Current Projects chat and miscellany

you haz?

stockpile!

i'm using 17, but haz 15 as a spare. Mr Dogsballs built the wheel for me and it still going strong, two years later.

are you still using the same sprocket? how much riding do you do?

i change bikes from time to time, not sure how many miles this sprocket has done, it still looks good though.

Nice, got my stolen fixed gear back!

Nice indeed!

I've had a stolen bike given back to me before. It was a tearful reunion.

^ you just quoted a post from 2008.
Dammit, it looks like you've lowered your stem but managed to raise your bars?

I just suck at taking photographs- the hoods are pretty much exactly where they were, but as the Ergonova bars have a very flat top section the stem had to come down to maintain the hood height, if that makes sense.

With the previous bars there was some drop from the clamp to the hood, hence the inch of spacers below the stem.

I'm going to experiment with this arrangement, and see how I get on with it- I've got a pair of High-Mod forks from a Super Six to go on, and they'll have their steerer cut down to the correct height, getting rid of the "Brixton" of spacers I currently have.

Built my first ever wheel today

Converted XT hub laced with Halo spokes to a Aerowarrior rim. No more dethreading hubs for me!

Out of interest, having never built a wheel and wanting to learn, what sort of torque are the spokes under? Think I'd do a similar build for first wheel too, as want a new fixed rear wheel for my MTB, so all I'd need is 35mm of spacers. Unless anyone knows of a cheaper 135mm fixed rear hub?

If I try to go light-touring on my first set of self-built wheels*, will I end up in a heap at the side of the road with a bike, two rims and a load of spokes scattered everywhere?

*I did build a front wheel once when I was taking apart an old wheel for the hub, just to practice, but I never rode on it.

AngelD, remember you might need a longer axle to fit a 135mm rear end, too.

AngelD, remember you might need a longer axle to fit a 135mm rear end, too.

Ah, true. Might be better to use a 9mm instead of QR hub then instead.
Something like this, that multiple options from 20mm to QR axle choice - http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=343

Out of interest, having never built a wheel and wanting to learn, what sort of torque are the spokes under?

Tension, not torque. Torque = twisting force. (You don't want the spokes to be twisted at all as they will untwist when the wheel is ridden and the tension will drop and the wheel will go out of true.)

On a track wheel (i.e., non-dished) you generally want the spokes to be at between 110-130 kgf, and as even as possible. It depends on what the rim can handle but I generally build to 130. I think MTB wheels are usually built to similar tension even thought the spokes are shorter.

I recommend Roger Musson's e-book on wheelbuilding: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

^Another recommendation for that ebook, it is the best one.

I finished the boy project last night. Some crimes have been committed, some cable ties are involved.

It's a bit big for him, and the hoods are a bit of a stretch, so I fitted a pair of cross-top levers.

Tension, not torque. Torque = twisting force. (You don't want the spokes to be twisted at all as they will untwist when the wheel is ridden and the tension will drop and the wheel will go out of true.)

On a track wheel (i.e., non-dished) you generally want the spokes to be at between 110-130 kgf, and as even as possible. It depends on what the rim can handle but I generally build to 130. I think MTB wheels are usually built to similar tension even thought the spokes are shorter.

I recommend Roger Musson's e-book on wheelbuilding: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

I suppose its the nipples which are under torque the same way a bolt would be?

Interesting, thanks for the link, wheel building and frame building are two things I really wanna try. But as frame building requires expensive equipment, suitable space I don't currently have and at least an introduction into how things work, wheel building will work for now.

^Another recommendation for that ebook, it is the best one.

I finished the boy project last night. Some crimes have been committed, some cable ties are involved.

It's a bit big for him, and the hoods are a bit of a stretch, so I fitted a pair of cross-top levers.

Cheers for another recommendation!
And congrats on the build, that looks sweet. Lucky kid you got there.

36x18, that is immense. I can only imagine how quick that thing will feel if your lad is anyway used to modern kids bikes.
The sort of bike that could get him hooked for life.

Looks great too.

A bit similar to mine, well its a rigid MTB with discs, but nicer, more stealthy!
What frame is it, is it ali or steel? Any idea of total weight? And out of interest, what gearing are you using for what intended purpose?

I suppose its the nipples which are under torque the same way a bolt would be?

Interesting, thanks for the link, wheel building and frame building are two things I really wanna try. But as frame building requires expensive equipment, suitable space I don't currently have and at least an introduction into how things work, wheel building will work for now.

I think you're getting slightly confused - you apply torque to a bolt or a spoke nipple in order to turn it but it's not under a twisting force any more once you stop applying that force. The potential energy, (that is, the stored force) in the wheel is due to the threads of the nipples that are engaged with the threads in the spokes pulling the spoke lengthways against the elbow (or flat head in a straight pull spoke) in the hub flange at the other end, thus tensioning it.

Torque = twisting force, not pulling force.

Anyway. Wheel building is very satisfying. Take your time and be patient with it and it will all turn out well.

Its a Handsomedog Talisman, Steel. I have no scales but would guestimate about 20-22lb ish.

Running 36/16 and is to be used when out riding with my daughter through the local plantations and general winter offroad fun.

Its snowing on the mountain today so we'll see how it fairs at the weekend.

I think the point about the torque applied in a wheelbuild is that it's incidental.

You'll have whatever torque is necessary on each nipple to get a round and true wheel, with fairly even spoke tension.

In some of my early wheels I was a bit crap at truing and nervous about the strength of the wheel. As a result nips got wound up to a really high tension, to the point where I worried about rounding off the nipples. For this reason I think it's best to use brass rather than alloy nips on your 1st build.

Also remember to do small turn (of the nipple) back to release twist in the spoke each time you come to it.

Guys, can I get your thoughts on this?

I am torn between putting a C record groupset on it and going all vintage (downtube shifters etc.) or going like this and putting 9 speed titanium on it. Do the carbon shifters fit ok? I know its probably not period. The brown saddle is just as a prop to work out seatpost height but it should be replaced by a white rolls or regal. White bar tape I think should be appropriate. Also does the seatpost look right? Its a record titanium one, and to me it just looks a bit too round. I was thinking the original C record seatpost would look better? I'm just not sure...

Build it how you want it.

The bike looks good Andy w.
I plan to escape to Dartmoor and Exemoor next week on the mtb. It can't come soon enough.

^^I like it but think I'm with you on the "unsure about the carbon levers" part... they look slightly out of place I suppose. Especially if you do go white bar tape