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• #42827
.
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• #42828
My vintage carcass could do with some 'modern performance'.
checks dodgey online chemist
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• #42829
^ +1
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• #42830
Wooden tyre sidewalls?
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• #42831
Wooden tyre sidewalls?
Its very basic natural rubber. They have even removed the resin from the tree.
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• #42832
I've recently bought this lovely late 80's early 90's (i still have to contact the builder to be sure) proper Dutch Van Tuyl, made of Columbus TSX tubing. the dimensions are perfect, as if it was made for me!
It has a full (3rd i'm guessing) C-record groupset on it which is in lovely condition!
The only "weird" thing is the rear mech. It's an early record (from '91 i think) I can't really place this with the rest of the group. The whole group needs a proper cleaning though (it has been in a barn for about 15 years)The frameset also needs a lot of love. It's still straight as an arrow but the rear chainstays and the ff are completely pitted. There is also some rust on the rest of the bike.
I'm really looking forward to bring it back to it's original shiny state!
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• #42833
my brooks turned up. Ordered some oil to break it in quicker cos the leather is hard as a rock. It's a very different feel to my last saddle, wider so my thighs touch the edges more, and way less comfortable at the front, but on the back it is really comfy. I'm sliding around a fair amount though, any way to minimise this? Will it become less of an issue once it's broken in?
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• #42834
The leather is meant to be hard I think - it shouldn't be soft. I haven't really had to break mine in, I've proofed it once (following the instructions that came with it) and it's been a-ok since. I'm not sure how you know when it needs proofing again. I don't really slide around on it now, certainly a lot less now than when it was brand new, it was well slippery at first.
What model did you go for? I got a team pro at first (best looking they do imo) but didn't get on with it - there wasn't enough flat area at the back so I was either sitting on the rivets or too far forward on the narrower bit, so sold it and got a swift, which I get on with just fine.
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• #42835
I've nudged the Regal on my commuter forward a smidge and now it's much less comfortable on the front for a reason that I cannot understand. Grr.
Anyway, it'll be swapped off to the new Bob in about a month, started gathering a few bits for that, going to try a Stronglight 2000 chainset (only £60 from PX) to up the stiffness a bit over the bargain basement Mygal. Might eventually get 75s but I keep reminding myself it's only the commuter... I do have to lock it up now and again...
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• #42836
Stronglight chainset is an absolute bargain at that price, I really like it.
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• #42837
Cool, good to hear a recommendation for it. Think they still have some at that price as long as you don't mind riding 170s (or 165s with an ugly black chainring).
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• #42838
I have the black chainring :( racist!
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• #42839
Hah, it's less the black and more the ugly type on it. I am a typist.
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• #42840
my brooks turned up. Ordered some oil to break it in quicker cos the leather is hard as a rock. It's a very different feel to my last saddle, wider so my thighs touch the edges more, and way less comfortable at the front, but on the back it is really comfy. I'm sliding around a fair amount though, any way to minimise this? Will it become less of an issue once it's broken in?
HTFU
Lack comfort in unbroken in leather saddles is vastly over exaggerated IMHO
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• #42841
New paint job on my beater, just a rattle can thing
Not sure i like it, it didn't turn out how i would of liked
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• #42842
Looks better, beater at the end of the day pal. Get some grips/tape and it will be neat.
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• #42843
maybe it will grow on me
also getting new pedals, straps, seat post(or sand it down to silver) and maybe a basket if i can get my hands on one
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• #42844
(need to modified the surly canti holder as it's too long, hence the temporary one).
How much did you pay to hav the canti mounts and cable guides put on, and can you send me the contacy details of the guy who did it.....
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• #42845
if i had a penny for every time some one talked about eds bike...
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• #42846
The leather is meant to be hard I think - it shouldn't be soft. I haven't really had to break mine in, I've proofed it once (following the instructions that came with it) and it's been a-ok since. I'm not sure how you know when it needs proofing again. I don't really slide around on it now, certainly a lot less now than when it was brand new, it was well slippery at first.
What model did you go for? I got a team pro at first (best looking they do imo) but didn't get on with it - there wasn't enough flat area at the back so I was either sitting on the rivets or too far forward on the narrower bit, so sold it and got a swift, which I get on with just fine.
I got the standard B17. I think I might have to swap for a flatter one, but I'll see after riding it for a bit. I don't get on with saddles with much of a slope on the back, they push me off the front so the nose puts pressure where it shouldn't.
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• #42847
if i had a penny for every time some one talked about eds bike...
why you and not Ed, its his bike, innit??
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• #42848
HTFU
Lack comfort in unbroken in leather saddles is vastly over exaggerated IMHO
Sitting on a Brooks- it's like sitting on an un-planed 2'X4'.
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• #42849
I got the standard B17. I think I might have to swap for a flatter one, but I'll see after riding it for a bit. I don't get on with saddles with much of a slope on the back, they push me off the front so the nose puts pressure where it shouldn't.
I've got a b17 champion special, I though i'd try it for a week and if i didn't get on with it i'd do a coat of Neatsfoot oil and try again, after that week i didn't even think about the saddle when i was on the bike.
took a bit of tweaking to the get the position right though -
• #42850
The correct position for the B17 being in the bin?
Overused term of the week?