Current Projects chat and miscellany

I did worry about that. Which bit of the tyre label is the bit to line up to?! We should be told.

dummy levers, how do they work then?
i.e. how do you stop the one that isn't connected to a brake flapping away pointlessly?

its not a lever... it's a dummy hood. There's a little hook thing (max unkindly called a 'flid lever') which I think just helps hold your grip when you get forward out of the saddle. It doesn't move/pivot. However something inside it rattled subtly like a mutherfucka till I sprayed shit loads of spraymount in there.

Totally naff idea.

Just a thought.

Sarcasm.

Just a thought.

Point taken. Glad you didn't use a winky, so all good.

There's something really horrible about the Reynolds 853 sticker. Reynolds have done themselves a serious disservice by losing the classic font which they're famous for.

it's the nicest reynolds sticker (imhco)

Lovely Yates Skully. Looks like a bike you could ride a lot of miles on

its not a lever... it's a dummy hood. There's a little hook thing (max unkindly called a 'flid lever') which I think just helps hold your grip when you get forward out of the saddle. It doesn't move/pivot. However something inside it rattled subtly like a mutherfucka till I sprayed shit loads of spraymount in there.

like this:
*Slide back the rubber hood cover from the front/top/pointy part.
This will reveal the top of the plastic decorative shroud.

*Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the top of the
shroud down and out from under the top of the lever body. This will
snap out with very little effort.

*Once the shroud is off, you'll see a tiny setscrew just below the
pivot pin. It's either 2 mm or 2.5, I forget which. This setscrew
may be hard to turn, it's Loctited in place. Remove the setscrew.

*Push the pivot pin out to one side and all of the moveable parts
will come right out.

*Snap the shroud back in place, and replace the rubber hood. You're done!
?

sheldon

With those decals it looks like bubble writing. Tubing stickers are nice when they're understated.

that is true, maybe reynolds think people want to flaunt their grade.
higher steel = bigger sticker.

when folks have 501, where did the 30 go? thats what I always wonder

that is true, maybe reynolds think people want to flaunt their grade.
higher steel = bigger sticker.

'Calm down now ladies, yes it is 853!'

There's something really horrible about the Reynolds 853 sticker. Reynolds have done themselves a serious disservice by losing the classic font which they're famous for.

I used to think this. Then I had a bike built that had it attached, to denote the tubing used to build the frame (you know this, of course). Now it can do no wrong for me. Go figure.

like this:
*Slide back the rubber hood cover from the front/top/pointy part.
This will reveal the top of the plastic decorative shroud.

*Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the top of the
shroud down and out from under the top of the lever body. This will
snap out with very little effort.

*Once the shroud is off, you'll see a tiny setscrew just below the
pivot pin. It's either 2 mm or 2.5, I forget which. This setscrew
may be hard to turn, it's Loctited in place. Remove the setscrew.

*Push the pivot pin out to one side and all of the moveable parts
will come right out.

*Snap the shroud back in place, and replace the rubber hood. You're done!
?

sheldon

Oooh you clever dude. I figured it was a remnant of the body as used for a brake, but I had little joy in the two minutes I spent trying to pop the body open. So I resorted to a sticky thing.

now clear tyres would need clear inner tubes surely

And then glass rims and spokes for the complete see through wheel

My current project. FFS. I bet it doesn't even work.

And then glass rims and spokes for the complete see through wheel

I've seen people in Shoreditch with see-through rear brakes on their SS

My current project. FFS. I bet it doesn't even work.

aahh. Yeah. I need to do this. Bollocks.

it won't. i've tried the curing an allen key with epoxy on a rounded out bolt. very frustrating.

if anyone is resorting to the drill, shout me, as i need to do this as well.

I think I'm going to try a tiny file to get the allen hole true again. The problem isn't really rounding (yet) with mine, the hole's sort of got smaller being scraped on the road.

very tasteful skully, you must be a happy man. do you have a rack to go on the back? think you've got the bosses for it..?

apart from that 531 M-trax last thursday, this is latest project.
Just finished, sold the red frame to Lucas,(yeah it was too small) swapped all components to the blue Coppi, loving the feel of this set up with new randonneur bars.
spot the deliberate mistake?

it won't.

OH FFS

I think I'm going to try a tiny file to get the allen hole true again. The problem isn't really rounding (yet) with mine, the hole's sort of got smaller being scraped on the road.

The ones I DID manage to get out were like this so I wiggled a smaller allen key inside to open them up. The cleats sparked when they loosened! More grease next time...

^yep, this is actually working for me, using a slightly too small imperial one to flatten out the allen shape. Just done it. No grease! Arrgh. I better do that before they seize in for ever.

@t-4003
Yep, not really bothered to set up the rack yet, still trying to sort out the specific bolt arrangement I need (I want long ones so the muddies go on the back of the bolt nearer the wheel, held on with a nut)... will do for winter though when I carry more clothing around and am becoming less and less keen on bags on my body. Got me a fancy schmancy one from tubus, the really paired down one. Airy or something.