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  • I’d probably start with just a frame anyway. Have you tried SRAM hydro? The levers look a bit tall, wondering how they fit in the hand. Especially wondering how they work for small hands (not saying you have that experience)

  • Got a lot of smaller female friends racing cross at a moderately high level on them without complaint. The system works well.

  • V2 of my bike built. I rent a road bike from Rapha rather than spending money on one so use that to justify wasting my money on this. Been through various iterations with drop bars, bull horns, 23mm tyres etc. Just built this version. 32mm Panaracer tyre @ the rear, 28mm at the front (can’t fit any more), 780mm carbon downhill bars and jag wire compressionless brakes. It’s absolutely the best form it’s been in. Comfortable, can go on gravel now which is fun. Next step is probably wasting money on SRAM Omniums but need to work out a way to justify them. Will also desticker completely when I can be bothered. Any thoughts or improvement points on bike let me know!!


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  • Desticker the rims & level saddle, otherwise I really like it!

  • Don't desticker the frameset. I've always struggled to justify the cost of track cranks, if yours work they're probably good enough. Bike is nice!

  • Thanks - saddle put on in a rush. Will post update when se stickered

  • Frameset is a weird one. Got it off eBay. Whoever had it before me stuck Fulmar stickers on (I think anyway). They don’t appear to sell motorbikes so find it a bit weird

  • Hoping that I can use this time fork as it is and that I don't have to cut and extend the steerer.

    It threads on by two threads on the locknut, but the small spacer that sits between the two nuts wont fit, and the fork doesnt have a crown race fitted, so i think it'll need fettling. :( Piegas have gone on as well as my beater flite too


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  • This sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

  • Yeah, in its current state, yes.

    The fork that I have has an alu steerer, and many a person on here has cut the threads off of a shorter fork and then welded a longer bit of tube to the end. I'd give it to my dad to sort as hes a welder/fabricator by trade.

  • You could just extend it and go for 1" ahead.

  • That'd be the plan if I did extend it :p

  • I have a 1" Time with 20 cm (carbon) steerer I want to sell/swap for 1" steel (I can't believe yours is alu as it's threaded).

    It's one of the early with carbon steerers (the ones you had to hammer a star nut in because expanders didn't exist back then...)

  • Project "Surface Rust". The photos flatter it, there really isn't even a square inch of decent paint on it, but it's straight and dent free so just need to figure out a paint scheme and get cracking. Got plenty of drivetrain and finishing kit and some nice 29" hoops so just need a fork and probably a 2 degree slackset for the build.

  • Drop me a PM with some photos man, I'd be happy to have a look.

  • Got the frame back yesterday from lbs, put some bits together. I went for 23mm tires, looking at the clearance could have gone for 25.


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  • I think these tires were a good choice. Anything bigger + wet tarmac and you’d jeopardize your new paint!!

  • I've found that 25C Veloflex fit like 23Cs. Lovely tyres.

  • I agree, they're super narrow. I measured them with calipers once... But can't remember what the width was

  • Did post this in mechanics and fixing but thought i'd cheekily ask here as well:
    anyone had issues with disc calliper (spyre) - spoke clearance? if so, how did you solve it?

  • Not sure if that will work. Tightening the quill won't compress the headset. Or is there a quill tightening bolt and then a compression above that?

  • So, so nice.

    But isn’t having the shifter mounted on a car door a bit impractical?

  • : )

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted by Avatar for emoxfag @emoxfag

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