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  • Well this route was chosen by the mechanic and I trust his judgement.

    Also for me I don't really like mismatching, especially with a chain, plus everything seems to be in working order for now so let's see if any fuck up happens after a few promuting sessions


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  • And lose my bling power?

    NEVER!!!

  • Most shops don't stock them but you can buy a single halflink from SJS and elsewhere. I'm not sure if you could just use one of the spare links from that halflink chain.

  • half chain = anti.
    gold chain = mega anti.
    cumon @HoKe sor ih aht

  • Picked one up from london cycle workshop west just today.
    Have kmc 1/8 and 3/32" in stock.
    Made me happy didn't schlep to condor. #2007

  • No brakes on the sweet fixie. That's why I was looking at disc specific rims. Thanks for your help.

    Oops, looks like I was being too subtle. I guessed your motivation correctly, but I was steering you towards the A319 to make you think again, rather than just coming right out with it and saying that riding brakeless on the road makes you, well, I would say a cunt but that's too much of term of endearment on here and you might get the wrong end of the stick again. Consider this; do you think you're a better rider than Baby Varno?

  • Didn't someone on here recently say that you can use 10 speed shimano mtb stuff with 9 speed road stuff... or something along those lines.

    I can't remember and the search isn't throwing anything up.

  • yes you can !
    zoom on it DSC06782

  • Likely it's 10 speed road shifters with 9 speed MTB rear mech

  • Cheers! Found it.

    As is 6700, and while both 6600 and 6700 (and any other 10 speed Shimano road shifters) will work with a 9 speed MTB mech, as the cable pull ratios are the same, neither will work with a 10 speed MTB mech, which has a different pull ratio.

  • I've no idea who Baby Varno is.. And I don't want to start an argument about brakes, but thanks for your help!

  • Finally finished my Corsa Extra (Team Stuttgart) today. Picked up an "Eddy Merckx" pantographed stem to put on it and finished it. Sorry for the bad picture but my wife is on a short holiday and took the camera. So had to use the laptop for this one.

  • How DARE you!

  • Yeah, 6600 and 6700 (and presumably 5600) play well with 9 speed MTB. My post above shows my 1x10 with 6600 and a 9 speed XT mech.

    The shadow mechs don't work because of cable pull, but anything 9 speed is meant to be fine.

    I'm using an m750 on an 11-36 cassette and it's all good!

  • That half link on his Carrera.

  • There are plenty of BMX chains that come with a single half link at one end

  • Yes!

    I see it now @Gaston_Fr

  • I will probably end up upgrading parts

    B E A T E R HO! B E A T E R!

  • Evening all. I've got a mild headset dilemma...

    The diy cargo frankenbike needed the front headset servicing and the bottom bearing cage had disintegrated. I bought what looked right, 5/32 bearing cages, however on fitting it has come up to small and allows play in the fork. I've looked online and it looks like a 3/16 might do the trick. Is this another size for 1 inch threaded headsets? I've no idea what the fraction is referring too and Sheldon hasn't helped...

  • Anyone know how I can tell if I have a short or medium cage 5800 RD? Looking to run 52/36 11-32 for upcoming Alps trip (replacing 11-28 so I have a get out gear!)

  • Unless @Alb knows what comes stock on a Zero 3 in the RD dept and if it will take 11-32?

  • I think I had a similar problem with an old Peugeot headset. I just took the bearings out of the cage, coated the race in grease and put them in loose with a couple extra to fill out the space from the missing cage. Now runs buttery smooth.

    Hope that's some kind of help.

  • I've no idea what the fraction is referring too and Sheldon hasn't helped...

    The fraction is the ball diameter in inches. As @user47620 says, you can use a greater number of loose balls rather than a caged set, in fact for a headset which just reciprocates rather than rotating at high speed, loose balls are actually better, manufacturers just use cages to make assembly easier. To get the correct number of balls, just fill up the cup with balls until you can't get any more in, then remove one. Use a light coating of grease to get the balls to stick in the cups in the right place, i.e. all of them actually touching the race rather than just swimming in grease, and pipe a nice bead of extra grease onto the cones when it comes to final assembly.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted by Avatar for emoxfag @emoxfag

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