Crank Removal

freezing 77 is spot on- the stripped threads are where, I assume, a previous owner has attempted and failed to remove the crank with a crank puller. Looks like I can leave them on after all and regularly check tightness of the crank bolt. CREDIT-CRUNCH WIN!!

Don't panic, the crank bolts screw into the bottom bracket axle which then holds the lot together. You should be able to get the ring off without removing the crank. If not, screw the crank bolts back in but loose and go for a quick but careful spin away from traffic. The crank should effectively works it's way loose but it may damage the tapers. Only do this as a last resort...

Have this happen periodically at work. Two options when you do come to removing the offending crank.

A. Find a shop with a suitable tap and puller, and get them to cut some new oversize threads.

B. As i did recently, quicker and easier. Get one of these..

http://www.avenue35.co.uk/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=13466

Then remove your chainring. Wedge the fork of the ball joint separator between the B/B cup and the back of the crank with a few persuasive taps from the proverbial hammer.

Then heat the crank with a blowtorch for a good 5 mins. Finally once the alloy has heated nicely hit the ball joint separator with good force and the crank should just "fall off".

This excat same thing has happened to my Messenger cranks and I've been using them for the last 6 months with no dramas. Just need a bit of brute force to get them off, that ball joint seperator looks the trick.

Trust me talking it up! Had to do this a couple of hours ago, worked a treat again.

try these guys: http://www.highpath.net/cycles/special/repairs.html

good luck!

Have this happen periodically at work. Two options when you do come to removing the offending crank.

A. Find a shop with a suitable tap and puller, and get them to cut some new oversize threads.

B. As i did recently, quicker and easier. Get one of these..

http://www.avenue35.co.uk/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=13466

Then remove your chainring. Wedge the fork of the ball joint separator between the B/B cup and the back of the crank with a few persuasive taps from the proverbial hammer.

Then heat the crank with a blowtorch for a good 5 mins. Finally once the alloy has heated nicely hit the ball joint separator with good force and the crank should just "fall off".

Ive used this and found it works as well to remove a crank with the same problem.

/attachments/7993

I feel a bit ashamed I know exactly how that happend on your crank....... Extractors come with a button for other styles of cranks, yours and mine require the button be removed and I failed to do so once.

1 Attachment

The thread on my old crank arms has been worn down over time so it's now stuck on my bb. Can anyone recommend a good way of removing the arm without damaging the bb and preferably without needing to take it into a shop and have to pay a load to get it removed? I've heard there is a way

Thanks

ball joint remover (fork like one) / three legged puller / angle grinder.

Hammer and chisel*

*I do not endorse this approach.

WD40 and then tap it off with a rubber mallet. Simples.

Easiest way apparently is to ride it. Mechanic told me this. I'd ride slow.

Thanks everyone for the help, especially hippy (I think that'll be the last chance option). I'll give it a go!

Easiest way apparently is to ride it. Mechanic told me this. I'd ride slow.

Yup, it's called the horatio... ;]

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread22845.html#post724393

Thanks, I eventually managed to pain stakingly thread the crank puller on and get it off

.......those horatio jobbies look like contraptions from a saw film

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread22845.html#post724393

Yup dude, check that thread - you're in the wrong forum, and this has been covered a bajillion times.

UTFS!!!!!!

Easiest way apparently is to ride it. Mechanic told me this. I'd ride slow.

that makes a lot of sense cranks come loose even when the crank bolts have been given a full tightening with a torque wrench how can they resist when there are no bolts !

Yup, it's called the horatio... ;]

Yup. That's what my intention was all along.

THREAD HIJACK

Sorry guys but as I can't make a new thread I've semi-hijacked this one.
My question is about cranks though!

I've got an old (think retirement-home) bike which I'm stripping down and SSing. I'm a bit of a nub and I was wondering what peoples advice would be to remove this pin. It's pretty solid – WD40 and a large hammer? Am I even going in the right direction? (I presume I remove this to take off the crank arm then unscrew the nut to slide out the whole shaft?)

Also do these headset parts look removable to you? They're pretty stuck as well - more WD40?

Thanks guys - sorry for the complete incompitence.

To take out cottered cranks pins soak for a very long time with WD-40 (like overnight) then use a RUBBER hammer, or a piece of softwood like pine or summat and tap gently until they move. don't hammer them directly with a metal hammer or punch, they will deform, and will then be nearly impossible to get out without cutting them. You should hammer on the threaded end BTW, if you want to get them off.

If they don't shift you can drill a small hole throught the cotter pin. A combination of heat and the drilling never fails for me. Also blowtorch heat works a treat. Sheldon has some chat as well. http://sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html

Those headset cups will pop off with mallet and screwdriver or whatever your chosen implement is.

+1 to above.

To clarify - headset cups are held on by friction and friction alone. To remove them, use a hammer.

Also for future reference, utfs.

Also for future reference, utfs.

+1