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• #23702
The EF one is 🤌
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• #23703
Hey, I'm good, just in a job and life that doesn't seem to have as much free time as I used to...... hopefully just a phase :)
3 Attachments
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• #23704
This is one of my favourite photos from a recent work trip to Boston.
Minolta Hi-Matic F on basic Kodak Gold 200
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• #23705
The level of photography on this forum is nuts. I've just shot through my first few rolls of film, in part inspired by shots on here, and will be looking to get them developed soon. Looking forward to feeling incredibly inadequate.
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• #23706
Kodak Gold 200 (SMC Pentax 30mm)
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• #23707
Looking forward to seeing them!
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• #23708
Kodak Portra 800 (SMC Pentax 30mm)
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• #23709
I'm good, just in a job and life that doesn't seem to have as much free time as I used to..
..good to hear - hope to see more pictures of yours again sometime soon 👍
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• #23710
Kodak Gold 200 (forgot what camera / lens)
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• #23711
I’m sure it’s been asked already but what Pentax are you using with the SMC lenses?
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• #23712
Two ME's and a ME Super.
There's other great models as well ..but a ME was the first Pentax SLR that I used back in the day (and I loved it on first sight), so since then all the others felt too big or "uncomfortable".
Also aperture priority and just having the little LED's next to the shutter speeds is perfect for me.
2 Attachments
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• #23713
Fuji Superia 200 (SMC Pentax 30mm)
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• #23714
Massive newbie question, but for my own clarity, I've always assumed 'developing your film' is the process of taking the negatives and turning them into a print of a photo. But, reading around, it appears 'developing' is the process of turning the film into an image that is no longer sensitive to light?
You can then use something like a film scanner to digitise it yourself? Predictable follow up question - are these film scanners any good?
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• #23715
'developing' is the process of turning the film into an image that is no longer sensitive to light?
Basically, yes - here's a link that might clear up a lot of questions -
https://medium.com/@briangreenbergrpl/how-does-film-development-actually-work-b729154d532Scanners (you can use at home with your computer) range from pretty shit to quite decent, the tl;dr is:
you need to spend a couple hundred on a proper scanner (and proper scanning software) to make it worthwhile, it's a tedious process - so most people let a lab do it that has even better scanners and skilled people working those machines (hopefully) 🙂 -
• #23716
Fuji Superia 200 (SMC Pentax 30mm)
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• #23717
For me,
Developing = taking film from being sensitive to light to non light sensitive negatives.
Printing = making enlargements from negatives.
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• #23719
And so pushing and pulling happens at the development stage, not the printing stage?
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• #23720
Well you can control exposure and development of negatives but you can also control the exposure of a print.
What you can’t do is turn a poorly exposed negative into a perfect print.*
If it’s an underexposed negative with zero shadow detail no adjustment of the print exposure is going to bring that back.*there are tricks but they are not able to work miracles
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• #23721
Instead of using scanners I'd use, and I'm using, one of these paired with a digital camera and a macro lens.
JJC ES-2 Film Digitizing Adapter with 6500K USB LED Light Set, 35mm Negative Film Copying Scanner for Canon Sony Nikon Macro Lens, Convert Negatives to Digital JPEG https://amzn.eu/d/02paESa8
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• #23722
Kodak Portra 400 (SMC Pentax 30mm)
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• #23723
Got the film back from the Belgium trip with the XA2 and Portra 400 as recommended, will pop a few in here that I like.
Stella Artois.
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• #23724
The Bikes.
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• #23725
The Velodrome.
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Fuji Superia 200 (SMC Pentax 30mm)