Analog film photography and cameras

Oooooh added to 'watch later'. Must order a copy of Taschen's Jazz Life. Been meaning to do that for a while.

Tri-X at 1600

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Contrast in this is lovely, makes me wanna shoot more b&w

How are y'all scanning in your negatives? I shot a roll of long expired b&w film and had it developed at Bristol cameras (well worth sending to from London in my experience) and they said that the scanner couldn't identify emulsion in the negatives and so couldn't be scanned in. Anyone got any suggestions on how I could try and save the roll?

Just out of interest, what is it about Bristol Cameras that you rate? (I go to Photographique here - can’t remember if I’ve used BC before)

scanner couldn't identify emulsion in the negatives and so couldn't be scanned

lol

got any suggestions

use a different lab, apparently they're idiots

Ahah, this one is really good.

That is literally ‘computer says no’.

Give the negs to someone (anyone) else.

Anyone got a decent 4 blade enlarging easel to sell?

Page 728 has some bangers.

Way cheaper than anyone else I've used and they've always been on point with developing in the past, until now that is, this was one of 8 rolls I sent in that batch and every other one was great

Didn't know that this isn't a real issue though so will try and get that scanned in elsewhere, they refunded it though so might be a nice free developing if all works out

Cheers, can certainly get away with high contrast/ lack of shadow detail more in B&W. Or more probably I'm just shit with colour

Hello everyone!

So I've recently purchased my first medium format and totally missed the development of my first roll. I had no problem with the 35mm format but I made a lot of 'noob' mistakes with the 120 process, hum.

Here's some pics :

• Kodak HC 110, dilution B (1. 31) for one 35mm roll. The thing is with this dilution, the entire roll was not flooded in the developer. Moreover, I think using the same fixer since June (I developed 15 rolls) didn't help.
  
  

Which dilution (with the HC 110 developer) is optimum for developing a 6x7 roll? Which are the differences between the 35mm and 120mm process? Should I change my actual fixer? Thanks guys : )

You can do a clearing test on the fixer, check how long a piece of film takes to clear. It should be now more than 5 minutes.

You need to have the tank full enough that the while film is immersed, apart from that dilution and developer shouldn't matter as long as you follow the instructions.

Autofocus compact owners - advice needed. Experimenting with a Nikon Lite Touch and unsure when the camera actually focuses and fires the shutter.

On half press of the shutter the red LED momentarily lights to indicate focus lock, however the camera is silent. On full press it appears as though the camera moves the lens to focus, fires the shutter then winds the film. Difficult to tell when the shutter actually fires as it's silent (compared to how noisy the camera is otherwise). Would be easier if I could open the back to look at the shutter firing, but I've put a roll of film in it...

On half press of the shutter the red LED momentarily lights to indicate focus lock, however the camera is silent. On full press it appears as though the camera moves the lens to focus, fires the shutter then winds the film.

This is pretty standard procedure with AF compacts.
What was your question again?

I imagine it will be fine. Auto compacts often act weird. My Canon multi tele doesnt even open the front of the camera until you take a photo, it then extends the lens, focuses and takes the shot, then reverses everything. Focus and exposure arent carried out by the lens so what the lens sees before the shutter fires isnt important

doesnt even open the front of the camera until you take a photo, it then extends the lens, focuses and takes the shot, then reverses everything

Not used an af compact before so seemed a bit weird after using af SLRs that focus on half shutter press.
I don't have the steadiest hands in the world, especially with small/light cameras, so wanted to check to see when the shutter actually fires. Generally I'll need to keep the camera steady longer I guess ?

Yea, coming from an SLR it's a bit weird I agree.

You will figure out a way to hold those little & light things more steady; it's about resting your upper arms / elbows stadily on your torso, and a bit like cramping up your hands, concentrating on only moving that one finger that presses the shutter.
Well, you have to hold steady until you hear the motor advancing the film, basically.
: ]

This why compacts with snap-mode are gold dust.

Decent basic scanning software? Pref free but from researching it seems free and decent arent terms that overlap with high definition scanning :(

I'm probably over thinking it as I've not used a camera with shutter lag before. Running a roll of HP5 through it at the moment, as long as it's reasonably sharp and not too blurry from movement I'll be happy enough

FE2 turned up. Damn it’s nice. On a bus to Washington DC at the moment. Very excited to use it!

@Ste_s yeah - my Mju always used to get me in a similar way with this. If it was in a noisy environment, I wouldn’t always know whether the shutter had closed after opening...