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• #14402
This was my best from last night.
Ilford multigrade RC paper.
45 seconds exposure.
Cyan 0, Magenta 75 and Yellow 0.
Bit of dodging on the whales mouth and eye and 15 seconds burning in the sky.
1 Attachment
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• #14403
Looks good!
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• #14404
First time sending films off to filmdev. Sent first class Monday, what sort of turn around should I expect ?
Slightly paranoid they've been lost in the post -
• #14405
Nice. Needs to pop a little more, but may just be the digital photo on my screen. Is that the shore in the background? Maybe mask the sky to allow that to come out clearer through the dodge/burn.
Did the changing box arrive?
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• #14406
They usually dev and scan within two days.
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• #14407
The background is the hills on the other side of the Loch through the cloudy, the bottom edge is the shore.
I think the photo is lower contrast than the reality.
When I'm burning the sky i'm just exposing at the same contrast and masking off the Whale and shore with my hand. Maybe bump the contrast for that stage next time.....
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• #14408
I'd say do it the other way around, where the sky stays light grey-white and burn in the hills and whale a little more, dodging the teeth and eye to keep bright. That way you'll have a more defined three layers of contrast, where the point of interest is strong and deep and the fore/background fade in varying shades of grey to white
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• #14409
Ok, great shout.
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• #14410
My mju ii has a weird problem, when you press the shutter release it starts to take a picture, the lens adjusts, but then gets stuck out and only retracts when you attempt to close the cover.
Tried new battery - any other ideas?Like this:
https://vimeo.com/46934107
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• #14411
Probably something in the lens helical jamming, disassembly isn't really viable nor is repair cost. Try canned air (careful the mist doesn't come out first and into the lens assembly), and spray the fucker to free up any parts. Alternatively strap to a firework.
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• #14412
And don't forget the part where you fork out £120+ for a new one!
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• #14413
This is not an option.
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• #14414
Looks nice, fun shot.
It is quite low contrast, not sure I'd change that, just watch the sky doesn't fade too close to white (so there is difference in tone between the edge of the photo and white border).
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• #14415
Alternatively strap to a firework.
Then post pics plz
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• #14416
Thanks man, I'm going to try a few more iterations and see if I can improve it further!
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• #14417
Re: the 35TI. I fired the shutter a ton of times on the weekend and it seems to be a bit better. Still happens, but I found if I give it a whack on the base plate before taking a shot it doesn't double fire. Not ideal, but better then having it as a paperweight.
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• #14418
What to do with a Kodak Box Brownie ? Re-discovered from when I was young. I want to try it out, and I'll probably put a roll through it at some point.
Longer term though, I can't see myself using it that much (especially when I have a Mamiya C330 to put 120 film through).
620 film has died, so it'll mean re-spooling 120 film. It only takes eight exposures too making it expensive for film/developing.Anything I can do to reduce the hassle/ cost ? I guess cheapest B&W 120 film and develop myself ?
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• #14419
I need to scan some old photos and I cannot get my ancient Canon MP500 printer scanner to work with my Mac for love for money (well, the scanning bit, at least). Should I get a cheapish flatbed scanner (well south of £100, something like the Canon CanoScan LiDE 220) or would a combi printer-scanner for around the same price do just as well? Any reccos? Ta!
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• #14420
Ha nice, you might get some funny looks when you are whacking your camera between each shot
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• #14421
http://www.snapsphotoservices.com/ourshop/prod_5004017-620-RESPOOLED-ILFORD-HP5-BW-FILM.html then develop yourself? or send it back to them.
you probably won't want to use it often, but that's ok...
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• #14422
That's not too bad a price for them to re-spool 120. As you say, I'm probably not going to be using it that often. Have seen on Youtube some people using the 120 spool in the Brownie and using a 620 to feed it on to, may give that a go first.
On the subject of scanning, what can I use as mask for negatives on a flatbed scanner ? It's a Canon Pixma combi scanner/printer.
Do I need to buy something specific for the scanner, or are there generic masks out there ? -
• #14423
Kodak colourPlus - the new normal...
1 Attachment
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• #14424
Love this.
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• #14425
Grainy as hell. And I really like it.
Not sure what Ilford is like these days, been a while since I was in a darkroom but it was certainly the go-to paper for learning. I remember using graded stuff and struggling on RC but loving it FB.
Sometimes it's simple things like dev concentration or quality of the enlarger. If the lens is modern and clean it should give a good contrast but then again most of these enlargers are colour enlargers being used for b&w as multigrade filters. Bring back point light source. That shit was amazing.