First Fixed Ride

Try different foot retention.
Adjust your current set up.
Definitely practice though!

Getting into clips takes a bit of practice that's all, diagonal straps such as Restraps can be easier to get into, or you could try clipless.

Be careful resisting the pedals at first, try not to be "jerky", keep things smooth, when I first built a fixed bike I was trying to skid with my weight back over the saddle which gave me sore knees.

As for the aches, a couple of swigs of this before bed should help.

get spds its a lot easier to get in and out than clips and I've got a ruined knee but its defo got stronger riding fixed just take your time with it

I did my first fixed commute yesterday. It was great fun, the only downsides that I found were:

Getting into toe clips is much more difficult on a fixie. I was looking like a proper spanner away from lots of lights. Any hints (other than "practise!"

This is normal, the first few weeks you'll end up thinking it's witchcraft as there's no fucking way you'll ever get used to this clip and strap lark let alone clipless, but like you said, practise make perfect.

The only tips I can give you is to take it easy, get moving first then try and clip in, rather than clipping in while setting off (you can do this much later when you get the hang of it).

Never look down, go by feel, if you look down, you won't be in as much control as you like.

I ache like a sonofabitch. It seems to work lots of different muscles around my hips. That could just be me being overly tense due to the new bike though.

It shouldn't hurt, unless you're not using a brakes, in which case what the fuck are you thinking?

If not, what gearing are you using? it shouldn't be that aching especially when you use the front brakes (or both).

I'm hoping that this could actually be good for my ropey knee.

If you have a problem with your knees, I would recommend you to have two brakes.

Also it sound almost like your gearing is too high if you actually have to stand up every time you accelerate from a standstill.

If your muscles are hurting, you're probably trying to use your legs to slow down too much. Use your brakes until you build up the necessary muscles.

Blimey, feedback! Thanks folks.

I do ride clipless on my utility bike (26" wheels, 1x9, mudguards, panniers etc.), and I'm thinking about putting some SPDs on my fixie, but I'm quite keen to keep the clips as I'd like to be able to just jump on my fixie in normal shoes. I used to ride with clips on my MTB so I'm used to the action of getting into them, just not when the cranks are still turning!

As for my knees, I have 2 brakes (not being a crazy fool) and no interest in skidding, I was just interested in trying out using a bit of resistance to modulate my speed. It feels kind of odd and a bit jerky at the moment so I'll try to be smoother (thanks TM!).

I'm only pushing about 69 GI (42/16), but on short (165mm) cranks which makes things a few % stiffer. I probably don't have to stand up to get moving, but if I try to push that gear sitting down I can feel the strain above my kneecap, which is not a pleasant sensation.

Looking forward to the next commute!

Cranks length make no difference whatsoever.

69GI is about normal, but try a 17t if you find the current gearing a little bit hefty, best to avoid that strain than carry on.

Cranks length make no difference whatsoever.

It doesn't make a difference to the GI, but it does make a difference to the force required at the pedals to generate a given force at the cog (just like any lever).

Gear inches just doesn't take this into account and Sheldon specifically recommends a measure that does.

Again, still doesn't make any difference regardless of what he said, just one of those placebo effect.

It's only important if you're shorter than average.

Again, still doesn't make any difference.

Doesn't make any difference to what? A bike drivetrain is just a system of levers. Are you saying that changing the length of a lever doesn't change it?

Edit: or are you just saying that it doesn't make a measurable difference to knee problems?

Again, still doesn't make any difference regardless of what he said.

It's only important if you're shorter than average.

Shorter cranks = less leverage = more force required to turn the same gear.

Scobs I'm disappoint.

Shorter cranks = less leverage = more force required to turn the same gear.

Instead of trying to argue back, I decided it'd be easier to just search mdcc + crank length and luckily found this;

There is nothing to understand, just remember that it doesn't matter (unless you have very short legs) which length of Omniums you buy. I'd actually suggest getting 165s, just because that avoids argument if you go to one of the indoor velodromes which needlessly insist on them. Plenty of people here have a range of cranks lengths on different bikes and don't even notice when they switch. Reading left to right in my bike park at moment, I have 175, 170,175,170,175.170,165,175,177.5

Great work UTFS but that doesn't quantify your statement, it says it doesn't matter, not that it doesn't make a difference.

It does make a difference if you believed it does.

Great work UTFS but that doesn't quantify your statement, it says it doesn't matter, not that it doesn't make a difference.

this. just because its a minute difference that wont effect anyone other than pro riders doesn't mean it just doesn't exist.

It does make a difference if you believed it does.

You're just trolling now! It makes a difference whether you believe it does or not. All tester is saying is that most people (i.e., not the really short-legged) can happily ride on various crank lengths. That doesn't mean it makes no difference to the force they'll have to apply to them.

The reason I said it doesn't make any difference is because most of us usually try to get past the traffic light before it turn red on the junction of Clerkenwell Road and Gray Inn Road where such details is of the upmost importance.

does it make a difference in terms of cornering? I haven't ridden fixed before

Only if you lean.

gotcha

I probably don't have to stand up to get moving, but if I try to push that gear sitting down I can feel the strain above my kneecap, which is not a pleasant sensation.

It sounds like you probably know more than me about bikes, but this ^ sounds a bit like your saddle is too low...?

It sounds like you probably know more than me about bikes, but this ^ sounds a bit like your saddle is too low...?

It could be, I've tried to match the saddle height on my fixie to that of my other bikes, which I calculated using various formulae and then tweaked a bit. The problem is that for every source you can find which says that symptom X indicates that your saddle is too low, you can find another that says that symptom X indicates that your saddle is too high.

I do get bad ITB tension too though, so if you can offer any details on why I should raise my saddle a bit I'd be glad to hear them.

Don't calculate it.

One rule of thumb is that with the crank at its lowest point, your leg should be straight and foot almost parallel to the floor. Alternatively, it's really obvious when your saddle is too high because you'll feel your legs (particularly ankles) stretching at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Find that point, then lower the saddle slightly until you're no longer stretching.

Had to google ITB... No idea about that.

I just remember when my seatpost bolt snapped and I rode home with my saddle stupidly low, I really ached above the knees the next morning.

I think just make sure your knee is only slightly bent at the lowest pedal stroke.

^And what Brun just said.

Don't calculate it.

One rule of thumb is that with the crank at its lowest point, your leg should be straight and foot almost parallel to the floor. Alternatively, it's really obvious when your saddle is too high because you'll feel your legs (particularly ankles) stretching at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Find that point, then lower the saddle slightly until you're no longer stretching.

Cheers Brun. I don't want to get too deeply into it because (as I mentioned) there are loads of often conflicting methods of setting saddle height. What you've described is a calculation, albeit a rough and ready one (a heuristic maybe). People vary in their foot position, I tend to be "toes down" anyway, but I'll check that I'm not stretching too much.