Stripping / Painting / Coating / Cleaning Rims

What does this mean ?

I want to take the paint off without stratching the metal underneath. i guess the finishing grade sand papers would be best

I want to take the paint off without stratching the metal underneath. i guess the finishing grade sand papers would be best

Because it is anodised your (easy) options are pretty much limited to mechanical removal.

Sand sand sand ! I would go 400 upwards - say 400 - 800 - 1200 . . .

Define "Mechanical"

we talking industrial work tools or will an aggressive belt sander do the trick

Define "Mechanical"

Relating to physical forces and not chemical forces.

we talking industrial work tools or will an aggressive belt sander do the trick

Good god ! Nothing so Chuck Norris needed here, just sit down with a pile of sandpaper and some beer and stick the telly on (I recommend Police, Camera, Action) and get sanding, I always do these sorts of things by hand, it's not particularly difficult.

I tested the above on a set of Truvativ BMX cranks, black anodised
Sandpaper in the tight angles and small bits is a waste of time and finger numbing but i found Mr Muscles drain unblocker works a treat, it has sodium hydroxide but not in the aggressive amounts of over cleaner. you can paint it on/ or sit the part in a shallow bath and watch it foam, then dip it in how water to rinse.

Repeat this 5-6 times. it turns the paint back to a liquid but dries out quick so you end up with a tinted metal finish.
Scourer and fairy liquid gets this out and the shine comes through using the fine grade wet/dry paper. job done during a single John Wayne film.. fk me is he righteous!

Now do i polish before the clear coat, or just rub down? anyone tried polishing before coating??

more than anything, patience is what you need :)

just had to put my ore in

Thats not what Roy said.. he seemed to think it was dedication.... Dedication is what you need...

(i forgot to add it took 2 days to get the finish and i can't feel my left arm but thats by the by..)

Sandpaper or oven cleaner with sodium hydroxide.

Or just straight caustic soda (purer sodium hydroxide) . outside is good. Gloves are very good.

Tramps' deanodised a bunch of stuff using it while we were dissolving a stuck stem. Took about a week to make the stem go away, but the deanodising was way quicker..

see if you want a front brake.. how could you mask the braking surface? i assume that paint isn't the greatest for stopping.

if you're riding a fixed gear bicycle, it could be one way of forcing you to use the brake less?

you could try and mask it with tape carefully, may take age but the result would be beneficial, unless you fuck up the masking.

see if you want a front brake.. how could you mask the braking surface? i assume that paint isn't the greatest for stopping.

At each 'paint' stage (Primer, Top Coat, Clear Coat) . . .

Wait until dry, then place the wheel back into the forks - but with no tube or tyre

Turn your brake pads so they are perpendicular to the rim (to ensure they cover the whole of the braking surface).

Using double sided tape - stick a fine sandpaper (800 grit or higher) nice and flat against the brake pad - so that it contacts the brake surface when the levers are squeezed.

Spin the wheel whilst gently squeezing the levers (don't put too much force in, you are not trying to stop the wheel).

After you have removed the primer/top/clear - clean all the dust off and go on to the next stage.

genius! what a pro.

thanks ;)

mask up the machined surface and cut away excess tape -pretty easy as the machined surface is grooved, or just make a tool that attaches to the the edge of the rim and is a certain distance from the edge, which will cut a nice circle

or

ride the bike for a week or two and the paint will magically disappear

btw, tynans method relies on the wheel being built, so unless you are painting spokes there will be a lot of masking tape needed to cover other parts

just some ideas

Damn you flickwg, I would have got away with it if it wasn't for you pesky kids.

in all likelyhood this would be a complete wheel anyway - i'd already resigned myself to a lot of spoke masking!

thanks though, a makeshift tool seems like a cunning plan too..

Rather then start a new painting thread I thought I'd ask here:
Are the Plasti-kote 'super enamel' range of paints suitable for painting steel frames- Ive got a stripped down bare metal Claud Butler waiting for some colour and want a nice durable finish.

Thanks, Alex

just primer first for a longer lasting finish

Rather then start a new painting thread I thought I'd ask here:
Are the Plasti-kote 'super enamel' range of paints suitable for painting steel frames- Ive got a stripped down bare metal Claud Butler waiting for some colour and want a nice durable finish.

Thanks, Alex

You get a really tiny amount in a plastikote super enamel, would say its not enough for a frame, its also fairly expensive.

The finish is a bit weird too, very enamelly! which I suppose could be a good thing.

I find Halfords paints are pretty good, you get a lot in the can and they have lots of metallic/sparkle finishes too.

You get a really tiny amount in a plastikote super enamel, would say its enough for a frame, its also fairly expensive.

The finish is a bit weird too, very enamelly! which I suppose could be a good thing.

I find Halfords paints are pretty good, you get a lot in the can and they have lots of metallic/sparkle finishes too.

Halfords do the 400ml super enamel at 7 quid a can, and it seems that the Halfords own colour match stuff only comes is 300ml cans at 5.75 a can(?)
I'll take a trip to my local branch and see what they've got, I still haven't decided on a colour!

when we painted my carbon front rim we just painted the whole thing except the hub. the braking service has just scrubbed back perfectly so no need for masking!! worked well for me with no probs and looks the nuts!!

I didn't want to start a new thread so hopefully this will get noticed. I'm currently eyeing up a carbon composite wheel but it is already painted. If I applied something like Nitromors to the wheel will I ruin the composite? Is the paint stripper too strong? I don't want to purchase the wheel and then potentially destroy it before getting to ride it.

Thanks.

i wouldn't risk it, due to the fact that it could react with the epoxy, so could ruin the wheel

^agreed. why strip it? you could just key the surface and paint over existing colour

does it weigh too much with the paint?

Dear Mr Tynan sir,

I want to spray paint a frame I got for free (I don't think it is worth the Armourtex treatment). Can I follow your instructions for this job, too? Will it work?