Turbo Trainer Advice

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  • ^ That looks a bit like the LeMond trainer.

  • But with massive scope for pc integration- and it doesn't (apparently) sound like a Harrier jump jet in a stable hover in your living room.

  • ^^ Which of course is also on there.

  • But with massive scope for pc integration- and it doesn't (apparently) sound like a Harrier jump jet in a stable hover in your living room.

    Yes, I've heard that on youtube.

  • Actually I think it looks a lot nicer than the LeMond.

    Want!

  • If i were you I'd get a Cycleops Fluid 2. It'll do everything you need.
    Anything else is overkill.

    Where are you based in london?

    Based in Aalesund Norway. Which is part of the problem.

    Just googled fluid trainers, read around (including your hill triaining advice), and came to the conclusion that the Fluid 2, is the best option, and is the same price as the Tacx models I mentioned.

    Should have just listened to you at the start :)

    Pretending for a second that I'm an idiot cough. Do you just up speed, shift up the cassette, and your in hill hell?

    I used to suspect; now I know for certain.
    Having some numbers to focus on during intervals is good though.

    I did roller training all winter watching Timbersports. This led to a worrying man crush on the kiwi champ though.

  • Mmmmmm, timber!

  • BEHOLD!

    http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/03/fitness-trainer-review.html

    Looked at something like that. As I only have carbon wheels for the roadie, and dont really want to fit a turbo tyre (so the bike is ready to use if family duties suddenly release me). It seemed a good idea.

    Then I realised I'd need a new bike with Shimano, and it suddenly looked less attractive.

    http://www.sportsmaster.no/Kondisjon/Spinningsykkel/Sykkelrulle.aspx?gclid=CKC-mZ3m-7UCFa-XcAod5jcAiQ

  • SF- yes, resistance is speed dependant, so for example 300 watts is around 20 mph, speed up and the resistance curve also increases.

  • Ah, I was going to offer to lend you mine to try for the weekend.

    Dammit has a fluid to iirc. Maybe he'll chim in to confirm it'll do what you want?

    Say your doing 90rpm in the 39-17 this will need 220watts(examply)
    If you shift to the 39-16 and stay at 90rpm, this will need 240watts(example)
    But if you shift to 39-16 at 60rpm this would only need 220watts(example)

    Speed - power. So same gear, less rpm = lower speed = lower power.
    So if you want to do low cadence intervals, then big ring, bigger cog, low cadence.

    You just need to find the right gear to match the cadence you want to do at a speed that you can do it. As speed = power.

    Crap explanation I know.

  • Looked at something like that. As I only have carbon wheels for the roadie, and dont really want to fit a turbo tyre (so the bike is ready to use if family duties suddenly release me). It seemed a good idea.

    No, you must build a dedicated turbo bike ;-)

  • Oh do get a 2nd rear wheel with a crap tyre to use on the turbo.
    Don't use your road tyres.

  • How does that work for climbing though. My speed up a 8% incline is going to be 9kph (really hope I'm wrong, but thats calculated for pushing my heavy butt with 200 watts).

    Do I use the same gear I would for such a climb (34:21?) and let the trainer figure it out?

  • Oh do get a 2nd rear wheel with a crap tyre to use on the turbo.
    Don't use your road tyres.

    hmmm. Wheel with 11 speed campagnolo cassette, and training tyre.

    Bloody campag addiction.

  • No. Speed up and incline is irrelevant, it's the power needed to get up that incline.

    That power will be at a different speed on the tubro.

    So use a speed that you can maintain for the time it would take you to make the climb in real life.
    Sense?

  • ^Exactly, a watt is a watt, ignore the wheel speed- that's how you are setting the resistance, what you need to focus on is cadence.

    i.e. rear wheel speed at 20mph for 300 watt resistance, then use the gears to select a representative climbing cadence- 50 rpm or whatever your bike is geared for.

    You can probably work out the average power required by looking at incline, distance, rider+bike weight, then the target time.

    Take the power figure and then train to that, for the period you need to output it for.

  • So using the Nibberittet, Dammit, TW2, and myself will be enjoying soon, as an example.

    0 - 1.5km elevation gain over 21km distance.

    Real world.
    7% incline,at 225watts , for 92Kgs of bike + rider, over 21kms = 11 kph over 113 mins
    11 kph, in 34:23 = 60rpm

    Turbo trainer.
    225watts = 30kph.
    30kph at 60rpm = 50:12

    So basically I need to push 50:12, at 60rpm, to reproduce climbing the mountian in a time of 113mins, on the fluid 2.

    faints

    resource:
    http://bikecalculator.com/
    http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm

  • Does TM know about this?

  • P.S. I'm riding the weenie bike, not the fixed.

  • I will have a double though, cos I'm well 'ard.

  • Does TM know about this?

    Piss. sorry. Thats rude of me.

    Almost as bad as Gabe, Gabes.

    Edited.

  • So using the Nibberittet, Dammit, TM, and myself will be enjoying soon

    Hmm..

  • I will have a double though, cos I'm well 'ard.

    I have 50/34, a 11-25 cassette, and a stiff 6.5kg bike.

    Just need a weenie body. 30 is not a polka dot jersey BMI.

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Turbo Trainer Advice

Posted by Avatar for Joe.S @Joe.S

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