Bike Anti-Porn - When Things Go Wrong

The cockpit angle makes his bicep definition pop.

Ah, the Sir Chris Hoy choose-bars-to-enhance-appearance-of-physique technique...

Figured he'd be serious, given the level of kit. Definitely looks like a strange position, but not as strange as you'd think just by looking at the bike alone.

The Graal is owned by Magicman, he's pretty quick, sub 20 rider

...with a casual disregard for the 3cm rule, by the look of it.

this is naused by the bar tape and the (un) fly looking bulb holding it
i bet he's Willy Wonka

Can I hazz fork pleez ?

QuintanaRoo carbon aero.

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No, the crown mounted one is more elegant (at least to an engineer) because it takes the steerer tube out of the brake load path. Using the steerer to react brake application load is a primary cause of brake chatter on bikes with cantilever brakes.

Sadly I'm not an engineer. I move bits of paper from one side of my desk to the other and try to look busy for pretty much all of the day.

I've been Testered™ and couldn't be happier. Jumped on the CX bandwagon last week and gots me a new Giant TCX which also made me happy. Has steerer mounted brake cable guide - less happy now.

Gaston Fr - what do you consider is so wrong with that? Granted its not where I would want all my luggage positioned but otherwise it looks to be a sound machine.

The wheels, tires, gear ratio, colors, derailleur, pump, rear light, pedals, crankset and saddle are the biggest problem. Not to keen on the bag either but that could be functional.

The wheels, tires, gear ratio, colors, derailleur, pump, rear light, pedals, crankset and saddle are the biggest problem. Not to keen on the bag either but that could be functional.

So basically, you've completely missed the point of what a functional touring bike means?

Retro fit canti's just to fit front rack? Odd decision. Plus there is no room to fit a crown mounted canti hanger. Those are more elegant (at least to an engineer) because it takes the steerer tube out of the brake load path. Using the steerer to react brake application load is a primary cause of brake chatter on bikes with cantilever brakes.

I'd leave it right here given this is what an original looks like.

Retro fit canti's just to fit front rack?

No, it been converted from 700c to 650b.

Can't see anything wrong with the bicycle, it's almost similar to my touring bike with the exception of the 650B and rear drop out.

I like the Bridgestone, just personal taste.

Probably a chilled commuter for some where flat and dry

Now I understand why.

Too much layback.

Jumped on the CX bandwagon last week and gots me a new Giant TCX which also made me happy. Has steerer mounted brake cable guide - less happy now.

The problem with a mount on the headset is that as you brake the fork flexs back effectively (if the headset is worn or loose that allows even more flex) making the distance between the brake and the headset mount further apart and causing the cable to tighten further which pulls the pads even tighter to the wheel and increases the flex .. eventually either the tyre slips momentarily on the ground or the pad slips on the rim (if you don’t go over the bars in the mean time) and the fork flexs forwards creating the shudder. The greater the distance between mount and brake the worse this effect .. ie long head tube big frames. Fixing the stop on the fork crown obviously reduces the length and corresponding reduces the shudder. Also you have eliminated the any movement in the headset.

Now I understand why.

Too much layback.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Funny-Grumpy-Cat-Images-HD-Wallpaper-1080x611.jpg

It's such a shame that the image is over 1024 pixels too big, otherwise it would have a slightly better impact.

The problem with a mount on the headset is that as you brake the fork flexs back effectively (if the headset is worn or loose that allows even more flex) making the distance between the brake and the headset mount further apart and causing the cable to tighten further which pulls the pads even tighter to the wheel and increases the flex .. eventually either the tyre slips momentarily on the ground or the pad slips on the rim (if you don’t go over the bars in the mean time) and the fork flexs forwards creating the shudder. The greater the distance between mount and brake the worse this effect .. ie long head tube big frames. Fixing the stop on the fork crown obviously reduces the length and corresponding reduces the shudder. Also you have eliminated the any movement in the headset.

You learn something new every day. Literally yesterday and today. Winner.

pshh

How does it keep the wheels in synch?