Transmission database - for all your crank / bb / bottom bracket questions

Alfine crank was gonna be my suggestion

That's settled then. Cheapest option too.

My girlfriend has a stock Giant Defy equipped with a Claris compact double chainset, i.e. 50/34 and 11-32 8-speed at the back. What is the best option for lowering the lowest gear below 1-1 for loaded touring? Initial thought was to bung on a triple, but I'm guessing this would involve too much faff with additional purchase requirements (shifter, derailleur, bb spindle??)

Maybe a MTB dinner plate cassette, any options for smaller ring on the front, or both? I guess the rear mech is medium cage.

Currently building a single-speed runaround, and the cheap Dawes frame I've procured comes attached with a bottom bracket. It all seems smooth and workable, but before I buy a chainset, I'd like to know if modern ones will fit OK. Does anyone see any irregularities in the photo below/identify it, or can I go ahead and get myself something in the Miche price bracke?

Hey guys, I have a trackframe with Ambrosio ISIS splined BB. Is this compatible with a crankset that are for a power spline? Thinking of the SRAM 100 cranks. If not, what is a good crankset to get that is for ISIS splined?

I'm not 100%, but pretty sure that Powerspline has a smaller diameter axle than ISIS.

Either way, the BB needs to be the appropriate length for the cranks.

Better to get a BB to suit your chosen cranks, than the other way around.

Thanks for reply. BB came with the frame so was hoping to just be able to get cranks that fit. New to track bikes and didn't realise so much variation in BB!

If a frame is sold with the BB in situ, it's usually either because it's stuck or the seller doesn't have the tools to remove it: BB "belong" to cranks, not frames.

Find the cranks you like/can afford then get a BB to suit.

NB Not all cranks can be made to fit all frames, so if you're unsure it's best to check before you actually buy anything.

Makes finding cranks a lot easier. Thanks!

How necessary is facing of frames considered to be when using external bottom brackets? I know in the early days of HT2 we were told it was vital but I vaguely recall reading more recently that maybe it wasn't quite so important now...?

Still worthwhile?

Still worthwhile?

AFAIK yes, assuming it's an older frame: more recent frames (ie since outboard BB became common) should be manufactured to a higher standard.

Does anyone have any experience with this particular arrangement:

Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Dura Ace (hf) + Surly ?

I'm trying to work out if it's my chainline that is making all that noise or maybe something else.

Thanks.

Advice needed please.
Fitting an External Shimano BB Hollowtech 2.
Do I need to install it with a torque wrench ? If so can anyone recommend an affordable tool to do the job.
Thanks very much

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/external-bearing-crank-systems-hollowtech-ii-megaexo-giga-x-pipe-x-type-campagnolo-ultra-torque#article-section-1

Cranks and BB, yes. Gives a 42mm chainline.

Thanks very much for the article it explains a lot, however the tool used to fit the BB is not a torque wrench but the article tells you to tighten it to 60 pounds of effort,how do you judge that without a torque wrench?
I may be missing something or just don't understand.

There is a way to determine the effort applies (perceived torque) by taking the length of the spanner and dividing it by some other number blah blah blah. I bet that's as good as just guessing. I suggest you have a look at Park Tool's Youtube page. There's a number of videos about fitting BBs and the mechanic strongly recommends using a torque wrench but also explains how you can do it without.
https://youtu.be/cPQyQnNdews?t=453

Thanks.

It turns out that a replacement chain fixed my problem and now my Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Dura Ace (hf) + Surly is not a good combination, very noisy and grindy

Anyone know from experience if rs505 levers will work with an ultegra 11 speed mech? Google results seem contradictory or inconclusive

My drive train has started making god-awful grinding sounds last few rides on my daily commute. The last chainring kind of fell to pieces through age and over use, it lost teeth and everything, so I changed it a few months ago. Rode fine to start with, but changed the wheel set recently as well, which was ok to start with but now this grinding has started. Any ideas how to stop it????-it does not sound healthy.
I've stripped the bottom bracket, cleaned and re-packed it and the cups and axle cones seem fine. The chain line has never been perfect but doesn't seem too off, not enough to cause such a racket anyway ! The wheel still spins fine and the bike rides ok, but as I say such a nasty metal-on-metal grinding noise can not be a good sign. Mainly happens when I put extra force on the cranks to either climb hills, speed up or slow down. I'm at a bit of loss. Bike is ridden everyday fixed on a 46/16 ratio...

Have you checked how 'off' your chain line is?
Maybe your sprocket is wore out? Before you buy a new one measure your chain line and get a sprocket which suits it best.

. Just saw this, figured it. The chain line is a bit off, but the main problem turned out to be that the Cups and Cones ion the old rear hub had become really rather tightened over time, not sure how, but I guess through back-pedalling etc to slow down (It's ridden brakeless.). So have adjusted them and MUCH better now. Thanks

I have a custom I built and rode fixed for about 2 years. Moved down to London now and going to start riding it again.

My problem is that my original non-drive side crank came loose and fell off. Upon inspection it seems that the alloy has worn and wobbled loose. I bought another crank for £10 and put that on. My problem now is that I think I bust the thread with my old pedals and the pedal has fallen off the crank.

I have bought some new DMR V12's with straps now to put on for a better ride but I do not want to put them on if there's possibility of damaging the thread on the pedals from the new crank I bust.

Anyone got any suggestions about what to do? Do cranks need replaced fairly often since they're a softer alloy? Understandably riding fixed puts a lot of strain on the crankset..

It seems in both cases you describe the part has been poorly fitted. Your crank arm shouldn't work itself loose and your pedal shouldn't just drop off. The threads on the pedal are stronger than the threads on the alloy crank arm. If I were you I would closely inspect the threads on the crank arm, if they look rounded off or deformed the arm is likely junk. If unsure maybe try hand screwing another pedal into the arm to see what happens. With enough grease it should go in quite far without the aid of tools.

Post a photo of the threads if you are unsure.

I have aluminium frame with seized steel tamper square bottom bracket. I have tried to remove the BB but it is so seized that we broke 2x Park Tool BB tools. I will make it a project to smack the shit the axle out and cut out the cups but the question what tool to replace.

Is worth buying Park Tool BBT-22/32 again or something Cyclo/Silverline half the price does the same job?