Transmission database - for all your crank / bb / bottom bracket questions

Hi guys, anyone know why my freewheel hub does not engage with my wheel. I mean i can pedal with the hub rotating but the hub does not engage with the wheel.

Is the hub broken or does the lock ring need tightening? i've had the same problem 3 times now!! and every time i've just bought a new freewheel hub.

Its so frustrating and i would appreciate your feedback.

Hope it worked out and you are happy with the Omnium crack set. If not i know someone that will buy them off you

for a ~42mm chainline, what sealed cartridge BB for sugino 75s?

I run this on my Dodici: https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/15173348985804039860?hl=en&safe=off&sclient=psy-ab&q=campagnolo%20centaur%20bottom%20bracket&oq=campagnolo+centaur+bottom+&gs_l=serp.3.0.0.5544.6412.3.7178.7.2.0.5.5.0.62.121.2.2.0...0.0...1c.1.8.psy-ab.6_03lAqionU&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.44770516,d.ZWU&biw=1136&bih=571&sa=X&ei=mlxdUazfFIvSPPmNgNgK&ved=0CFQQ8wIwAA

as do these folks:

Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Goldtec + Surly = Muleboy
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Goldtec + EAI = dogsballs
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Goldtec + EAI= 31t®um
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Goldtec + EAI = Broker
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Phil Wood + Phil Wood= adoubletap + fred
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Phil Wood + Phil Wood= biles
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Phil Wood + Phil Wood = maxcrowe
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Phil Wood + Phil Wood = Buddha Fingaz
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Phil Wood + EAI = mattty
Sugino 75 + Campag Centaur 111mm + Mavic Ellipse + EAI = mattty
Sugino 75 + Campag Veloce 111mm + Phil Wood + EAI = jaygee
Sugino 75 + Campag Veloce 111mm + Phil Wood + EAI = Rascal
Sugino 75 + Campag Veloce 111mm + Formula + Dura Ace = TooTallTim
Sugino 75 + Campag Veloce 111mm + MACK + EAI = 31t®um

I have a fulcrum rrs crank with bearings. And a cannondale supersix frame with BB30 and bearings installed. I also have both a BSA and ITA campy(fulcrum compatible) bb cup set.

WHAT DO I NEED NOW? ADAPTERS? BUT WHICH?

please help

It seems that ultra torque cups for bb30 exist. I'd suggest that approach. With ultra torque type cranks you definitely want to use the crank's own bearings and put whatever adapter between bearings and frame.

Like these, I suppose?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-ultra-torque-intergrated-oversize-cup-set-bb30/

Hey,

I have been "googling" for the past 2 hours to get my head around general considerations with BBs and chainline to no real avail.

I am getting a Dolan Pre Cursa (68mm English BB size) and a set of Ambrosio Prestige Cranks (ISO taper) from a friend to go with it.

Thing is...what BB spindle length will I require? What BB will I need to be as close as possible. Will be getting some (cheap, I know) Planet X AL30 track wheels, which do have some good forum reviews tbh.

I've been trying to get the BB out of my Bianchi Pista for the last few days - one side is coming out but the other refuses to budge.

Questions: can anyone confirm the BB's in a bianchi pista are actually british threaded, rather than Italian?

Does anyone have any super pro tips for getting it out before I resort to the shop?

In lay/non mechanic terms, can someone please explain to me what the deal with all these different modern BB standards is?

I'm thinking about buying a Power2Max power-meter + cranks I need to ensure that the cranks and BB are compatible. Rotor3D+ appear to be the most versatile being compatible with BSA68, ITA70, Cannondale BB30, PF30, Pressfit BB86, BBright.

One bike currently has an "FSA BB-6000 Gossamer MegaExo" BB and the other (SRAM rival?) is printed with BSA but the DS reads "33-09" and the NDS reads "38-09".

I guess neither of these are compatible with the Rotor? Why is it all so fucking complicated??

In the beginning, there was a 68mm wide BB shell threaded 1.370"×24tpi. Except for French, Italian, Swiss and Raleigh bikes, that is, but they were all there or thereabouts. This worked fine for solid steel axles of about ⅝" diameter with loose ball bearings.

Next, some clever bloke decided that 22mm hollow axles were better (and they are) so we got ISIS, Octalink and Powerspline. Unfortunately, he wasn't quite clever enough, and the thin bearings lasted about a week.

A slightly cleverer bloke figured out that you could make cantilevered cups to put proper sized bearings outside the conventional shell, and increase the axle even more to 24-25mm, which is big enough to make reliable aluminium axles saving even more weight, and we got HollowTech2, GXP, UltraTorque and MegaExo, plus Zipp pushing the envelope with a 30mm axle version. The new problem was that the BB shell had effectively grown to 90mm wide, which didn't leave room for both a decent crank thickness and the riders' heels unless you increased Q. Alongside this, we got Shimano's BB86/90/92, which simply integrated the bearing receptacle into a wider plain-bored shell.

Cannondale looked at all the problems with their engineer's eye and worked out that the good things were; 30mm axle (light, stiff), pressed in bearings (cheap to mass produce and assemble) and 68mm shell width (room for both cranks and ankles) and designed BB30, and published it as an open standard.

All was well with the world for about ten minutes, until people decided that the cost of making frames accurately was too much for them, so we got PF30 where the BB shell accepts the bearings via a mushy shim, which avoids the need for a high precision bore in the shell at the cost of putting some cheap plastic in the load path from cranks to frame. Also, some people (Vroomen&White, THIndustries) thought they were too good for a mere common standard, and started fucking unnecessarily with the bearing spacing, so we got BBRight and BB386Evo

copied here from current projects because more people might find it interesting and/or helpful.

Pretty sure they are english. Dom had one - maybe he can confirm?

Which side is out? NDS I would imagine.

tools used so far? Cartridge BB? What kind?

1. Attack with WD40 or better penetrating fluid then wait.
   
2. Be sure you're turning it the right way. (as you know)
   
3. Use more leverage. Normal ratchets and spanners are just too shot. Either mount the tool in a vise and use the whole frame as a lever, or, with both wheels firmly on the ground use a 24" breaker bar to turn the tool. Or a ratchet/spanner plus scaffolding pole, or a spanner lashed or screwed to some 2by4.
   
4. Before giving up, try cautiously turning it the wrong way a bit. That might just free it up.
   

And to expand on mdcc_tester's explanation of modern BB systems:

There are basically 2 sets of 2 dimensions you need to worry about: crankset axle diameter and length between the cranks, bb shell diameter and length. Providing you can fit the axle through the bb shell and still fit the cranks onto the axle and bearings in somewhere, someone will make cups and/or shims to fit them together.

You can get the frame's numbers from the name of the BB system it was designed for, then using a chart like this one from rotor. You get the crankset's numbers from seeing what's the narrowest, longest bb system they claim compatibility with.

This makes BB30 shells the most compatible, and BB30 specific cranks the least. With cranks you trade-off wide compatibility for ankle friendliness and lower q-factor. I suspect BB30-specific cranks will loose out over time despite their advantages because wide compatibility sells more cranks.

BB386 EVO takes PF30 and concedes defeat on ankles & q-factor, lengthening the shell to match wider cranks without cantilevering. (After external bearing bbs pushed up q factors, frame manufactures started making their chainstays wider, now this is another factor native bb30 cranks have to fight.)

BBright is just plain weird. It looks at the ankle-biting crank arms and dished spiders that come with long bb shells and concludes that dished spiders are bad, but somehow, ankle-biting non-drive-side cranks are good... so just stretches the shell left a bit from PF30. (They argue that having the nds crank nearer perpendicular to the axle is better because the forces are simpler... ignoring all the twisting from the cantilevered pedal on the other end of the crank arm.)

BBright California takes BBright and goes back to press fitting bearings directly into the frame like BB30. There's probably a BB386 EVO equivalent, but i haven't read about it yet.

Pretty sure they are english. Dom had one - maybe he can confirm?

Which side is out? NDS I would imagine.

It was English. And got it out in the end with liberal applications of WD-40 and a FUCKOFF wrench.

Does anyone have experience using taper Campag cranks on a JIS BB. From what iv read, i gather they will sit 4mm or so outboard. I was just wandering if anyone had tried or ridden this set-up or if it really really is in my best interest to pick a ISO BB?? Replies would be most appreciated

It seems Miche Primato Advanced is now JIS.

I am after a 45mm chainline. Does anyone know what BB would give me that?

Any info on a SRAM Omnium, GXP BB and BLB track hubs? Running a 17T BLB cog. If i scraped my new frame I would probably off myself in quick fashion

I got this from a Miche representative:

*"Yes, all our square cranksets and BB are now JIS standard, we do not produce anymore ISO. The Advenced cranksets with JIS BB have a chainline of 42,5mm."
*
Means I need to sell the BB I bought for the cranks. Dammit.

Miche chainset + Miche hub + BLB freewheel

Is 110mm BB enough, or do I need to get a 113mm one?

Could anyone help me, i've got a miche primato crankset, the slightly older iso taper one and am going to change the bb, it seems the miche one is a bit rubbish with cups loosening and i myself have experienced this.

So, i'm going to order a new one, question is which one? i've found this kinex one which apparently is the same as the miche but with different cups http://velosolo.co.uk/kinex.html thus solving my problem, or do i get the apparently better quality token one here http://www.wiggle.co.uk/token-tk867-iso-square-cromo-axle-bottom-bracket/ and take the 2mm hit on the chainline?

I guess what i'm asking is has anyone had any other problems with the miche other than cups issues?

Do Omniums give a 44mm chainline?

Do Omniums give a 44mm chainline?

I believe there was something about older versions being different from the new ones. So it can be either 42 or 44.

Just pure hearsay. I do not have Omniums.

Went through the list but couldn't see anyone using Dura Ace 7710 hubs with EAI cogs. I got a pair with rear fixed/fixed, and none of my spare EAI cogs wouldn't go on. Dura Ace cogs fit with no problem.
Strange, as I used EAI with my 7600 hubs before with no problem.
Did it ever happen to anyone else?

its the plating of eai that makes the threads being very resistant
work it slowly, it worked for roboto (although his config is Paul x EAI, he experienced he same issue)

Thanks, sorted yesterday. Done it exactly same way.