Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

Lower back for me for sure but due to the stupid labrum tear in my right hip the strength in the stood up position on the MTB is my biggest struggle. Thankfully Adelaide doesn't have any really long downhill runs and I now have a full suspension bike.

Rip is what it did to the skin between your thumb and index finger

You know what solved thumb issues? Gripshift RIP singlespeed

Although I do have two bikes with gripshift

It’s not pedalling (I’m singlespeed so can’t pedal on the downs anyway) it’s just getting out the seat and moving my weight over the front and using my legs as suspension as well I suppose.

A few times I sat down (and back) and the drop in grip at the front was noticeable. My previous mtbs have all been a lot shorter and steeper so I have been able to get away with being less focused on weighting the front.

my biggest issue is probably lower back with climbing.

I get a bit of back pain when climbing but it doesn’t really hinder my climbing (again, I can only climb so much due to being ss) and I don’t seem to get anything lasting from it so presume that as I use the bike more it will improve. Maybe that’s wishful thinking!

Wall sits, squats.

Yoga for the chill dudes

Rather just ride my bike and take more painkillers*.

*this is a joke. don't take painkillers, kids

Anyone get a weird bobbing when their dualie is fully locked out? What I want is to find someone who knows how a Spark is supposed to feel and let me know if something is off. As it stands, I much prefer riding it in Traction mode rather than fully locked out, which is annoying on road climbs.

I'm not the only one.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52731

lockout cable without enough tension would cause the exact problem youve described

Ok, that sounds like an easy fix. Other than making this weirdness go away, how am I supposed to tell how much cable pull the shock and the fork actually need for their modes?

Does anyone have a Scott Spark 930 PDF download? I'm getting feck all. Nevermind. Shit website.

Weightweenies?

It doesn't mention max pressure or guidlines. Got my digital shock pump. How much more air can I add to this shock before it explodes?

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/super-high-pressure-in-2020-scott-spark-rc.1123333/

https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1157

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7y1xoUtb63g

I'm about 80 kg and hover around 230 psi at 25% sag. To set your sag, put the dropper down if you have one, sit on the bike with your feet on the ground without bouncing on it, then raise your feet, carefully put them on the ground again, and gently stand without bouncing the bike. Then measure the distance between the sag ring and the wiper's outer edge. Keep filling it until you measure around 11mm from the wiper edge to the sag ring. This will be ~25% sag for that shock. It's a good starting point.

At 90 kg, I wouldn't be surprised if you end up at around 250 psi, give or take. But make sure to fill the shock with 50 psi at a time and cycle the shock by sitting on it about 10 times before adding more air. This is so that both chambers equalize. When you're done with your sag, then you need to set your rebound, which is a totally different process

It was just a link I found that had the same symptoms mentioned.

Are you not using the twinlock lever? As long as the cables are tight, then this will always give the right amount of cable pull. The shock should have a little white line on the blue dial. This should end up pointing between two white lines etches on the shock body when it is locked.

I think you'd be safe to follow the standard Fox DPS guide: https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/my22/605-00-250-FLOAT-DPS-Tuning-Guide-white-revB.pdf
350psi for EVOL shocks

I'll have a look at it. But also, if I can tighten it up and the obvious bouncing goes, that's a winner.

I've just added almost 100psi to the rear shock so it's now at 275psi, sag is 25%

When adding shock pressure, do you always measure again after a few bounces and or sag test, because it seems to lose 10-20psi each inflation, presumably from the pump being removed and the air settling in the pos/neg chambers?

Thanks. That gives me some room to breathe. I don't think the shock pump is rated over 300 anyway.

You shouldn't lose too much air when you remove the pump, but some have a two stage screw so you lose even less. I find it's the hose filling when you re-attach it which causes the pressure drop.
Yes you should always cycle the shock a few times after making major pressure changes to make sure the chambers are equalised.

^This. When you detach your pump, that reading is for the shock and pump together. When you screw your pump back on again, you've increased the volume but not the amount of air, so the reading is lower.

Whatever your pump says when you disconnect it is what's in the shock.

My old one had the two stage screw fitting. This one is the Rockshox digital 300psi one that only has one section to screw on.

Ah ok, this suspension malarkey is far too scientifical for my liking. Was it invented by triathletes or something?

Anyway, rode stuff with 275psi in it and didn't die. No idea about rebound. Feels basically the same to me no matter which side the lever is on. I'll do the kerb test and just leave it I guess.

I still need to fit a better saddle and I bet when that happens it'll be too high so I'll need another dropper. And people reckon tubeless was invented to sell bike parts..

I bought my Yalla frame when I was 5ish KG lighter than I am now, and I bought the recommendation for the “soft” configuration. I think I need to put some more air in my coil before I head out today. Oh, wait.

Go for a big poop before you ride.

I went down a trail that I later discovered to be ranked “expert” by mistake a few days ago and almost performed a mid-trail lightening exercise as you describe.

"With the new Spark, you can adjust the head angle by .6 degrees slacker or steeper. This can be done without cutting cables or bleeding brakes. All you must do is disassemble the bar, rotate the headset cups 180 degrees, and reassemble."

I've no idea what it is currently. Why would I change this?

"Syncros Duncan Dropper Post 2.0 31.6mm / L & XL size 150mm"

Anyone want a near-new one of these? Pulled it out of the Spark after a couple of short rides because it was too high. Due to limited insertion, the OneUp I swapped in from the Stanton is also too high, so I need another, shorter, 31.6 option if anyone has say a 150mm or 125mm lying around let me know...