Which Chain? (Chains / Size / Width / Wear)

is there much difference between the cheap 10 speed chains? is it worth spending a bit more for longevity?

^ Probably not.

KMC 9 speed chain was still well under 0.075m per link wear after 2,300 miles. But over the chainlink the wear was really, really bad. Probably well over 0.1mm. Anybody come across this and knows how this affects cassette wear?

Changed the chain anyway.
All is good on the cassette with the new chain.

interesting to know, what was the chain?

interesting to know, what was the chain?

Well yes, very interesting. Evans Chain. What did you think?

Tried putting a Wippermann 800 chain together with the Snap on link. What a fucking ball ache. Ended up taking the chain off and whipping it around the room in a rage.

Snap on or Connexlink? The latter should be pretty easy, the former are shit but shouldn't be on an 8-speed chain anyway

it was the snap on:http://www.connexchain.com/Connectors/Snap-On/1_310.html

Literally cant seem to get the bracket over the pins. Ive sacked it off and gone for one with the connexlink which ive used before and are good

Now I understand why people have sweat catchers for rollers, I've totally rusted the chain on my roller bike, which has been indoors for the last 2 months!

it was the snap on:http://www.connexchain.com/Connectors/Snap-On/1_310.html

That's definitely the cheap and nasty option compared with the Connexlink, yet another reason why it's worth the extra for the 808 over the 800

good to know. I would like to see someone fit it just to see if its physically possible!

I have successfully fitted one on a 7Z1 and on some horrid cheap KMC on my sister in law's track bike, but it does feel like you're going to snap it before it snaps on.

I managed it eventually with the 708, but I think I had to bend something back into shape afterwards.

was going to ask tons of questions about replacing the kmc z510HX on my langster but mdcc your posts above seem to have answered most of my questions.

One thing, you recommend the wipperman 1z1, is it better than the z510hx? As i see it the kmc is not a bad chain either and its the rust proof version.

Also is the spring clip connector easy to get on on the 1z1?

Lastly, would it be a problem to shorten the chain by a couple of links from the originals length?

It look ugly but the rust-proof coating work extremely well when touring;

1 Attachment

was going to ask tons of questions about replacing the kmc z510HX on my langster but mdcc your posts above seem to have answered most of my questions.

One thing, you recommend the wipperman 1z1, is it better than the z510hx? As i see it the kmc is not a bad chain either and its the rust proof version.

Also is the spring clip connector easy to get on on the 1z1?

Lastly, would it be a problem to shorten the chain by a couple of links from the originals length?

The galvanised versions of KMC chains are suffixed -RB (e.g. Z510RB), anything else isn't as corrosion resistant as the 1Z1

The 1Z1 has a conventional spring clip (not the nasty snap link of the 7Z1) which is very easy to assemble with some thin nosed pliers. You can do it with a screwdriver, but it's less easy to control and you usually end up with the spring clip flying across the room, never to be seen again

Shortening the 1Z1 is easily done even with lightweight chain tools, it doesn't require the brute force which makes the 1R8 such an attractive proposition for racing.

The great advantage of the 1Z1 over the Z510 is that the Wippermann is bushed whereas the KMC is bushingless. Bushingless is an excellent idea for dérailleur chain which needs to flex sideways, but that same flexibility makes it easier for the chain to jump off the chainring on a fixed or SS bike. I have samples of the two chains on my desk, and the difference in sideways flexibility is really obvious even over the 16 link offcuts in front of me.

What chain tool do I need to check chain wear on a SS chain?

Would a road chain tool suffice?

How about for breaking the chain?

I never bother checking wear. Just replace it every few months. With something in the £15 area.
Maybe I should check wear.

What chain tool do I need to check chain wear on a SS chain?

Would a road chain tool suffice?

Yes, you're measuring the pitch, which is ½" either way.

Maybe I should check wear.

Could save you a few weeks worth of usage if the chain turn out to be fine.

What's a good tool?

What's a good tool?

http://www.lfgss.com/post4062723-294.html

The ol' Park Tools usually work well.

Cheers goonz. But I only ride road bikes anyway!

Yes thanks ed.

Fill ya boots chain nerds: everything you need to know and more!

The last time I checked, the only accurate chain wear measuring tools (Shimano) were not readily available and cost something like £40.

The good news is that all the rest exaggerate wear: better safe than sorry...