-
• #152
Mario Vaz. Google him. He's good with transfers as well, gets a load of crap slung at him but for an above average job for a really fair price the man should be worth a look. He did my Olmo and it's a top job. Hither Green SE13, 5 minute walk from HG mainline.
-
• #153
please help,
i stumbled upon a post that had a link to a new website a member had put up, where you can build and colour a cycle, it was not the japanese one but a uk site, and really nice graphics.
i have used search and spent hours trawling all to no avail !
and help ? -
• #154
www.fixiestudio.com i think
-
• #155
That is really nice.
-
• #156
Thats quite fun.
Heres my current bike all be it with a front brake and genesis flyer plastered on the side.
-
• #157
Well that was a good 10 minutes of fun.
This is my bike but with Eddy Merckx on the side.
1 Attachment
-
• #158
hey bluefoam
many thanks for put a old man out of his misery !
may your wheels spin forever !
s -
• #159
the "im feeling lucky" option is like a anti-porn generator.
-
• #160
'squitefun.
-
• #161
What kind of paint can be used? Is car paint ok to use? Any tips for getting stickers off? Really tough old ones...
-
• #162
hair dryer/heat gun/blow torch
-
• #163
Take the frame (bare of bits and stickers) down to your local body shop, with an 8-pack in the other hand.
They will blast it clean for you, and slap some leftover paint on - they always have loads around. Worst case, it's nicely primed, best it's a colour you like. Or give it back to you and you can make a decent enough job back home. Prep is the key.
-
• #164
there really is no need to get it back to raw. if anything it is a bad move because it will give you less scratch resistance. for a really nice job, just sand down the original paint and then primer over it and carry on as normal. you can just sand it and go straight to colour but a lot of paints are transparent and you will see any painted on decals etc through it and it can change the colour a bit from what you are expecting. i have a bmx and i have sprayed it a countless number of times. the best and most solid times where when i just sanded down the original paint until it was matte all over and then did a few light coats of colour followed by at least a whole can of laquer. halfords paint is the best ive managed to get hold of in just your average shop. and another tip, lots of light coats are better than a thick one. it is annoying because of the extra time but the results speak for themselves
-
• #165
I made some Peugeot stickers for someone the other week. There are a couple of styles Peugeot used. email me with an image and I'll see what I can do (computer cut vinyl). pete.whelan@talk21.com
I dont charge much (e.g. down tube sticker £1 each)
-
• #166
Ok cheers, halfords was where I was thinking of going for paint. And any advice on laquer? As I was unaware of this... Massive newb
-
• #167
i would say halfords aswell but other people dont like it. it seems to come out of the can nice and you can get a nice finish with it compared to the wilco brand one
-
• #168
graffiti/art paint such as belton and montana is good as its quick drying, the last frame i re sprayed like that i did the og paintjob over with 1200 grit sandpaper, 3 coats of paint, and a full tin of laqueur (about 7 coats, 2 coats a day) was a nice job in the end.
-
• #169
Just bought a kotter to convert, but I really don't like the colour scheme.
http://allegro.pl/kotter-dura-ace-campagnolo-tanio-rower-poznan-i1324148571.html
I would like it to be a nice racing green with the chrome on the stays and forks but I don't know what the best way to go about it is?Can you powder coat part of the frame and leave the stays chrome?
Would it be better, seeing as the existing paint is in a reasonable condition to sand it a little and spray over the green and then clear coat it? -
• #170
I wasted alot of time and about £30 attempting a DIY job with Plastikote and then gave up and got it powdercoated for £35. I did the whole primer, sanding between coats, etc etc, and it was chipping like a bitch all over the place. I think one of the problems was I was doing it in winter and it was too cold to adhere properly. What I found worked well was after I got my frame powdercoated I then luglined it and applied my own coloured panels to it with plastikote (sanded down the areas of the powdercoat that I was going to paint) and it worked well, see below. If you've got the time and patience (this is the most important part) Than thats the cheapest way to get a unique and semi-proffessional looking paint job for little money.
-
• #171
That is a really nice job!
Of course powder coat is preferable, but can you part powder coat, and leave the stays bare chrome, or do you have to completely cover the frame.
It would be a shame to cover up the chrome.
-
• #172
Looks like a good job Tom. Where did you have it done ?
-
• #173
I bought a frame recently on here for a project I'm building for the gal, been nicely powdercoated but I want to pick out some details on the fork crown / lugs / seat tube.
Does anyone have any advice or tips on doing this and specific paints / brands?
Ta in advance
Tom -
• #174
utfs is a good paint brand. Google it.
-
• #175
Cheers Hippy, although not much comes up?
Any links or shops you know sell it?
Try here:
http://www.hlloydcycles.com/index.htm
They list a "Ian Steele" decal amongst the Viking ones.