Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

If you want/need to build a wheel with different crossings on each side (3x driveside, 2x nds) there’s not much option other than to build one side at a time is there?

I normally build both sides at the same time (inbounds then outbounds) so dunno if there’s a way to lace it up that’d mean when you twist the hub the spokes in both flanges are at the correct angle? Like, send the 2x spokes straight out but put the 3x ones in at a bit of an angle?

Just count the offset from radial in the usual way, remembering that it's different per side. Everything then lines up as expected when you twist the hub to move from inbound lacing to outbound lacing.

Does anybody have a reliable memory (not me) on what the actual erd for a Sputnik 700 is? Ryde say 600, SJS 602, Spa say 607.
Please! Have it built so hard to measure accurately. And tbh measuring erd is always a bit hard for me, my method seems very vague.

Another question, is forcing 4x onto a wheel where the spoke clearance isn’t enough a really bad idea? Just trying to use up bundles of spokes I have for a friend’s beater wheel, it might be preferable re: spokes I happen to have spare.

That makes sense...but probably only because I looked up how to align the hub logo to the valve hole (I usually manage it but it’s a bit of a stab in the dark) and found a diagram that was all about “counting the offset from radial”.

Got about £300-400 to spend on some 700c disc wheels for my Genesis CDF which currently has budget shimano hubs and alex rims.
Don't know much about wheels (for example I thought it was all in the hub but he was saying the first thing to upgrade from this quote would be the rims).
I am 80kgs, bike has a rack most of the time, and is my only bike currently. As such, I use it for about town in Bristol where there are many pot holes, commuting all year round (only 4 miles each way), longer Sunday rides and 'gravel' rides. Might do the odd tour next year too. Will sport 35c tyres most of the time.
Been to my local wheelbuilder who was super sound/highly regarded and talked me through options and made some recommendations. Is this a solid choice? Any advice would be much appreciated please!

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I’d go for brass nipples, black or silver.

Is this a solid choice?

It's not terrible, but if you came to me with that use case, I'd have two questions; are you immovable on Centrelock, and is 35C the smallest tyre you'll use? If yes to both, I'd be going Shimano M8000 hubs, Kinlin RD-3FT and DT Alpine III

@gbj_tester @MCamb cheers. 32c probably smallest, max 38c I think with guards on the bike (maybe 40c without). With centrelock, no idea and don't know the difference/pros/cons. Was steered towards centrelock

With centrelock, no idea and don't know the difference/pros/cons.

6-bolt rotors are very simple to make and therefore cheap to replace when they wear out. The attachment system is well proven and extremely robust, having been used for many decades on all other vehicles with disc brakes. Centrelock sacrifices these attributes in exchange for a weight saving of a few grams.

Subjective question but please humour me:

Will 90gram-heavier rims on a gravel wheelset be noticeable and if so will the extra 3.5mm internal width be so nice to ride that I forget about the extra weight?

Details:
32h Hope Pro 2 Evo SP on Hope Tech XC rims (19.5mm internal 440 gram rims, 1785g total) swapping to 530 gram 23mm internal rims due to rear rim wheel gently cushioning the blow between a car and a wall.

'New' wheelset will be 1969 grams which sounds a lot, although current 1785 gram wheelset feels fine. Additional key point: I can't source a direct replacement rim.

Will 90gram-heavier rims on a gravel wheelset be noticeable and if so will the extra 3.5mm internal width be so nice to ride that I forget about the extra weight?

No and yes, in that order

Thank you 🙌

@gbj_tester thanks so much. Sounds like 6 bolt is preferable for me. Will look at that rim you mentioned and then what hubs would you go for at this price point with 6 bolt disc attachment? Or is it fine to use adaptors?

is it fine to use adaptors?

Adapters are a last resort if you're trying to get cheap or weird size rotors for existing Centrelock hubs.

If you're on QR hubs both ends, Shimano M756 remains a sound choice of 6-bolt touring hub. DT350 Classic is solid albeit at more than twice the price, but they do take all the axles so you can bring your nice wheels with you if you change frame/fork. Even with the Kinlin rims and Alpine IIIs they should just about come under your £400 limit.

Of course, there's a part of me which says just spend the money on two pairs of Mavic Crossride 29er wheels (€180 a pair at at least one German online retailer) 🙂

On the subject of centrelock v 6 bolt attachment, I remember back when I worked in a shop we had a pretty high end Trek mtb in that had horrendously screeching brakes. We tried everything to sort it, new rotors, new pads, bled the brakes, faced the mounts.

Nothing worked.

Until we swapped the centrelock wheelset (and rotors) out for 6 bolt. It was a night and day transformation.

Think that might have been non-Shimano centrelock hubs but it was enough to make me avoid centrelock wherever possible.

I can't remember if I read this somewhere. What's the latest with H+ ? They still exist? Rims out of stock everywhere, no new products in ages etc.

Will this Prime RD020 freehub fit a novatec D772SB? As in, is is the same as the out of stock RD010, which is allegedly a novatec type B2?

prime rdo20 is a D772SB (with a slightly rounded hub body)
so yes it fits

http://www.nguide.eu/sites/default/files/mysite/hubs/54/documents/D772SB-CL-X12-11S.pdf

Perfect, thanks! Knew the answer would be out there somewhere.

What's the forum approved bits for a 1st time, budget disc wheel build for my Arkose. Will need 135qr rear and 12TA front. 32 spokes for my lardy arse? I've not clue.

Fiddlesticks.
Returning the 12 miles from Wests last night,
there was no 'zip' in my legs.
Age/beer/time all contributory factors.
Wheeling bike into garden there was a lot of friction, rear tyre touching nds chain stay!
This morning check qr and re-centre wheel,
and brake caliper. Still not running freely.
Then I notice a(nother) broken spoke and the resulting taco'ed wheel.
Avid readers will remember that already this Summer
I have broken spokes in the rear wheels of a Mavic, (20-spoke),
and Ultegra 6700, (24?-spoke).
This time it is a Shimano RS 010 24-spoke rear wheel.

Quick discussion on the Wests whatsapp thread leads me to the conclusion
that low spoke count wheels are not suited to me/my weight/local pot holes and transverse ridged/trenched roads.
Does the thread favourite Kinlin rim come in a 32-spoke option,
and,
is it in stock anywhere?

I emailed them a few months back to ask about availability of TB14 rims. They replied a while later saying they were probably 3-4 months out from production. So sounds like they're still in business. BLB replied too to my query and said something similar.

Yes and yes. Here.

XR31RTS and some hubs, I like my bitex MTF/MTR and end caps for pretty much whatever axle standard you might need are easy and cheap to get. My rims have been sweet for loaded touring and smashing about offroad a bit and getting hit by rangerovers in 28h. I used pillar bladed spokes but mainly because they were in front of me in the right size.