Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Rosebikes £5.90 per 20, plus nipples

Bike24 €0.46 each including nipples

Probably comes down to postage rates between those two.

ty mdcc!

nips will come free with spokes

rosebikes all say without nipples

bike24 is inclusive

they come in around the same price inc postage

You have to buy the nipples separately if you buy from Rose but it still works out cheaper than buying elsewhere. No jelly babies though.

I need a new rim for a front wheel for the commuter. Currently running a Open pro laced to a DMR revolver hub with a hollow axle and bolts. The cheapest I can find a new open pro rim is £40. And I'm guessing lacing up a new rim is 15-20 pounds? If the spokes and nipples are all OK, can they be reused?
Or, since it's not the most amazing hub I'm using would I just be better off buying something OTP like the Hope Pro 3 or cheap shimano wheel? There's not a huge difference in price if I had to factor in new spokes.
If I had a max budget of £100, what would be a good option?
Thanks! And maybe I should give Arup a shout...

I like my revolvers, they've been great. Is yours one of the swappable ones or is it a QR that's been converted?

The cheapest I can find a new open pro rim is £40. And I'm guessing lacing up a new rim is 15-20 pounds? If the spokes and nipples are all OK, can they be reused?
Or, since it's not the most amazing hub...

You should be able to reuse the spokes with a Mavic Open Sport.

DMR hubs might not be expensive, but they look remarkably like a Novatec product, i.e. good value well made hubs. Unless there is something wrong with it, there's no point replacing it with something more expensive.

Spoke re-use will depend on whether you can turn the nipples - some well used wheels are too corroded. I'd use new nipples anyway, as the original ones are likely to have some damage to the flats from being built and then un-built.

See earlier in the thread for instructions on doing a simple rim swap - the important thing when reusing spokes is to reuse them in the same place as they were before, i.e. inbound/outbound, but that happens naturally if you use the 'tape the rims together' method. You can do this yourself, and then get somebody else to do the tensioning and truing if you don't fancy a complete DIY job.

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I like my revolvers, they've been great. Is yours one of the swappable ones or is it a QR that's been converted?

Not sure what the actual terminology is for the axle securing system and don't know if it was converted as it just came that way? Basically it looks like a QR hollow axle bit i use an allen key bolt. I like the system cause I just take a 5mm allen key with me in the tool kit. But yeah, there's nothing wrong with them. Bearings are still fine after 2 years of all weather riding.

You should be able to reuse the spokes with a Mavic Open Sport.

Thanks for all the info. I'll consider the tape rim together swap method. Wheel building is the last thing I have yet to tackle in relation to bike mechanics. Is there any reason that you suggested an Open Sport rim instead of the Open Pro? Or was it just because of price?

was it just because of price?

This

Any tips for getting the dish right on a rear wheel? I'm currently building my second one now. I remember it being the trickiest part the first time i did it so was wondering if there were any nuggets of wisdom out there.

Shorter drive side spokes is a start, but it depends...

What rim, hub, lacing and spoke length you using?

Mavic a119, tiagra, 3 cross, 292DS 294NDS (spoke lengths are off the top of my head, they may be a bit different).

using thicker spokes on the drive side helps a lot

Wind up the nipples on the drive side spokes up to the end of the thread but leave one thread showing on the non-drive. Work with the drive side during the initial stages of the truing / tensioning process and the rim will start off being dished too far to the right. This is what I do. I then find that the rim "drifts" to the left (non-drive side) as I bring up the tension. Once I've got the tension near the recommended amount on the drive side I'm still usually a few mm too far to the right. I then tension only the left side to dish and true simultaneously and I end up dead centre.

It's the same for disc front wheels and single sided track wheels.

Building up 32h 3x Retro GP4 to Quando flipflop with DT Competition spokes tonight.

Wishing I'd placed my Rose order after the discount code was offered upthread...

Wind up the nipples on the drive side spokes up to the end of the thread but leave one thread showing on the non-drive. Work with the drive side during the initial stages of the truing / tensioning process and the rim will start off being dished too far to the right. This is what I do. I then find that the rim "drifts" to the left (non-drive side) as I bring up the tension. Once I've got the tension near the recommended amount on the drive side I'm still usually a few mm too far to the right. I then tension only the left side to dish and true simultaneously and I end up dead centre.

It's the same for disc front wheels and single sided track wheels.

thanks will give it a try

My current effort. Front done just needs tightening/adjusting. Will try rear tomorrow.

I need a rear mtb wheel.

I have plenty of spare rims and hubs lying around. But will have to spend around £20 on spokes. The resulting wheel will be worth no more than £20.

Yet I could purchase such a wheel, maybe better for that £20 if I hang about for one to come along.

Should I just build the wheel for the excuse of using up clutter and wheelbuild practice or purchase what will probably in all honesty be a superior wheel.

/overthinking.

My current effort. Front done just needs tightening/adjusting. Will try rear tomorrow.

valve hole position is wrong, looks like it won't appear in the gap, just saying

valve hole position is wrong, looks like it won't appear in the gap, just saying

You must have better eye-sight than me, because I can't even see the valve hole in those photographs. All I can see is the sticker, and that's not where the valve hole is.

valve hole position is wrong, looks like it won't appear in the gap, just saying

You 100% sure you know where the valve hole is?

spokes dont cross/obstruct the valve hole so not bothered if it is wrong. i built these wheels to ride not stare at.

I need a rear mtb wheel.

I have plenty of spare rims and hubs lying around. But will have to spend around £20 on spokes. The resulting wheel will be worth no more than £20.

Yet I could purchase such a wheel, maybe better for that £20 if I hang about for one to come along.

Should I just build the wheel for the excuse of using up clutter and wheelbuild practice or purchase what will probably in all honesty be a superior wheel.

/overthinking.

use up the old stuff you have lying around,

practice and a tidy build will give you more satisfaction than an untidy shed and a unknown wheel