Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

The rear, 135 will be QR and your frame probably 12mm x 142mm so it won't fit unless you can get different end caps for the hub to convert it. These are available for lots of wheels but not all.
Same with the front, same width but different axle size. You will need to see if you can get 12mm end cap adapters

It is a silly question. You need the same axles to bolt them on the frame. Also, your rear hub is wider than 135.

not sure if i'm posting this in the right thread - sorry in advance if this is a silly question

It's the right thread if you wanted to be told it was a silly question. Oddly, also not a bad choice of thread if you wanted to find people who would still give the correct answer.

Has anyone ordered directly from Bitex?

https://bitexhubs.co.uk

Any hiccups?

That's not actually Bitex. It's DCR Wheels, selling Bitex kit. But I've bought from them before, and all has been well. Go for it.

Thanks!

I’m going to get some disc road wheels built for my bowman pilgrims and just wanted to sense check parts.

Hope RS4 centre lock disc hubs - 28h front and rear. 142x12mm and 100x12mm thru axle. Steel free hub to reduce bite marks.

Rims - XR31’s

DT revs front laced radially.
DT comps rear laced 3 cross.

Anything daft here?

One thing, my current disc wheels are QR. Is there anything I need to do to run thru axle instead? Sorry, but new to the world of disc.

DT revs front laced radially

Youre building these yourself? Id be surprised if a wheelbuilder agrees to this. Dont build a disc wheel radially, and dont do it with revolution spokes.

Dt comps all round or splash out on CX rays. No inbetween

I'd do front and back 2x with that combination, don't do radial front with a disc brake. Make sure you get the offset (OCR) version of the rim too, I think they might all be anyway as disc but worth double checking. Rs4s have changeable end caps to suit QR or thru axles, what you want depends on the frame and fork.

Dt comps all round or splash out on CX rays. No inbetween

I'm a fan of the pillar bladed spokes, way cheaper than cxrays and I've not noticed a downside.

But anything butted is sweet, DT, sapim, pillar, alpine, whatevs. Building it better is more important.

Anything daft here?

Not daft as such, but unless you're loading up the front, 24/32 is a better load distribution than 28/28

Aha, didn't know that radial and disc don't mix. Cheers.

pillar bladed spokes

I'm not paying CX Ray prices, but interested in this. I'll have a look, thanks

unless you're loading up the front, 24/32 is a better load distribution than 28/28

Good to know

I've done a few of that combo 28/24, including my own which have bitex instead of hope hubs but seem strong as hell, front one has a big ol' dent in from a range rover but still managed a loaded 1/3rd off road ride from Manchester to Brighton.

If you need these building I have stock of Pillar spokes and can easily source you rims and hubs .
Pillar spokes are £1.50 with brass DSN nipple.
Also have XR31T's in sandblast black finish rather than polished.
Also with these rims, 32h is a little overkill.

Revs or lasers are ok for the front wheel as is the spoke count. Imo anything over 24f/24r with the xr 31rts rims is over kill. I would build with triple butted spokes though 2x for both wheels. Sapim force (or cx force) or dt alpine III are suitable
I have done it with cx Ray's too and the wheels are robust.

Also the 32 asymmetric spoke rim seems to need building up non interlaced to stop unsavoury bends at the nipe on the DS even with washers. A few spokes failed there and I stopped building with the 32H rim. The 28h rim shows the same issue but to anlesser extent the issue is not present on the 24h rim
This is the only time where higher spoke count is not more reliable. The same issue is not present on the xr26rt and xr22rt. The xr22t symmetric rims also does show the same issue. Weird.

Lasers and the like are a pain to true, twist so easily. Easier to work with aeros or just normal double butted.
If it was for me for a normal mile muncher I'd go 24/24 in 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes. Strong, easy to work with and spares readily available in any bike shop

Lol. Not that difficult, really.

looking for advice regarding spokes, some words and numbers on the build:
Front White Industries 'Tracker', 28h 2x, Pacenti SL23 v1
Rear White Industries 'Cassette Hub' Set up 9sp 135mm, 32h 3x, Pacenti Sl23 v1
Was thinking either:
Front and NDS rear Sapim D-Light, DS rear Sapim Race with Sapim Oval nipple washers.
or:
Front and NDS rear Sapim Force, DS rear Sapim Strong with Sapim Oval nipple washers.
Meant for a mixed terrain commuter running low-riders and some occasional bikepacking, set up tubeless 35-40c.

mixed terrain commuter running low-riders and some occasional bikepacking

Very much triple butted territory, whichever is cheaper or easier to get out of Sapim Force or DT Alpine III. Ordinary DB (Race/Comp) will be fine, but if you're going to spend more, go for the insurance ones not the weight weenie ones.

Forget strong spokes on those wheels. Totally unnecessary. Use washers with the sl23. Even with washer expect them to crack. Not a rim I would use for rodes in the wild. Use a kinlin xr26t instead.

^^^
All sound advice, thanks.

I'm aware of the cracking issue, took the punt as the Pacenti were local to me and cheaper than Kinlin or anything comparable. Given my weight/riding and the decent tension ratio (mid 60s) I might actually get some worthwhile mileage out of them.

Would spokes that are 3/3.5mm too short be unsafe in a wheel build?