Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I want a front that can take a rim brake, the Aksium front will be disc only no?

I think the 36h rim I have was officially a disc rim but I’ve used it with a rim brake and it’s fine.

Can’t remember what rim it is now but I think it came in a rim brake version and the only difference was the brake track is painted on the disc version.

Actually, there’s quite a lot of rim brake Aksiums on eBay so it might be the way to go.

Rebuilding 50mm carbon rim brake wheels with disc hubs - will I die?

Novatec have some 20h 15x100 TA hubs that I could use on my old wheels.

I do weigh 85kg if that makes a difference...

I have a Halo Aerorage front wheel and after 3 1/2 years of road riding, the rim brake surface is shot. It fitting a new rim financially unfeasable? Because the hub and spokes are still fab!

fitting a new rim financially unfeasable?

Depends how much you pay for wheelbuilding. If you use the Aerorage rim, it's just a transplant for ~£35 + labour, compared with a new wheel being ~£80. If you're paying £45 labour for a rim transplant, whoever is doing it had better be bloody good 🙂

... and you can easily make the transplant yourself and only have to pay someone to true it.
Here’s a description from my favorite wheel book

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Here's what I do when swapping out a worn out rim for a new (identical) one. First loosen off all the nipples. I often sit on the sofa with the wheel in my lap watching a movie as it requires very little attention. Can get a little messy so I tend to leave the rim tape on. Loosen till about a third or half of the threads are showing on the spoke. Then remove the rim tape outside or in the kitchen where it's easy to clean up the dirt that comes out of the nipples.

Use masking tape (box tape is quite hard to remove, hence masking tape) to attach the new rim next to the old matching up the valve hole. Then with a nipple guide / friction nipple holder, unscrew the last few threads and remove the nipple. Move the spoke to the hole of the new rim and re-thread the nipple about half way. Continue all the way round then remove masking tape and discard the old rim. I spray a bit of WD-40 on to kitchen paper and give the thread a wipe first. I do re-use the old nipples and have never had any issues.

Then true and tension in the same way you would for a new build.

Kind of similar to the above method but I can sit and watch telly while I work without any danger of messing things up as is the case when truing and tensioning that is more precise.

I know it says don't reuse spokes and shit but anyone want used spokes? I've pulled down a few used wheels recently and it's against my religion - Hoarderism - to bin the spokes. Don't see why they wouldn't work for a beater build or someone practicing wheel builds. It'll take me a long time to use them all up as spares...

how many and what sizes? potentially interested

Well, one lot was off a 32h 700C wheel. The others, erm..

Old spokes, I label them and keep them for future wheel builds, they don't take up much room so are a breeze to store.

If I use say a set of 36 spokes to build a 32 spoke wheel, the 4 leftovers then go into another pot in the garage to be used for things like hanging components from when painting them.

I have so many 'used but good' spokes. One day I will sort and organise them. But more keep getting added. Can't bring myself to chuck them. Some do get used on budget wheels and repairs but not nearly enough of them.

I have lots of them too but never use them so I keep collecting more.

Has anyone seen or heard any rumours about Mavic releasing some hubs?

Ahh - https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/15/mavic-adds-carbon-rims-for-custom-wheels-hubs-coming-prototype-gravel-wheels/

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Back to the good old days I hope with Mavic.

Hi guys bought some lightbicycles rims and the direction sticker confuses me. Can someone explain please?

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Lace that one to the right side of the hub, alternate the rest of the holes left and right

So lace it to the drive side correct?

That’s what I understood from reading what you posted. I’ve never built them

Ok thanks

I built up 2 sets of light bicycle wheels last week. If you have a spare spoke and nipple put it through the hole, thread the nipple on and let the spoke hang i.e. place the hole where the spoke has gone through at the top holding rim vertical. Now, gently in the direction indicated by the arrow until the spoke reaches the angle it would be if it were laced to the flange of the hub. You'll see that the nipple will sit nicely in the rim hole. Try gently pushing it in the opposite direction and it won't reach that angle so easily. They have drilled the holes in the rim to help align the nipple.

Hopefully that explains it a bit.

Light bicycle were also very quick to respond on their online chat. I had a question about whether to use nipple washers especially after rebuilding a few sets of Zipp rims. But they said no. Phew. Those washers a pain.

Thanks good tip. Unfortunately I have already built it and put the spoke in the hole indicated to the drive side with the sticker pointing to the right. Is that what it ends up being? I’m guessing it could be on the non drive side as well if the rim was fliped and sticker pointing to the left.

What makes me question my built is the fact that, even at the right tension the nipples on the rear wheel still move in when squeeze the spokes in my hands. I built radio on the non drive and 2 cross on the drive.
The front was built radio but niples don’t move (although the same spoke direction logic was applied)