Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

https://www.lfgss.com/search.php?searchid=9549774

I only build wheels once in a blue moon. I always forget about leading spokes and where to start but Sheldon brown has a good page – it'll have everything you need to know there.

Deffo use this spoke calc page. It's the work of a forumenger and awesome.

there isnt a non drive side and a drive side on a fixed hub though? and all the videos i find just tell me to do my drive side first (so i just pick any side, do that first) then when it comes to the other side my spokes are too short because your ment to have two different lengths when doing a road hub..so what do i dooo????

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XTJzFjjFp0

if i followed this man do think it will work?? cheers

'Yo'

If your hub is a flipflop, your spokes should be the same length. Also some single sided hubs, like Royce, have an equal flange to centre measurement, to keep spoke tension even. It is important to have spokes that are the appropriate length. Working it out may be hard to get your head around but it's imperative.

Don't lace all the spokes on the first side! If that's what you're describing up there ^^ as meaning your other side's spokes won't reach. just the head-out half of your spokes, then do the other side head-out spokes, and only then do the head-inward spokes. Only do up each nipple til the spoke threading is still just visible.

Is any of this making sense?

Whilst I'm here... can anyone tell me a good way of ensuring that my valve hole is always in an open gap between spokes? I just can't picture in my head how to get this right...

Head out (so the spoke is running inside the flange), this is the key (1st spoke). The wheel is viewed from the right side (the freewheel or cog side).

That's from here.

I have found some rims are not drilled to allow you put a RH side spoke just to the right of the valve hole. But most do.

yo..basically i just need to know wether a rear hub fixed/fixed..wether to lace it like a drive side or none drive side?

Both sides of a double-fixed hub are drive sides, but it isn't really essential in fixed/ss builds to have the inbound spokes pulling, so you can flip the lacing pattern over if you have a left-handed rim and still want the valve to be between converging spokes.

Cheerz Miro

Whilst I'm here... can anyone tell me a good way of ensuring that my valve hole is always in an open gap between spokes? I just can't picture in my head how to get this right...

Don't forget to align the logo of the hub with the valve hole, otherwise you may get a slap!

Also how many spokes should you have to lace to know that the logo will be aligned once twisted, if you get what I mean

Also how many spokes should you have to lace to know that the logo will be aligned once twisted, if you get what I mean

If you have an eye for it, 1 will do. If you don't, I think 6 spokes are sufficient to constrain the hub in all axes, although real mathematicians are welcome to chip in with a proof for either 6 or the true number.

Whilst I'm here... can anyone tell me a good way of ensuring that my valve hole is always in an open gap between spokes? I just can't picture in my head how to get this right...

If you look along the nipples in the direction of rotation, big gaps are formed between leading and trailing spokes. In a conventional cross pattern wheel the spokes go: leading spoke, medium gap, leading spoke, big gap, trailing spoke, medium gap, trailing spoke, small gap, and back to leading spoke...

It's easiest to lace up the 'head out' spokes first, so decide whether you'd like them to be trailing or leading, then that and the above pattern will decide which of the two holes nearest the valve hole is the first hole to lace. Examining that hole in the rim will then tell you whether to lace the drive or non-drive side first. *

Align the hub label with the valve hole and on the side you are starting with find the hub flange hole that most closely aligns with the first rim hole. That is hole 0. Counting away from the label, place the first spoke though hole n for an n-cross wheel, and secure it though the first rim hole with a nipple. Lace up all the 'head out' spokes on that side. Lace all the head out spokes on the other side, starting one hole away from the valve hole so that there are now two spokes to one side of the valve hole and two empty holes on the other side.

You can let the hub rotate so the spokes lie radially while you're doing that, and as long as you rotate it the right way when you come to lace the 'head in' spokes the pattern will be set as you want it. (Align hub label with valve hole again as you lace the first 'head in' spoke.)

• Almost all rims go: drive-side hole, valve hole, non-drive side hole as you go round in the direction of rotation. The illustrations on Sheldon's wheelbuilding page assume the opposite, although his text allows for both. Sheldon's page builds wheels with 'head out' spokes trailing. Roger Musson's book builds with 'head out' spokes leading.
  

So should 1 cross lacing just cross or go under the other spokes?

Thanks Moth!

Snoops dale built a wheel 1x for me, he did it all head-out, and the spokes do have contact. Is that what you're asking?

I was thinking of lacing inbound and outbound and not having contact.

I tried inbound and outbound with contact by pulling inbound over the outbound but felt like too much stress. I'll try the all outbound way.

Thanks Skully.

Okay,started my first wheel build the other day and realized afterwards, that the spokes surrounding the valve hole were not parallel and so proceeded to re-lace the entire wheel.
Only thing is now, that although the lacing pattern looks correct it kinda resembles a basket weave.As in, the spokes are far from straight and do not sit well in the spoke holes on the flange.Of course more tension will pull in the slack, but i cant see that if i begin the trueing process that the spokes will bed in properly.Ive added some photos,any help welcome thanks.

3 Attachments

Put some tension in and see. Looks Ok as far as I can see from the photies.

press/pull on the spokes a bit until they run straight from the elbow to where they cross.

Right I've got myself a 36h h plus son eero rim and a system ex flip flop track hum.

This is my first wheel build and I've messed it up a couple of times now already.

I've laced one side with 3 cross properly, I think, and I've flipped it over to do the leading spokes on the other side and the spokes don't seem to reach the holes.

I've tried loosening all the other spokes but its still not reaching.

Can anyone shed any light?

I can supply pictures if they would help you help me.

Thanks

You don't do all of one side first and then the other, you generally do the leading spokes first and then twist the hub and do the trailing spokes.

I'd suggest spending a few quid on the Roger Musson ebook at www.wheelpro.co.uk and learning to do it properly.

You don't do all of one side first and then the other, you generally do the leading spokes first and then twist the hub and do the trailing spokes.

I'd suggest spending a few quid on the Roger Musson ebook at www.wheelpro.co.uk and learning to do it properly.

That is what i did, I followed Sheldon Brown's wheel build http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html so I dont know what I did wrong :s

whats measurements and spoke lengths have you used?

Make sure you've done over-over-under correctly - the first spoke that you cross is generally very close to the hub so you might not notice that you've already gone over one.

whats measurements and spoke lengths have you used?

264mm I was given this by BLB, Fitzrovia and the sapim spoke calc

Make sure you've done over-over-under correctly - the first spoke that you cross is generally very close to the hub so you might not notice that you've already gone over one.

I've checked all the over-over-unders and they all seem to be fine.

36H Dura Ace hi flange track hubs laced 2.17 cross to 24H Planet X 50mm carbon rim, what's the worst that could happen?