Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

All seemed good but I recently noticed a clunk when braking. Assumed headset loose, no. Checked calliper tightness, ok.

Yesterday noticed when braking the whole rim jumps to the left (towards the disc) by 4 or 5 mm

Quick release not tight. Bearings shot? Does rim rock on the hub?

QR tight enough and no movement. Bearings are new in the dynamo so <6 months old. I’ll check the rim. It didn’t move after I’d built it.
Thanks.

Fork flex?the clunk might be from the pads,check the spring,or the disc is loose

Interesting. The questions I would initially ask myself are:

• Are the hub bearing loose?
  
• Is the wheel firmly affixed to the fork via bolts or quick-release?
  
• Here's a good one: If it's a thru-axel, is the outer diameter of the hub end-caps the same as the cut-out recesses that accept them on the inside of the fork legs? If the recesses in the fork are too big, the hub may move in relation to the thru-axel.
  
  

Hope that helps.

Spokes have become loose?
Do they still feel and sound tight?

Either your caliper isn't centred properly or, more likely, the wheel isn't dished properly and the rim is offset to one side. What did you use to make sure the rim is central on the hub?

Hi everyone,
Just received a brand new pair of Novatech hubs.
On close inspection I’ve noticed that there is slight bubbling or uneven finishing around some spoke holes.
One flange only, the rest are fine.
I was just wondering whether the spoke tension will cause the anodised to brittle/crack and water will cause early alloy oxidation?
Could this happen or am I worrying unnecessarily and I should just build them up?
Cheers

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Thanks for all the input. A nice weekend job now the sun’s out to re-check everything.
I suspect everything has bedded in and I should have spent more time making sure the spokes were sitting properly in the flange and the nipples in the rim.

For a track wheel you could be alright. Spokes have a fair impact of stiffness. Flange spacing us even more important.

If the flange spacing us narrow then using an asymmetric rim does not change that or the latter all stiffness of the wheel. What asymmetrical rims for is reduce lateral stiffness by 1 it 2% for a big gain in nds spoke tension. If the flange spacing us narrow then nds rear spokes tension is not a problem and an asymmetrical rim makes the wheel worse.

Offset only. Symmetric disc rims are on the cards. now where is that dollop of cash I need for my next order...

Actually mathematically increasing the total flange spacing has a impact. In practice it works to.

So for lateral stiffness it is marginally better for the extra spacing to be on the nds. There is one 11 speed road hub u use with an asymmetric rim that has 16mm/49mm spacing. The resulting wheel is very stiff. Spoke tension balance is o.k and even with tubeless tyres mounted the rear nds spokes won't slacken off under load. I did a test wheel with the cooked vermicelli noodle that is known as the stans 340 in 24h drilling and sapim race spokes and the wheel is actually quite useable.

Still a rear disc brake hub generally has 54mm flange spacing or 55mm for the rear which is better than a DT Swiss road hub so your winning. And most 11 speed road hubs have 55mm spacing so no better really.

If we all went back to 7 speed or better 5 speed then we could have hubs with less dish which is mdcc testers point.

a rear disc brake hub generally has 54mm flange spacing for the rear which is better than a DT Swiss road hub

The big win with disc hubs is that the extra 5mm OLN means the DS flange can be 2.5mm further out for any given freehub rotor width

If we all went back to 7 speed or better 5 speed then we could have hubs with less dish

Somebody on TTF suggested that once the manufacturers have got us all to buy into 1×12, they can start touting 3×5 as the new big thing. The proposition was that it would be based on greater drivetrain efficiency from straighter chain lines, but stronger wheels would be just as good a selling point :)

Did I lace this rear wheel up right? In terms of head/elbows in and out, pushing and pulling, etc. I can't understand any of the descriptions.

From this Shimano diagram:

it looks like I did it wrong on both sides but on the other hand it's not totally clear what the "rotating direction of wheel" means (presumably the top of the wheel rotates in that direction based on the diagram?).

I followed the Sheldon Brown instructions, surely he hasn't let me down??!?

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Yeah you did it opposite.

The Shimano way is necessary if there is very little clearance between the brake caliper and the spokes.

With the Shimano way, braking increase the tension on the spokes that will pull the dish of the wheel to the right, away from the brake caliper.

With the Sheldon lacing pattern, increased tension (braking) will pull the wheel to the left towards the caliper, and this might result in the spokes hitting the caliper. It’s very obvious while riding as you can hear a ping ping ping ping ping sound when braking.

You will most likely be fine, and if you do experience it you can rebuild later.

It might happen. But what's more likely is 135mm old rim brake bikes.

Ah right. I was more concerned about the fatigue on the spokes, apparently this way they break at the elbows sooner due to the different stresses. It's not tensioned up yet so I think I'll just take it apart again and relace it. No biggie.

Thanks for the help

With the Sheldon lacing pattern, increased tension (braking) will pull the wheel to the left towards the caliper, and this might result in the spokes hitting the caliper

But it pulls the last interleaved crossing away from the caliper, and that crossing it the one which is at about the right radius to be a problem if the clearance is tight, just as it is also the one which is close to the dérailleur cage on the drive side of the rear wheel.

I'll just take it apart again and relace it

I'm with Sheldon on this one. I've seen arguments for the other way, but I think they address a problem which doesn't actually manifest in properly built wheels over a normal lifespan, whereas pulling the interleaved crossing away from the brake caliper and dérailleur cage does seem to work.

Unlike you to disagree with Shimano.

Edit: I misunderstood your comment. Yeah, assuming that I build it properly I am not expecting that I'll be breaking spokes left/right/centre but might as well get it right in the first instance.

You think it's fine then?

You think it's fine then?

Yes.

not expecting that I'll be breaking spokes left/right/centre

No, that can only really happen with the FSA RD-600 or the even rarer Lew VT1 wheels, or God's Cog hubs. You can tell what a brilliant idea the centre flange was by the fact that only a company as large and diverse as FSA was able to recover from the embarrassment :)

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So did I do my front one correctly? Matches the Shimano thing up there! :)

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Pleased with how my new wheels turned out for my CAAD5 track. Long overdue upgrade.

DT Swiss R460 onto some Chinese front hub and Tensile double fixed rear.

Also pleased with my DIY trueing stand.

Pleased.