Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

A few turns with cone spanners and the wheel spins freely. Took almost a full turn to set up without any binding! Odd for a sealed cartridge hub.

Odd for a sealed cartridge hub.

The fact that it has cartridge bearings makes no difference to the preload set-up procedure, or the ability of a factory assembler to have a Friday afternoon moment. Alternative designs such as Novatec make use of the ability of deep-groove cartridges to accept axial loads in both directions to eliminate the preload feature, but the trade off is that there will always bee some end float if both hubshell and axle have fixed locating shoulders for the bearing races, and keeping that end float down to an acceptable limit means the locations of the shoulders have to be held to quite close tolerances.

Well at least ot sorted now.

Makes a lot of sense thanks, impeccable font of knowledge as always. Appreciated.

@cycleclinic absolutely, I'm a happy camper now, on the bike which works properly and is dialled in so I'm riding happy.

Measured everything myself, trice. Should I go with DT's recommended lengths or do you recommend ordering all spokes 1 mm shorter?

If you can get the right lengths, awesome. If 1mm shorter is cheaper, your choice.

Plug your numbers into edd spoke calculator and see what that gives you. This is a wheelset for your epic tour right?

Spoke length fine; 0.2mm probably within tolerance of DT's ability to cut spokes to a given length

the Dt swiss calculator also changes the length depending on which spoke thickness you chose, so i think it includes a factor for different spoke stretch... (compared to edds calculator)

more features = bestest :)

36 DT Alpine 3? Are you building wheels for a tank?

36 DT Alpine 3? Are you building wheels for a tank?

It's what I use on my tank :)

Yes

bit OTT especially for the front, unless you plan to carry a couple of 5 Kg front panniers on a disc braked bike with 203 mm rotors and hydraulic brakes... in which case, fair enough.

For a normal non loaded front wheel 36 DT Revolution are plenty and will last 20 years of use and abuse... regardless of your weight, saving you around 150 grams or so and a few grams of aerodynamic drag too

unless you plan to carry a couple of 5 Kg front panniers on a disc braked bike with 203 mm rotors and hydraulic brakes... in which case, fair enough.

I plan to do exactly that but 180 mm rotors and mechanical :-)

Don't go shorter... shorter is riskier than longer.... if they are long you can add some rim or spoke washers, if they are short there is not much you can do... well, you can get 14 mm DT nipples, but in the former case you are making better wheels, in the latter you are making them worse.

I would order 256 and 258

256mm will be fine for both sides. 1mm shorter on one side will not present a problem. Using 256 and 258mm will not be a problem either unless you run out of thread, that has happened to me which i why i dont like usinger longer than calculated. By the time you have bedded the spokes in there wont be a problem.

50x27mm Curve carbon clinchers. 95kg rider. 32h Ultegra hubs.
Any point in doing anything but 3x with a decent, butted spoke?

no

Where did you get 32 holes, wide and deep carbon rims?

Light Bicycle will do you a 65mm 36H drilling if you want no extra cost

A friends old Curve wheelset. Rims are labelled as DT Swiss.

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...and I just remembered, that I have a set of black Hope hubs in the garage. So now all that's left is choosing spokes and a builder...

If you have a modicum of patience and can methodically follow the steps, you could try a DIY build
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

Stiff rims are fairly easy to work with, so the ones you've got would be good ones to start with.

Wheel building stands are handy but for an occasional build, you can use your frame/forks and a couple of tywraps used for assessing the runout whilst truing and tensioning. Ive done 3 sets recently in the frame.

I've built plenty of wheels, but I'd rather have someone with carbon experience build these.

Carbon is easier than alu to build; as long as it's moulded flat you can't fuck em up