Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Do you mean grasping two pairs of spokes that go to the same side of the rim but that are at opposite sides of the hub (ie 12 and 6 o'clock positions)? Or do you mean grasping two spokes going to opposite sides of the rim?

Arup Sen (on here as @arup) is very good, if you can make it to deepest darkest SE London, and he's happy to use parts supplied by a customer. Condor Cycles will also do so, but IME they're a bit rubbish. I left some rims and hubs to be built up by them three weeks ago, having been assured categorically that they would be ready yesterday. They weren't, and they weren't ready today either. They didn't even have the spokes to do the build yet. I'm also somewhat miffed that when I dropped the hubs off they had track nuts on them, and now they don't (I retrieved the hubs and rims today so I can build them up myself).

tl;dr - @arup is good, Condor are a bit crap, but both will do it

Thanks for the info

Sorry to have on. Do I round up or down according to the stuff I posted up there?
Ta.

What is the cheapest option for a 9mm bolt thru front hub? For a cotic Escapade.

Probably Superstar , although if you can live with 36H you can have my Hope Pro2Evo for less.

Not the cheapest but I can thoroughly recommend the Hope hub mentioned by mdcc_tester. I have the 32 spoke version and am very impressed.

I'm planning to build my first set of wheels. They'll be disc, tubeless. Anything that I need to lookout for? is there any difference building tubeless wheels to regular rims?

is there any difference building tubeless wheels to regular rims?

Only if you're using Mavic's FORE-drilled UST rims or some other proper tubeless rim.

I want to give wheel building a go.

Where do I start?

The hubs would be Hope Mono RS and rim Pacenti SL23 650b.

Specs for hubs: http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/2016-UPDATED-HOPE-HUBS-SPOKE-OFFSET-AND-PCD3.pdf

I tried the DT spoke calculator and it has given me following results for 2x lacing all round:
Rear right: 272mm
Rear left: 277mm
Front both: 278mm

I dont understand what spokes I would need. I want all year round wheelset for rim brakes and I weigh 63/65kg.

Cx rays.

how do they differ from laser? I think I have 1 wheelset with Sapim race and one with CX rays ..

I just thought, which ones are pricy which ones would you buy.

Laser are cheaper than CX rays but weigh about same ..

I think it's strength (tensile) that counts most. I don't know much about wheels. I'd wait for an expert to rationalise the choice you should make.

(I don't know much tbh)

Thanks. I'll be using Notubes Crest or something similar, so should be straight forward.

I dont understand what spokes I would need.

DT Comp, Sapim Race, Alpina DB1.7

@mdcc_tester,
thanks for all the help so far
so ive rebuilt the Archetype rim with sapim race spokes radially with a reading off 25 on the parks tension meter (sorry dont have a conversion chart). wheel never pinged on its first ride until at 45 miles i went over a cattle grid at high speed and it pinged like a symphonic orchestra, do i still need more tension? (written on the cans of stella)

wheel never pinged on its first ride until at 45 miles i went over a cattle grid at high speed and it pinged like a symphonic orchestra

Sounds like the spokes were wound up, and released the first time they hit a decent bump. Properly built wheels shouldn't make noises.

thanks tester, laser no good? Sapim race are not bad though.

laser no good?

Not so much "no good" as "no point"

Cx ray is Laser hammered flat.
Lasers wind up a lot especially when not lubricated properly.

Cx ray has same stiffness and weight as lasers. Lots of cash for not much bang. Easy to build with since you can easily control the wind up.

Id do what tester said to do. Comps, races or suchlike. Maybe pillar 1422 aero spokes?
Also sl23 is a rim that's stiff and strong and light but the alloy is really soft and wears super quick under shit conditions and prolonged braking.
I wouldn't put that on a commuter

Hello all... some advice and some help needed!

I'm building a wheelset for a neo-retro project that will also be shared across my other bikes as and when required. I've got some 32h Hope Mono RS (possibly the ones @amey was planning to build with, cheers again) and I want to lace them up to some grey rims and then hand them into my lbs to finish off... I need some rim and spoke advice...

Rims - H+Son Archetype/TB14 in grey or Rigida/Ryde Grizzly CSS or something else wide and carbide/ceramic coated - any recommendations? I'd really like the brake track to stay grey/black... or if this is not possible then I may opt for some 23mm wide silver rims... again, any recommendations?

Spokes - I don't know - I assume DT Comp or Sapim Race as recommended by mdcctester? wheels will be laced 3 cross front and rear

Lastly, can anyone point me in the direction of a trusted online spoke length calculator?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

If the aluminium brake track is to stay grey long term, the only option will be some genuine ceramic coated rim (probably from Mavic) that probably is no longer manufactured and won't be available in a width of 23mm.
The grey coating on the rims you mention is just anodising. Grey 'hard' anodising on the rims mentioned may resist colour fading better than black or other coloured anodising, but will still eventually turn silver with use.