Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Thanks for the replies.
Got it but slightly bummed that his statement didn't stand true.
Possibly the differences he encountered in wheel strength, between wheel-sets were attributed solely to the quality of the build itself, e.g., one properly laced wheel set not tensioned correctly vs the subsequent ones laced like this but with more attention/experience...
He was quite confident with his workmanship and claimed to have experience in mtbing, offering a full refund if anything went wrong too.
Would you consider it inappropriate to ask for a small refund to get the wheels rebuild?
I don't know how to play this one out.

Theres no harm in trying. I would be annoyed if I received a wheelset like this, regardless of how confident the seller/builder might be. I would personally rebuild the wheels lacing them the way everyone else does, the correct way.

I know what it is like to have a wheel completely finished and by not paying attention have to redo the spokes because the valve is being crossed by spokes, still respoke them though;)

"I know what it is like to have a wheel completely finished and by not paying attention have to redo the spokes because the valve is being crossed by spokes, still respoke them though;)"

me too - though a pump will still easily fit on the valve, so it makes no difference

"the 'cross' over the value hole is intentional and adds extra strength to the build. This is how he build all the wheels he raced on. " -a load of bollocks, neither a benefit nor a deficit.

label position ,valve position, hub decal position. all marginal (or actually completely irrelevant) compared to the tension, true-ness and de-stressing

respoke if you've got time you need to fill with busy work

Is it possible to replace a broken spoke with a new one without taking off the tyre?
Its just that the tyres are tubular and it was such a nightmare getting them on in the first place.

Is the nipple still poking through? If not, then you will almost certainly have to remove at least a section of tyre to get a new nipple seated.

Yes it is, i think it could work, i have unscrewed the old one and just need a suitable replacement.

Ive done it a few times. easy peasy

Hmmm..
New spoke, 40 year old nipple, Compatible, Im not so sure.
I may need to find a spoke with an imperial thread, not so easy peasy.

What kind of lacing is on the rear one on this wheelset here: http://www.lfgss.com/thread95740.html

Three cross / 3X.

specifically 32 spoke tied & soldered 3 cross.

Anyone in central or SW london build wheels? I need a front rim replaced. Will provide the rim, of course.

Can do. In Clapham/Battersea. Beer money. PM me if I'm on the radar.

Quick wheel question, I've measured my frame to be 124mm across the dropouts (although I was under the impression 126mm was the standard and it's possibly a mis-measure/slightly out).

Anyway, I want to build a singlespeed freewheel wheel for it, is a 120mm hub going to be too narrow? It's only 2mm out either side and I can't seem to find any 124mm hubs. Was thinking if it's too far to bend the frame could put a 2mm washer on each side of the axle to space out? It's a steel frame by the way.

No problem squishing a 126mm steel frame (especially if it's already a bit narrow) onto a 120mm hub

Tidy, cheers. I was expecting/hoping that was the case as its a pretty minimal deflection. Now to learn to to build wheels.

I guess this is the right place for my question... If my rear spacing is 132.5mm, do I go for a 130mm or 135mm rear hub? Which is better and why?

The extra width of 135mm hubs is normally just to allow for disc brake rotor mounts, no? So, if you're using disc brakes, 135mm. If it's a normal road hub it'll almost certainly be 130mm, even if it's 11-speed compatible (though it sounds like the new 11-speed Shimano standard is 131mm).

In any case, the wider the hub flanges are spaced apart, the stronger the wheel will be, so that's the key factor if there's no requirement for discs.

The hubs I'm looking at are road hubs but they come in 130 and 135 varieties. No discs involved. I want to believe you, Regal, but I'm going to wait for an opinion or two more before I hit the button. :)

Hold up. Say I want to upgrade my groupset in the not-so-distant future and the standard is 11-speed. I'm using 10 speed at the mo. Do I need to bare this in mind? I'd like a wheelset that will last a while preferably.

Edit - I've just looked up how much 11-speed cassettes cost. Fuck that.

What hubs are you looking at? You can upgrade some rear hubs from 10- to 11-speed but it's usually a case of a new axle and freehub body, which isn't cheap, especially if it's a Chris King or something.

As an example, Chris King 'classic' road hubs can be converted from 130 to 135 whereas the R45 road hubs can't - but the R45 has the drive side flange further out from the centre line, theoretically making for a stronger wheel due to the better bracing angles.

I'm looking at the Hope Pro3 jobbies.

Ok. Only difference between the 130 & 135 versions of the Pro 3 seems to be a 5mm larger non-driveside spacer, so the flanges are going to be 2.5mm further towards the driveside than the 130 version. Which will make a slightly stronger wheel. So it might be worth going for the 135.

I'll let someone else weigh in now... ;)