Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I had to rebuild a front wheel, which had a 2 x pattern not interlaced, built by a rather well known builder. The user came to me complaining that his front wheel was completely unreliable when turning into a corner and had lost confidence in the wheel and the builder... I was perplexed, as a 24 x 2 crossed Velocity A 23 front should be fine even with laser spokes... until I saw the spokes were not interlaced. I had an "exchange of ideas" with the builder who did the original job via e-mail, I think we both agreed to disagree and he probably thought I was an idiot, just in the same way I thought he was...
But being an idiot who is in the right is better than being an idiot who is in the wrong...

So I'm getting the parts together for a wheel build, entered all the details into https://leonard.io/edd/ and got told this as the answer, and got told the below as my answer.
Couple of questions if anyone would be able to help me:

• Do the spoke lengths look right? I'm building them 3 cross so I only need spokes that are 288.5/ 289.7 / 288.4 / 287.3 right? I'm confused as they all seem very similar in length and I was told there would normally be a greater difference.
  
• Is it better for me to round the lengths up or down - could I get away with only getting 288mm spokes?
  
  

Thanks!

1 Attachment

288 with 286 for rear DS

the fact you're going 3x with 36 spokes makes it seem about right. But double check with the dt swiss calculator, it uses the same calculator as the edd one but also tells you recommended spoke length (as in not 289.7, but 288), double check you've got measurements right too, but all seems about right

If the tension is say X and the tension change is x then the bigger x/X is (i.e drop the tension and that will magically increase) the faster fatigue happens.

I don't think this is correct. Rate of fatigue is dependent on stress range (x in your case), (provided the spoke remains in tension), not the ratio of stress range to overall tension (x/X here).

I agree if spoke tensions are low enough that some lose tension altogether under riding loads then I should expect increased fatigue to the remaining spokes. But if tensions are high enough such that spokes remain tensile at all times, then the rate of fatigue should be same regardless of how high your tension is (assuming you are not exceeding yield obviously)

i would have to look up all my old texts on this from my degree to debate this one properly but i think you may be right. The low tension results in many spoke going slack and there fore earlh spoke breakage. Important to correct these mistakes.

I really need to try not interlacing to see what effect it has. If you are right ugo it should be something you can feel while loading the rim with the axle on a block of wood. I am not sure why i have always interlaced spokes apart from ot is what i have always done.

But if tensions are high enough such that spokes remain tensile at all
times, then the rate of fatigue should be same regardless of how high
your tension is (assuming you are not exceeding yield obviously)

Problem is the non drive side is normally low, if it gets particularly low, then it is pretty easy to have it with no tension at every revolution

Any recommendation on someone who could true up/remove the hop on my wheels before Friday?! Ideally SE9 or SE16 area. Normally I'd do it myself but don't have time and leave on Fri afternoon

@arup

Rat Race Cycles (SE15) - have done a speedy truing of my partner's wheels before. http://www.ratracecycles.com/

Anybody know of any polished silver 700c 32h rims (for approx 28c) other than..
mavic a119
pacenti
H plus TB14
Ambrosio
halo retro
Kinsin ADSN
VO megabucks jobs

So far the Kinsin probably gets the vote, £22 a piece, almost square section, 510g and single eyeletted, reasonable but still a bit heavy and round in profile

I built a pair of the Kinlin ADSN, nice rim, wide-ish. Good wheels

Rigida Chrina come in silver, not shiny but could be worth a punt.

Kinlin ADHN looks like the nuts though, for that price. Single eyelets though.

letters are hard :(

Single eyelets though.

Not really a problem IMHO, if build well, and plenty of holes (frnar), it'll be fine.

Cross posted from AQA: hoping someone can help. I have Sovos hub that is the older style that Sheldon talks about here. I guess it's a long shot but anyone have any idea where I can fins (or bodge) a lockring for it? The standard one I have doesn't fit.

I guess it's a long shot but anyone have any idea where I can fins (or bodge) a lockring for it?

One off lock rings are £50, and you need to send me the hub so that the thread fit can be checked. In other words, bin it and buy a Novatec.

Cheers, I guessed it would pricey to get one made especially. I can still use a freewheel on the otherside so not entirley a waste but its new wheel time for fixed riding.

Mavic MA2

#nintiestroll

Cheers guys, wasn't sure if the kinlin was a known rim or not. For the use is going to see on my gfs summer town bike I think they will do the job. saw some pacenti at bespoke that would be the ideal, £72 each though!

Going to be built into a classic looking mixte, ultegra 6600 hubs chosen for quality and shiney finish, aci db spokes with brass head washers (cos of classic look and narrow flange depth?, and I have a fancy for some uncoated/ ppolished brass nipples. Can they so be bought or are people stripping the coating off regular brass nipples?
Bike will be finished off with vo hammered mudguards

brass head washers (cos of classic look and narrow flange depth?

You shouldn't need them with those spokes and hubs.

wasn't sure if the kinlin was a known rim

All the other brands who put their stickers on Kinlin rims would rather they weren't well known :-)