Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

My Open Pro rim 105 hub keeps unwinding (slowly) non drive side. d/s is 21 on the Parktool scale, 15 on non d/s spokes are dt swiss double butted 1.8.

Any ideas what could be cause, other than my shonky build skills? Front is true, done same miles since build on same bike.

tension sounds very low, I'd have it at at least 24 on the drive side. think my rear double fixed open pro wheel is 25 on both sides. thats with dt champ, I go pretty high because of my weight, the rim can take it, no signs of cracks at the eyelets. when its too high you'll know

Sounds the wrong way round if you're looking to improve the spoke bracing angle on the dished side. Just stick to 3x all round and one kind of spoke, keeping it simple has worked fine for generations.

I'd take DT Alpine III over Sapim Strong, the thin middles on the DT spokes promote load sharing by being more stretchy

Field report for above advice from MDCC:

3 weeks, 2000km (London to South of France through the Alps) 20kgs weight on the rack, 85kgs in the saddle, result...
perfect:) straight as a dye, no breakages no probs, rock solid, no shimmies, flying down L'Iseran:)

thanks MDCC, solid advice.

I'm off the eat rice for a couple of days:)

tension sounds very low, I'd have it at at least 24 on the drive side. think my rear double fixed open pro wheel is 25 on both sides. thats with dt champ, I go pretty high because of my weight, the rim can take it, no signs of cracks at the eyelets. when its too high you'll know

ok cheers, that'll convert to about 148 doofers tho, which is quite a lot more than the rim is rated at I thought?

I'm also looking for a wheelbuilder to repair a broken spoke. Whats in east ?

If it's just a broken spoke I'd urge you to have a go yourself, it's not rocket science. We've got a bit of advice here to get you started;

http://www.madegood.org/bikes/library/general-information-on-adjusting-spokes/

tension sounds very low, I'd have it at at least 24 on the drive side. think my rear double fixed open pro wheel is 25 on both sides. thats with dt champ, I go pretty high because of my weight, the rim can take it, no signs of cracks at the eyelets. when its too high you'll know

I think 23 is about 125-130 kgF on 1.8 spokes, right? You can certainly do that on an Open Pro. They're strong. That's what I normally go to on a good rim on a non-dished wheel so 24 DS and whatever the NDS comes out as (18ish?) should be ok. The rim will pull out of true when you stress relieve it if you've gone too high.

Ok, makes sense, many thanks both.

The spoke length calculator is giving me these measurements:

Rear

• Spoke length left: 289.8
  
• Spoke length right: 289.2
  
  

Front

• Spoke length left: 289.7
  
• Spoke length right: 289.7
  
  

Will I be OK buying 290mm spokes for the whole build?

butted spokes dont actually stretch, they bend differently to plain gauge when the stress is distributed over a wider area

290 for the whole job is perfectly fine

What I have do wrong?
This shoud be 28h 2-cross, but...Fuck.

Looks you've laced it 3-cross.

Looks you've laced it 3-cross.

Ah, I meant to wrote 3-cross. Hope it's all right then.

Have you interlaced at the first crossing? Looks possible, but you need to provide a decent picture if you want a decent answer.

Here's a maybe bit better pic.

we need a close up of the middle of the wheel, just the hub and a couple of inches of spoke

Ok. I think this will do.

Looks OK, the spokes will straighten out once they are tight. I'm not sure that I would have interlaced a 28h 3x because the final crossing is still quite near the hub. Then again, I probably wouldn't even do 28h 3x at all because as you can see it verges on going past tangential - a slightly larger flange or a slightly deeper rim and they would be.

Having said all that, I expect they will be fine when finished

hard to see, but from the first pic, it looks like the two spokes furthest from the valve hole need to swap the holes they go to. It looks like you break the pattern of successive spoke holes to alternate sides of the hub there.

Another pattern to check is: at the rim spokes should come in pairs, 2 leading, 2 trailing, 2 leading and so on. Opposite the valve hole you have alternate spokes leading and trailing.

Still not there...But I'm not quitting before I get ths done!
This looks maybe ok:

But the other side is really fuck'd up. It goes only over-under and not over-over-under how it's shoud to go:

You've built it 2-cross. Move the spokes 2 holes further round the rim.

You've built it 2-cross. Move the spokes 2 holes further round the rim.

Do you mean 2 holes futher with all of the spokes or only with those crossing spokes?

On the side laced 2-cross, at the rim find two spokes that are next to each other (ignoring the spoke from the other side between them) and that don't cross but run parallel-ish. Release them, un-weave them from the other spokes, then weave them past each other and lace them into each other's rim holes. i.e. each is now 2 holes further from being laced into the rim hole opposite it's hub hole. Do the same for the other 6 pairs of such spokes on that side.

Unless you really did want a 2-cross wheel, in which case do roughly the reverse on the 3-cross side instead. i.e. pick a pair that share a woven outer cross and swap them to un-cross them. As you do subsequent pairs you'll have to weave them where they cross adjacent spokes you've already done.

i.e. For a 3-cross wheel:

For a 2-cross wheel:

2 Attachments

But even if this works, the valve hole will be in the wrong place in the pattern. Perhaps time to start again.