Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • You could always go halfway?

    Sapim D-Light

  • If you aren't super confident about pattern and building, consider going 24/28 for better build tolerances and stiffer wheel for all your out-of-saddle climbing.

  • consider going 24/28 for better build tolerances and stiffer wheel

    A 16:8 24-spoke wheel will actually be stiffer (axially, which is what matters, torsionally which hardly matters but doesn't hurt, and not radially which might actually be a benefit) than 14:14 28-spoke one.

  • If you aren't super confident about pattern and building, consider going 24/28 for better build tolerances and stiffer wheel for all your out-of-saddle climbing.

    I've built a fair share of wheels, but they have always been either 3x, 2x or radial. So 16:8 will be a new challenge. If I can't figure it out I'll take it to someone who can. Just want to make the best decision from a hardware perspective right now.

    A 16:8 24-spoke wheel will actually be stiffer (axially, which is what matters, torsionally which hardly matters but doesn't hurt, and not radially which might actually be a benefit) than 14:14 28-spoke one.

    So you recommend the 16:8 ? Am thinking 2x for the DS and either radial or 1x for NDS. Logical?

    For the front it will be 20h, probably radial.

  • So you recommend the 16:8 ?

    Yes. Once you've seen the obvious rightness of the 2:1 pattern for heavily dished rim-brake wheels, you start to wonder how we got so far without its becoming the default.

    16 spokes on the drive side is the same as a 32-spoke wheel, so I'd probably go with the 32-spoke default of 3X unless there's some compelling reason to do otherwise. Everybody else seems to go for radial NDS on 2:1 wheels, and I can't think of a reason to disagree.

  • If you want a 16:8 pattern that's fine, but check the rim is either NON directionally drilled or it is specifically drilled for a 2:1 pattern.

  • Oh I see, otherwise the spokes will come in at a sharp angle every other hole. Will have to enquire about that. Thanks

  • And of course you need a hub specially drilled for that too

  • Yep, hub I can specify for the drilling. Found a photo of the rim, kind of hard to tell but looks non directional to me?
    http://www.bikehubstore.com/C22w-p/c22.htm

  • Why not ask BHS whether they've built any up in 16:8 lacing?

  • Yeah did so just after, response was "The holes are slightly offset, not enough to make a 16:8 build impossible, but also not ideal".

    Think I'll give it a miss then and stick with 12:12 or maybe move up to a 28h rear. Don't want to have nipples sitting at a nasty angle and it seems centre drilled 23mm wide rims do not exist.

  • .

  • I recently was out of Kinlin XR 300 and bought a pair of Halo Mercury rims from Wynstanleys and they sent me a 24 16:8 drilled.. I sent it back because it was not what I wanted... maybe you could try and retrieve that route? Problem is their website doesn't seem to be very clear on that, unless they have amended it since. Worth a look, they are very decent rims

    EDIT: website is now amended...
    http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/65237/Halo_Mercury_240S_700c_Road_Rim

    You can pair it with a normal front one, they have that one too, only thing the decals are slightly different and they can't be removed, if you care about these things

  • The Halo 16:8 drilled Mercurys and Calibers are skinny though, which is a bit old fashioned. If I had to choose between wide rims and 2:1 lacing, I'd probably go with the wide rims even if it meant adding more spokes to keep the mechanical properties of the 16-spoke drive side.

  • Yep, I don't like skinny rims either, but hey oh, some do...

  • Can you get black Archetypes without the white writing? Failing that, can you remove the writing?

  • If you're getting rims from america, is it worth considering Flo, which are are ~100g heavier but I'd imagine much more arro?

  • You can remove the decals, it's not difficult...
    Kinlin 279 is a very similar rim, considerably cheaper and with no decals, any good for you?

  • Little repost for clarity

  • plus bike hub store's new one:
    BHS C31w Clincher - 31mm Deep - 24mm Wide - 485 grams
    http://www.bikehubstore.com/C31-p/c31.htm

  • Yeah, top player.

  • Sounds very light for a rim to brake on of that size. I fear (as the image points out) there isn't much to brake on

  • Nonparallel brake tracks too by the looks of things.

  • Can anyone explain to me this obsession for BHS?
    I do understand if you want Gigantex rims it is the place to go, but importing alloy rims and taiwanese hubs, with import duties and the hassle involved to save a couple of quid at best... that is a bit beyond me...
    When you can get 23 mm rims from 35-55 quid from the UK, I really don't see the point...

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

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