Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Can you elaborate on why a 50mm carbon rim isn't a good idea for urban riding? It's a real question, no sarcasm

  • If you can afford the replacements when you crack it, it's fine, and a metal rim will dent beyond repair on the same hit. The main issue is your idea of 24h rim to 32h hub, it's just far more of a PITA than is justified. 16/8 is a good idea for a highly dished wheel, but it really needs specifically drilled hubs and rims to be optimised, and I'm guessing your use case has little or no dish. If you want to pose about on a 50mm carbon rim, just get a ready made 24 spoke carbon wheel based on a 24h Novatec flip-flop hub, or if you already have the 32h hub and want a project, buy a 32h rim.

  • It will be a dished wheel since I'm gonna use a 5/6s freewheel with it. I cannot use these ready made wheels with flip flop hubs, they're not compatible with multispeed freewheels ... I don't already have the hub, but I can't find any 24h hub that fits my needs.
    Also, what do you mean by "PITA" ? I'm not a native speaker so I'm a bit lost

  • Pain In The Archdiocese

  • Oh well, I see.
    I've seen multiple 8:16 builds on a 32h hub, and I found a spoke length calculator that's compatible with this type of lacing. Ofc it will be more complicated than a regular lacing but I don't mind the extra difficulty.
    I'm mainly worried about the rim

  • Anyone know of a source for 18h XR31t rims?

  • I'm mainly worried about the rim

    If you're worried, get a metal one. At least it will be cheaper when it breaks. You can get 32h carbon rims, but I can't think of a reason why you'd want to unless you're racing on tandem.

  • source for 18h XR31t

    In the usual run of things, BHS, but they are out of stock. Given the current supply chain shitstorm, I can't imagine 18h rims being on anybody's list of priority items to restock

  • I haven't come across that shop before so thanks for the recommendation. What's the betting a replacement matching 20h hub will also be out of stock...

  • How many do you need?

  • I only need one but could take two if you can do a good price? Do you have any asym rears as well?

  • They only come in symmetric version.
    £70 for the pair.

  • Thanks - PM'd

  • First attempt at wheel building. Ordering new spokes and various spoke length calculators have the lengths at 260.5 and 261.3. Better to size up (261/262) or size down? I’m assuming up as there’s scope on the time to take any small excess length?

  • Always round down

  • Thanks :)

    What’s the rationale? Makes sure the spokes have enough thread to tension correctly?

  • yes, and some spokes tend to lenghten after the wheelbuild ( esp. the thinner ones with 1,6 or 1,5 mm middle part)

  • Any tips on bearing removal on the Bitex RAF12? Can't really get much purchase on the bearing inner ring with internal spacer in the way.

  • If it's like other hubs the spacer can be persuaded to move one side then you punch the bearings out

  • I’m sure this bitex hub (pretty sure it’s bitex) has been identified before but I can’t find where.. I’m after the axle kit to convert it from 130mm to 135mm spacing.


    1 Attachment

    • B1226537-D3D2-4F70-A56B-A95FFD8234BC.jpeg
  • Looks like a RAR12 to me.

  • Looks correct, maybe mine’s a slightly older version though. Thanks guyz

  • I'm on my fifth wheel build and have a problem....

    rebuilding a DT Swiss 240 centrelock onto a Stans Crest after previous rims cracked around the spoke holes. I've laced it and trued it but I've currently got 13 (Park Tool - 98kfg) on the drive side and 6 (Park tool - 53kfg) on the non-drive side and its still not dished correctly.
    I either need to increase the tension on the drive side and take it over the limit on the drive side or decrease it on the non-drive side?

    Anybody help?

  • Both.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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