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• #10952
If you can afford the replacements when you crack it, it's fine, and a metal rim will dent beyond repair on the same hit. The main issue is your idea of 24h rim to 32h hub, it's just far more of a PITA than is justified. 16/8 is a good idea for a highly dished wheel, but it really needs specifically drilled hubs and rims to be optimised, and I'm guessing your use case has little or no dish. If you want to pose about on a 50mm carbon rim, just get a ready made 24 spoke carbon wheel based on a 24h Novatec flip-flop hub, or if you already have the 32h hub and want a project, buy a 32h rim.
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• #10953
It will be a dished wheel since I'm gonna use a 5/6s freewheel with it. I cannot use these ready made wheels with flip flop hubs, they're not compatible with multispeed freewheels ... I don't already have the hub, but I can't find any 24h hub that fits my needs.
Also, what do you mean by "PITA" ? I'm not a native speaker so I'm a bit lost -
• #10954
Pain In The Archdiocese
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• #10955
Oh well, I see.
I've seen multiple 8:16 builds on a 32h hub, and I found a spoke length calculator that's compatible with this type of lacing. Ofc it will be more complicated than a regular lacing but I don't mind the extra difficulty.
I'm mainly worried about the rim -
• #10956
Anyone know of a source for 18h XR31t rims?
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• #10957
I'm mainly worried about the rim
If you're worried, get a metal one. At least it will be cheaper when it breaks. You can get 32h carbon rims, but I can't think of a reason why you'd want to unless you're racing on tandem.
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• #10959
I haven't come across that shop before so thanks for the recommendation. What's the betting a replacement matching 20h hub will also be out of stock...
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• #10960
How many do you need?
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• #10961
I only need one but could take two if you can do a good price? Do you have any asym rears as well?
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• #10962
They only come in symmetric version.
£70 for the pair. -
• #10963
Thanks - PM'd
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• #10964
First attempt at wheel building. Ordering new spokes and various spoke length calculators have the lengths at 260.5 and 261.3. Better to size up (261/262) or size down? I’m assuming up as there’s scope on the time to take any small excess length?
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• #10965
Always round down
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• #10966
Thanks :)
What’s the rationale? Makes sure the spokes have enough thread to tension correctly?
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• #10967
yes, and some spokes tend to lenghten after the wheelbuild ( esp. the thinner ones with 1,6 or 1,5 mm middle part)
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• #10968
Any tips on bearing removal on the Bitex RAF12? Can't really get much purchase on the bearing inner ring with internal spacer in the way.
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• #10969
If it's like other hubs the spacer can be persuaded to move one side then you punch the bearings out
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• #10970
I’m sure this bitex hub (pretty sure it’s bitex) has been identified before but I can’t find where.. I’m after the axle kit to convert it from 130mm to 135mm spacing.
1 Attachment
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• #10971
Looks like a RAR12 to me.
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• #10972
https://bitexhubs.co.uk/product/rar12/
Looks like that to me too. -
• #10973
Looks correct, maybe mine’s a slightly older version though. Thanks guyz
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• #10974
I'm on my fifth wheel build and have a problem....
rebuilding a DT Swiss 240 centrelock onto a Stans Crest after previous rims cracked around the spoke holes. I've laced it and trued it but I've currently got 13 (Park Tool - 98kfg) on the drive side and 6 (Park tool - 53kfg) on the non-drive side and its still not dished correctly.
I either need to increase the tension on the drive side and take it over the limit on the drive side or decrease it on the non-drive side?Anybody help?
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• #10975
Both.
Can you elaborate on why a 50mm carbon rim isn't a good idea for urban riding? It's a real question, no sarcasm