Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Has anyone got experience with Kinlin TL-23 650b?

I’ve got some that I haven’t built up yet, seem nice as kinlin rims generally do but no real use experience. Keen to hear what people think too

I have the TL-29 in 29er flavour and they're really nice.

How easily do they ding when riding low pressure? I have a tendency to dent rims lately..

I don't have any dings so far but then again haven't used them super aggressively.

Aside from the go to Kinlin, what are other forum favorites/approved 650b rims? Alloy, 32h, <30mm internal.

Arkane’s effort are good. Probably Kinlin but I’m not sure. Well specced, built up nicely.

Having spoken to @broken_777, Arkane does offer Kinlin rims, but I understand their own branded rims are not-kinlin.

Yep I kind of knew this. I'm riding a pair of his 27.5 rims and they're excellent.

Yeah, supposed to be better quality all around compared to Kinlin (which are already quite good). Comparable to the HED and Easton Alloy rims.

The wife hates me...

Anyone got a spoke nipple box/holder? That’s the most annoying thing atm!

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After much sitting on the fence I've decided to go down the custom wheelset path after realising that it isn't horrendously expensive and gives me the chance to nerd out a bit on components that I normally overlook. This is for an MGOOF project so weight and performance aren't my guiding criteria. That said, if these can be achieved without spending big £, it would obviously be nice to be as light and stiff as possible. Which leads nicely to my question on spokes.

First, some context:

• 45mm deep carbon rims (R45 from Light bicycle), 20h front, 24h rear
  
• Bitex RA12 hubs (silver)
  
• I weigh 71kg ±2
  
• Rim brake
  
  

I've been looking at Sapim's range as it was easiest for a layman like me to understand. CX ray I needed no introduction to. But at around £2.50/spoke this is excessive for a non-aero frame. So I'm leaning more towards the Lasers or D-lights. Lasers get a bad rep from what I've seen - are they that much of a pain? The D-lights seem to be solid but with a minor weight penalty. I'm also thinking that I could maybe put lasers on the front and d-lights on the rear - is this a good way to go? In case it makes a difference, I'm going for silver spokes and nipples. And brass vs. alloy nipples?

Big thanks in advance for any advice. And if I should be considering Pillars or DT offerings I'm happy to consider them. Ta

MGOOF

GBOGH

If you're not getting CX-Rays, get Sapim Race, DT Comp or some other conventional 14/16g double butted spoke. Skinny round spokes confer no advantage which would compensate for the increase in cost and irritation.

What's the consensus on here between Hope RS4 disc hubs and DT Swiss 350 disc hubs? Or is there something else worth considering in this price range? Will be built with some LB 45mm rims.

I have a wheelset with those exact rims and hubs, build by LB with Pillar spokes and (at my request) brass nipples. Sapim Race are far easier to build something stiff. I would probably have gone for CX Ray front and Race rear if I'd built mine.

Very similar. Look at the ratchet / pawl systems and see if you prefer either, I prefer hopes; mainly because of the cnc machining and finishing, to me the dt Swiss could be anything with a label on.

New addition to the stand

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Use this at one workshop or just a big allen key at another, work the same.

Yeah I agree, will go Hope I think

I think Lasers/D-Light have their place (used that combination on a pair of underbuilt 28/32 rims).
According to this deep section carbon rims with lightweight spokes might produce some undesirable results.

When you start climbing or sprinting on a carbon wheel, the stiff rim tends to want to stay perfectly straight – relative to itself.
This gets compounded by the fact that most “race” wheels have thin aerodynamic spokes – AND not very many of them. On top of that, in very recent years, we have also seen carbon rims grow in both width and depth – subsequently gaining both lateral and radial stiffness.
What this adds up to is the perfect wheel storm: An astoundingly stiff, deep-section carbon rim – strapped on to a handful of thin aero spokes. The stiff rim can literally overpower the spokes. If your rim rubs your rear brake pads, this is probably why.

i would concur. close-up, hope rs4 looks a bit better than dt350. on another hand, i might be wrong, but dt350 will be lighter.

Does the DT require a proprietary tool to service?

brass nipples all the way when your wanna ride all year. lasers are a little more stretchy than thicker spokes in terms of building with them, thus maybe resulting in more "pain-in-the-ass" moments for the builder. I have used a wheelset for 5-ish years with laser spokes, 40mm alu rims and 20/24 holes and they are still fine. your plan with laser front and d-light rear seems sound.

they require a ring nut removal tool to get at the drive side bearing - also if you dont service these semi regularly then they can be a real pain to remove, even when you do have the tool.

I bought a set of quite old 350s off here recently and the rear needed a bearing replacement, but after doing the non drive side I tried to do the drive side and couldnt get the ring nut out. However after re-assembly the hub feels way better. I think the non drive side obviously gets a lot more wear due to it being closer to the water and grime etc.

I think the free hub bearings look pretty easy to replace too - thats the next job for me

Really like that base you have for the TS2.2. Did you have it CNC'd?