Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

TB14 to Novatec BDW hubs, 32H 3x comes out as 294.7mm on the rear and 295.3mm on the front. Guessing I should probably go with 294mm for the rear and 296mm for the front?

What's the weight saving/penalty of revs/alpines vs standard DT competitions?

What length nipples should I buy?

TB14 to Novatec BDW hubs, 32H 3x comes out as 294.7mm on the rear and 295.3mm on the front. Guessing I should probably go with 294mm for the rear and 296mm for the front?

What's the weight saving/penalty of revs/alpines vs standard DT competitions?

What length nipples should I buy?

294 will be OK on the front too, if you can't get 295.
Weight saving isn't worth having, if you want faster wheels use fewer DT Comps rather than the same number of Revs
Use whatever nipple length you used in your calculations, but 12mm is all you need - longer nips are for rims with a long distance from nipple seat to inner diameter of the rim, usually V-shaped ones.

open pro to campy record high flange 36h 3 cross

anyone built these recently ? looking for spoke legth

DT Spoke Calculator >>>>>

they don't list record hubs ?

tried this one but their measurements don't seem right
http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator/

checked arups but no erd for rims
measured erd following arups's video .... with my hands playing a oscar nominated role full of emotion and pathos in the video , but my measurements seem not to match anything on line i got 582 or so for erd but web says 605 ?

i don't trust myself and need a 2nd opinion to feel happy / confident i got it right
measure twice cut one as the old addage goes

i've got a couple of numbers

293.8 http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator/
and
289.1 http://leonard.io/edd/

mavic rims erd has been discussed a bit earlier in this thread, i remember arup saying for the open pro's and open sports it varies between 605mm and 610mm due to their nipple seat diameter. On the edd one (imo the best in terms of ease of use and) it adds 3mm to the nipple seat diameter to get the erd - 605mm.

So the next thing is your hubs, you need to measure the flange height and flange distance from centre on the hubs. edd doesn't list them (i think) because they're not used so often. This is best done with vernier callipers if you have them though. if you tell me those measurements ( http://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure ) and the number of spokes, and lacing patterns, i'll give a second opinion :)

sat in my front room measuring all the things yesterday
i had a tab open on my browser on how to use vernier gauge
that leaonard tips on what to measure on another arups's website and data base on a third

so i get the following

campy record pista high flange 36h 3 cross hub to mavic open sup cd rim
front - 288mm

campy record pista high flange ( single sided hub ) 36h 3 cross hub to mavic open sup cd rim
rear - 294 and 291mm non drive side and drive side respectively

and finally
dura ace hb-7600 to velocity deep v 650 32h 3 cross
front - 256mm

Thanks D.
Anyone know where to source internal nipples? I'm drawing only expensive eBay stuff ATM

I do.

24/7 cycle shop sells the alloy ones for £1.30 a pair or £1.00 for four brass ones.

DCR Wheels doesn't list them, but I asked and he said he sells the alloy ones for 35p each.

Here is the tool you will need to turn them.

I asked for them in Condor and they said no and pointed me to Strada Wheels. To Strada Wheels I wrote "I am looking for a source of Sapim aluminium alloy inverted nipples.
Do you sell these?" to which they replied "Thanks for your enquiry, we don't sell spokes individually as they are difficult to source and we prefer to keep them for our customers." and pointed me to 24/7 which I had already found.

£1.30 a pair

Are they tapping the threads with unicorn horns?

Thank you Polka Dot but I've already ordered them from Bdop. They're already in fedex's London depot so will turn up this week. The tool I already have.

Has anyone handled a DT Swiss RR440 rim yet and can comment on the actual ERD? DT claim 599mm, but want to check before ordering the rims and spokes.

per sheldon brown

The "trailing" spokes pull harder under drive torque to make the rim turn, and the "leading" spokes contribute by pulling less hard under driving torque. Each group of spokes contributes equally in its own way to turning the rim to keep up with the hub.

On a front wheel does this mean you have to always mount the wheel in the same direction or the strength of the wheel is compromised. Load under breaking could be replaced for load under acceleration at the rear wheel in the example above ?

not that my legs hold any great fear for spokes of whatever quality but i just wondered if there is a risk ?

That's for rear wheels.

Assuming a rim brake, the forces are applied in both directions, accelerating and decelerating, so I'd normally build the wheel to trail from the inside of the flange on one side, and the outside on the other.

On a disc-brake front wheel, acceleration turns the rim ahead of the hub but braking pulls the hub back, so I'd run trailing spokes to the outside of both flanges.

and say for example if a friend of mine built a wheel not following the above correct procedure would he be likely to die ?

would the spokes implode at the first sign of pressure ?

and say for example if a friend of mine built a wheel not following the above correct procedure would he be likely to die ?

would the spokes implode at the first sign of pressure ?

yeah yeah yeah...

and say for example if a friend of mine built a wheel not following the above correct procedure would he be likely to die ?

would the spokes implode at the first sign of pressure ?

A wheel that's laced without considering the differences in load would lose tension quicker and you might get spokes which go to the outside of the flanges breaking under load.

It's not a disaster but you should keep an eye on it.

It'd probably be fine.

Due to lack of time I've recently had a wheel built at a bike shop, I got it back the other day and have checked it over. To be frank i think its shit, the tension seems very low and the dish is off by a few millimeters, am i expecting too much? what are the normal errors in lateral and axial directions? what is a common error is dish?

Dish should be spot on, it's like the first thing you get right and then you keep checking it throughout the build, definitely less than 1mm.

what are the normal errors in lateral and axial directions? what is a common error is dish?

I usually stop messing about when I'm at about 0.25mm axial and radial, peak to peak. Dish isn't such a big deal unless you need all your wheels to be the same so you can swap them without adjusting the brakes, but more than 1mm out is shoddy.

What rim tape for 23mm rims?

Anyone seen or tried this truing stand. After watching the Pro-Lite factory videos I'm quite sold on their quality.
Pro Lite wheel truing stand
Reckon it's on par with the TS-2.2 or perhaps even better.

I had my rear wheel written off recently and am struggling to source a replacement rim. It was a Velocity A23 (silver, 32h) and not the tubeless variety. It seems only the tubeless are in production now, but can't find a 32h anyway. Any thoughts on a different wide profile rim with similar look so it'll match with the front A23?

Ta