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• #127
thats the same way i have always done it.
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• #128
i don't trust these new-fangled ideas.
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• #129
nope, stick to the oldies.
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• #130
Nah, Skully and MikeC are right. This method is the shit. Bike is upright, rear wheel is loose in the dropouts. Sit on the ground behind the rear wheel, place both feet in the pedals so that bike is steady and you have the wheel in between your legs. Pull wheel towards you with one hand until chain is tight, tighten bolts with the other hand. Done.
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• #131
what if it's raining?
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• #132
your gonna have a wet arse anyways :P
mks chain tug, just tighten that up, then half tighten the axle nut, bring the left side level, double tighten both axle nuts. job done -
• #133
stick a plastic tyre lever between down tube and tyre.
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• #134
stick a plastic tyre lever between down tube and tyre.
do you mean seat tube?
or seat/chain stay? -
• #135
I just look at my chain and it tensions in fear.
a stern word and the axle nuts tighten up.
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• #136
My flat mate introduced me to the MikeC style a few months ago. I can't seem to get it level though. Always pointing a bit to the left. Maybe I'm trying to tension it too much.
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• #137
Wedge rag/ tshirt/whatever between wheel and seat tube. Works if you have fag paper clearances, not so good for rakenger conversions.
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• #138
My method is similar to mikec's but you don't need to sit down and push on the pedals. I just use my left hand to push the wheel back (thumb against seattube, fingers on tyre pushing back) and my right hand to do up the nuts/allen bolts.
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• #139
My gap is too tight for fingers (badoom-tssh).
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• #140
Sounds like this method would give you a wet and dirty arse and a chain that's too tight. Here's one that works, is no hassle and will get the chain the right tightness (hint: it should have a little bit of slack otherwise you'll trash your bearings). The only problem is that it needs a bit of practice. Push the wheel back so the chain is tightish, but not fully tight, and the wheel is slightly towards the non drive side. Tighten the non drive side nut. Push the wheel over towards the drive side so that it is straight and takes the chain to the right tension. Tighten drive side nut.
Job done and no sitting on the floor like a drunk schoolgirl after one too many breezers.
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• #141
A doorstop/wedge thing is just the ticket!
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• #142
My gap is too tight for fingers (badoom-tssh).
Fag paper clearance is for suckers. :P
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• #143
Jesus I never realized people had such trouble putting a wheel in! All these complicated methond and tricks.
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• #144
It's voodoo Tommy, didn't you know?
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• #145
This is the stupidest thread ever, amen.
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• #146
Why is it stupid?
When I first started riding fixed, getting tension just right was a royal pain in the arse.
Now I do it without thinking. Everyone has to learn the way that works for them and it helps others if we all share our methods.
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• #147
I apologise. I guess for those of us that grew up with BMX it's a non topic.
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• #148
yep i was thinking the same thing!
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• #149
Ok, I really shouldn't be doing this, cause it shows how new I am but here I go anyway.
My chain pretty slack and I was wondering if loosening the rear wheel and shifting it back a bit would be the proper way of tensioning the chain. Or is it supposed to be a little slack?
I bought the bike second hand. I don't think the chain is stretched, but I'll check it at some stage. But for now is moving the wheel back adequate?
Thanks in advance.
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• #150
no, move it forwards. doh
More detail! I can imagine what the hell you're meant to do with this.
I've always used the way that was mentioned on 63xc.com: bike upside down, mash hand between seat tube, wheel and stays and push your hand open. Get it straight, do drive side up then the other one.