Charge Plug

Hi all
I have tried a charge plug in small, medium and large, and I can fit on and ride all three quite comfortably. I'm 5ft 10". I was going to get a medium, but would there be any benefit in getting a small or a large frame? I've seen some people on here talk about riding smaller bikes - I was just wondering if there was any particular benefit.

Get someone in a shop that knows to fit you the right size. There is one.

Could I use the carbon fork and seat post from my langster in order to make the bike lighter and for a more comfortable ride? Or could I buy just the frame of the plug and use the parts from my Langster to finish it off?

Maybe, but if you're buying a new bike I assume you;re selling the old thus better to sell complete.

I have seen a few second hand plugs for sale. Is there any particular benefit with buying a brand new bike? From what I've read, the Plug is pretty much indestructable.
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Indestructable no, hard wearing and built like a tank yes. Obv. with a new bike you get manufacturers warranty. Even if the bike you buy is under warranty it's valid ONLY for original owner.

[QUOTE=Zakkz;2001696]
When looking at a second hand bike, is there any way to check that it hasn't been stolen? I called up my local police station to ask them to check a serial number on a bike I had seen for sale on gumtree as it was quite a young person selling it, and they seemed to know very little about the bike - not even the size! The police station said they couldn't check, so I've been googling for an online database but can't seem to find anything.

Talk to the dude about the bike, if he's shifty about where he got it from, what changes hes made, how it rides or it looks like it's been hidden away for a while. Dont buy.

Why do you want to switch from a langster to a plug? They're both entry level bikes.

^ bing.

I wanted to try out a Chrage Plug because it is a steel bike, and the road surfaces around South London aren't the best - I was told that steel absorbs the bumps better leading to a smoother cycle.

I didn't buy the shifty bike in the end, I wasn't very happy with the answers I was getting about the bike. For me, alarm bells started ringing when he didn't know the size of the bike.

In terms of getting a proper fitment, I have been into two different Evans Cycles shops, and both of them recommended that I take all three out for a test ride and choose whichever feels most comfortable. The only problem being is that they all felt quite comfortable!

i would have thought your langster with the carbon fork will be far more forgiving than a stock plug with steel fork.

i would have thought your langster with the carbon fork will be far more forgiving than a stock plug with steel fork.

^ bing bing!

My first bike (since i was 12) was a Langster. Lots of fun. Stick with that you have, they're good rides.

Spend your money on a good handbuild lightweight wheeler instead.

The stock wheel are pretty heavy.

Hmmm...

Thanks for your advice guys - much appreciated.

Just one more thing - I was told that aluminium perishes after a certain amount of time, whereas steel doesn't.

The person I was speaking to in Evans was saying that it is around 5 years for aluminium whereas steel can last indefinately. I'm begining to think now that it may have been a bit of a sales ploy...

If I'm cycling around 700-800 miles a year, how long will my Langster last before the frame cracks? Or is the fork more likely to need replacing?

Also the comfort factor could be the 28c tyres, whether the stock langster (afaik) came with a skinny but hard 23c tyre.

If it does have 23c tyres, I recommend a 28c tyres for extra comfort.

800 miles a years isn't much (15 miles a weeks??), steel are quite strong but that isn't to says Alu is not, otherwise they wouldn't be using them in MTB.

Alu are stiffer, which is where the comfort factor come in.

Spend your money on a good handbuild lightweight wheeler instead.

The stock wheel are pretty heavy.

Do you mean the wheels on the Langster? Or on the Plug?

The reason I like my Langster is that it is quite lightweight when I'm not lugging round my Kryptonite New York Lock with it.

Also the comfort factor could be the 28c tyres, whether the stock langster (afaik) came with a skinny but hard 23c tyre.

If it does have 23c tyres, I recommend a 28c tyres for extra comfort.

It did come with 23c tyres - so I might have a look at 28c new time my tyres need replacing

stock wheels on the langster will be pretty much the same as those on the charge plug

Zakkz your bike is fine and light enough, if you want to lighten it up a little put a carbon set of bars and seatpost on it. I loved my langster and would still be riding it were it not for 'the bug' that I caught. If I had one today I would:

• change the gearing to 80GI
  
• Carbon up seatpost
  
• Replace the saddle for fizik
  
• Take off the brakes and fit a goldfinger (black/white)
  
• Replace the front brake with Dura Ace
  
• Take the free-cassette off the back and space it (losing more weight)
  
• Whack my dura ace peds on it.
  
  

Then you're looking at a great bike for training/distance or even track if you can handle people making degrading comments about your sloping top tube.

• change the gearing to 80GI
  
• Carbon up seatpost
  
• Replace the saddle for fizik
  
• Take off the brakes and fit a goldfinger (black/white)
  
• Replace the front brake with Dura Ace
  
• Take the free-cassette off the back and space it (losing more weight)
  
• Whack my dura ace peds on it.
  
  
  

Benjamin - thanks for that, much appreciated.

The seatpost is already carbon
I have a Selle Italia seat
I have taken off the rear brake already, but am quite liking the look of the goldfinger
Dura Ace brake seems quite expensive - is there any significant difference between that and a stock brake? Is it lighter? Or does it significantly improve braking power?
I have some spd pedals and shoes, and I am keep wanting to put them on, but I'm worried about falling off!

What does 80GI mean?
I'm still relatively new to the world of fixed gear bikes, and from what I know, my bike is a 42T at the front and 16 at the rear. Would 80GI mean make the gearing higher meaning it spins more? Or lower meaning potentially faster but more effort?

As for my sloping top tube, comments sometimes are hurtful, but I am slowly learning to deal with it...

80GI is too high for commuting IMO
high 60s is more normal

80GI is too high for commuting IMO
high 60s is more normal

+1

The stock gearing on the langster is fine (which is a high 60), 80gi is what people use on the track.

80GI is too high for commuting IMO
high 60s is more normal

'normal' means nothing. On the flats of manchester I run 77.4 and can keep that at a decent RPM for 10+ miles easy, which is my commute one way and accelerate and skid with not much trouble. I do use 170mm cranks.

Do you mean the wheels on the Langster?

Yes, the stock wheel is heavy, mavic open pro + cheap formula/amboriso/condor/system ex/etc. Hubs with double butted spokes and you'll have a perfectly decent lightweight wheel that won't hurt the bank, that make a huge difference in how the bike feel.

• Take off the brakes and fit a goldfinger (black/white)
  
  
  

2 brakes + fixed wheel is very very underrated.

I thought that there was no need for a rear brake as you could back-pedal to stop

Or do you mean the extra stopping power it gives you?

'normal' means nothing. On the flats of manchester I run 77.4 and can keep that at a decent RPM for 10+ miles easy, which is my commute one way and accelerate and skid with not much trouble. I do use 170mm cranks.

normal means what most people use on here around town.

I thought that there was no need for a rear brake as you could back-pedal to stop

Or do you mean the extra stopping power it gives you?

There's no need for a rear brake when you have foot retention and front brakes, but having two brakes yield even more control (and less harm toward your knees).

I'm getting canti mount on my fixed wheel bicycle so I can run a full brakeset,

I've been toying with the idea of adding a rear brake for extra braking power, but I was under the impression that it was unnecessary.

My langster did have one originally, but I took it off and subsequently lost it...

Give you the excuse of buying a brakeset though.