Mudguards

Wow! Massive accordion!

Or is it a small bike?

Just paid LBS to do it :P they didnt have to bent the stays just cutting was enough.

Bending the stay slightly would help keep it in line.

Does that mean there's tension where the stay meets the fender?

nope

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Ah, looks good from here.

Front look fine, back could do with a bit of a bend.

Such a sick bike Amey.

thanks man, its surprisingly light for steel! Just need to get better cages and a velcro strap :P

EDIT: I was talking about the single speed you posted on the previous page. Not yours I'm guessing.

Can you get the wheel out of the track ends with mudguards on?

Looks tight.

I fitted a spare set of the QR bits on the front to my rear so I can 'pop' the mudguard out when I need to remove the rear wheel.

Anyone here have Raceblades with 25mm tyres? I'm looking at getting a set, but mulling options between the regular ones and the XL version.

Do SKS make an alternative bracket to secure the rear guard to the seatstay bridge when the drilling is perpendicular to the guard rather than being a brake drilling?

Got GF a PX London Road last weekend, wants to fit 45mm Bluemels.

Drill the guard, bolt through from the inside, space with washers/those little things you get on innertubes if needed

Ah. Won't be returnable then.

Also fucked if it cracks when I try to drill it.

Raceblade longs are a perfect fit for an FM066 @amey ?

yes, PDW might work too. Those frames could clear 28c without guards. What you need to look for is brake caliper clearance.

Pretty sure SKS don't make anything suitable. You could bodge an L bracket under the bridge and bolt the original fixing to it. Probably flex a fair bit and look shit.

I've drilled SKS before and never had any problems. I did drill some ££ Velo Orange fenders and had them crack after a few months.

I used to (this is before XLs existed). Never a problem.

I've drilled and fitted loads that way (customers and my bikes) never had one crack yet.

Can you not just get one of these and bend the mounting tab back so that it's flat and lies under the bridge?

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sks-stainless-steel-rear-mudguard-bridge-each-prod4388/

I've done that as above. Didn't last long until it snapped where it had been bent. haven't got round to drilling it, currently zip ties and a tolerable rattle.

Depending on how neat you need it to look, you could get one of the above and drill it in the middle and cut off the tab altogether. Then find a bolt with a very flat head, bolt the hanger to the frame and then wrap the hanger around the guard.

Isn't the hanger kind of redundant then?
Just use a relatively broad washer with another (leather or rubber) between it and the fender and you're done.

Means you can bolt it from underneath the bridge without drilling a hole in the mudguard.

Ok. I still say drilling (though a hot nail is even better) wins.