Frame size?

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  • so you see how the lower back curves towards the navel area?
    that should look like that at all times, i think Arup might have something to say about spines

  • Like this?

    Pros always harp on about flat backs.. but they get paid to fsck themselves up..

  • Flat backs when you're bent over is the S shape. It's about curving in your lower back, and engaging your glutes. As Bill said earlier.

  • I raised my bars about 1/2 " or so about a month ago and it made so much difference, not so much when on the top but when in the drops, I use the drops so much more now and it can be quite comfy, before hand I would only ever drop down into the drops when I had a crazy head wind because I hated it.

    I had always thought that something being half an inch too short didn't matter, but now I realise it can make world of difference.

  • I need that cyclefit fitting.. too late making adjustments now with all this riding I'm supposed to be doing..

  • scotland Sorry to clarify, do you guys mean concave/convex relative to the ground? I think you need a point of reference to describe something as concave/convex. my back sometimes feels concave sometimes convex. Buffalo Bill described a "natural S shape", does that mean one part of the back concave and one part convex? If so which part is which. Thankx, I'm trying to sort out bike fit and posture too.

    I think he means concave at the lower back and convex at the upper back in order to back the 's' so that you can lean forward but so that you are not hunched over

  • Hi guys, sorry to dredge this up but I'm in a quandry.
    In Aus I had a 60cm road frame conversion but had everything else small.....stem/low seatpost seat far forward.
    So as a 6'1"er with long legs should I be looking for more like a 56-58cm? These charts and guides seem a little vague. I guess as long as you have some seatpost in reserve and the chance to change stems you could probably dial it right. Right?

  • I still think top-tube and seat-tube angle have the biggest effect. Seat too far forward for me means all my weight's pivoting over the bottom bracket and I get numb hands however long or short the stem is.

    My Condor's the smallest I could get away with. Top-tube is about 1-2cm shorter than ideal, but the angle's also a bit steep (75 degrees). Therefore I can get away with pushing the saddle almost all the way back on the rails to compensate both the centre of gravity and reach to bars.

    Can only recommend a fitting session, or trial and error plus experience... and then you find your body's mutated with another passing year, and you have to start tweaking again.

  • i know different frame manufacturers measure frames differently.
    specialized measure them using an invisible line??? i am a midget and can ride a 56 langster fine when
    i can barely fit on my 53 benotto?
    see how it feels is my only bit of advice:)

  • I'll see how it feels on ebay.
    ;)

  • bookmarked.

  • bit late to this and most of what I'm going to say has already been spoken about,

    but I rode an old kona cindercone for 15 odd years, thinking it was all right for me, only to do a cycle fitting with roger @ mosquito and find out that I'd been wrecking myself all that time. All the aches and pains I used to get riding, sore neck, shoulders etc, all gone now. Plus I feel quicker and feel like i can ride for longer. In actuality Iphysically might not be any quicker but you know its all in the head.
    would advise everyone to get fitted properly, makes a hell of a lot of difference. plus you get many a print out that gives you information for the perfect custom fit for you, so you can just send out your info to bike maker of choice and get them to build you the perfectly sized bike.

    You can figure out the ins and outs of sizing via trial and error, and most people usually do, but to find out definitively best to get sized.

    I will now stride nonchalantly into the sunshine for a pint....

  • i'm thinking of getting an IRO angus, but their frame sizes seem somewhat 'out of whack'.

    I'm a hairs breadth over 6' tall and consider my road frame quite a bit too small for me at 52cm measured centre to centre (it's also a bit cramped in length, despite having a wheelbase to rival most estate cars). ANYway, i've just been down to town to look at the IRO in 56cm and 59cm. The measurents are centre to top of the seat tube and are 52cm and 55cm respectively when measured CTC. in fact the 56cm is no taller than my current frame and even shorter. Put simply, I reckon the 59cm is the one to go for, especially as i quite like big frames, but i reckon the standover height (at 33") might bring my gonads dangerously close to the top tube...

    any thoughts? any help'd be... helpful.

  • don't they measure to the top of seat tube or something weird? for seat tube

  • Dude. I'm 5'8" and I ride a 54 c to c?
    Your 52 must be hellish to ride.

  • i have IRO 56c if you want to try it some time at Polo

  • dogsballs don't they measure to the top of seat tube or something weird? for seat tube

    exactly yeah, centre of BB to top of the seat tube collar. balls to that.

  • sol i have IRO 56c if you want to try it some time at Polo

    that might be a good idea, thanks a lot. does anyone there ride a 59?!

  • not that i know of at Polo, but there must be someone on the forum ...

  • i'd guess the 56, iro's tend to be long-ish feeling, especially with their long wheel base. a mate of mine is just over 6 foot and rode a 56, lots of post showing but didn't need an especially long stem.

  • 52cm for a 6' rider? Jeez.

    Anyway, my iro is a 62, I am 6'3" (my mother claims 6'4", bless her) and it is plenty big enough for me. Not sure if that helps at all, except for teh vague conclusion that the iro frames are large-ish.

  • Object Dude. I'm 5'8" and I ride a 54 c to c?
    Your 52 must be hellish to ride.

    one day you'll hit the grothspurt

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Frame size?

Posted by Avatar for photoben @photoben

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