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• #27
it can technically be the same size but can be very different. extended seat tubes (above top tube), using c2b or c2t measurements, BB height, all affect things. it's a bugger though.
i'll post some pics of mine tonight to show what they can look like when converted (badly and to SS in my case).
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• #28
Thank y' very much.
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• #29
here is a picture of the dropout. i've taken out quite a bit and it worked well for a couple of months. think i'm going to file out a bit more for more adjustment - will still have loads to play with even then.
and here's a shot of the bike. sorry its on an angle, my lens ain't wide enough. kept most of the gold bits (levers, cranks) but the weinemann claipers had to go, far to sketchy on the downhills.
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• #30
Sounds like a bit too much work for my lazy ass! Better get saving up...
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• #31
brick do you want an alu frame, ive got one im trying to get rid of, its a zuse, it needs sanding and painting. its 59cm bb to seat, and 22.5 top tube. free to a good home.
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• #32
Maybe what are the drop outs, I have an old alu road bike that works well for my geared ride.
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• #33
they are perty vertical...the frame is a bit rusty, but a quick dremeling would sort that out, i hand sanded some of the worst stuff off, but got tired of rubbing a shaft with out he rewards...
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• #34
ha ha!:)
Let some other deserving sole have it, thanks for the offer, I don't really havethe pace and already have a road bike.
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• #35
hang on rusty? are you sure it is alu? If it is red rust it must be steel. Alu oxadization is just a dull colour and dose not start flaking / going soft untill it is falling apart and unrearable. Some one with better Chemestory / meturology knoloage can correct me /fill in any gaps.
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• #36
its not red rust like steal.. im farly shure its alu... bike is not here to sheck, i will when i get back to where it is.
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• #37
Use the fridge door as a magnet to check.
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• #38
dont have any magnets.... ill take a closer look at the rust, and google the tytpe of bike, if i have not scraped off all the sitckers yet.
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• #39
Probably shouldn't say this but when I have got enough posts I have some frame that I will stick in the classifieds that will make good fixeds. Great only 1 post to go
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• #40
Please read.
http://www.londonfgss.com/thread9350.htmlThank you.
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• #41
Probably shouldn't say this but when I have got enough posts I have some frame that I will stick in the classifieds that will make good fixeds. Great only 1 post to go
you fucking tit
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• #42
probably shouldn't say this but when i have got enough posts i have some frame that i will stick in the classifieds that will make good fixeds. Great only 1 post to go
wafc.
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• #43
Needless to say no one is going to buy your shit frame.
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• #44
Newbie here.
Sorry for dragging this post back from the dead, but I'm in the process of converting a Raleigh Record Sprint 501 frame to a fixed gear.
Have got loads of general info from the rest of the site about the task at hand, but thought I'd check - with Elvis in particular, if you're still there - how the re-filing of the dropout went, and if you had any more nuggets of wisdom in this regard.
I had assumed I'd need to take a file to the frame, and am prepared to put the effort in, but any tips/words of warning would be much appreciated!
I ride a 54cm Trek 5200 when doing major distance and that's been set up for me and is spot on. Seems weird that there's such a difference with the Record Sprint but it does seem a fair bit bigger?!