Bike porn

what was it? a link to something?

Whats going on with the pedal hole on the cranks?

Look Zed cranks have a 3-lobe insert* which allows one crank to cover 3 lengths in 2.5mm increments because the pedal thread is offset from the centre of the triangle; rotating the insert 120° increments the effective crank length.

*First generation used a special Keo pedal with a 3-lobe axle end instead of a thread.

slack chains

Look Zed cranks have a 3-lobe insert* which allows one crank to cover 3 lengths in 2.5mm increments because the pedal thread is offset from the centre of the triangle; rotating the insert 120° increments the effective crank length.

*First generation used a special Keo pedal with a 3-lobe axle end instead of a thread.

Does that make our life easier or Looks life, so they need to make only one size? I mean does it serve a practical purpose?

Also, do dyna drive pedals work too? ;P

Does that make our life easier or Looks life, so they need to make only one size? I mean does it serve a practical purpose?

It does what it says on the tin. Whether you choose to use the feature is up to you, but all carbon cranks have a metal thread insert, and there doesn't seem to be any real detriment in having it loose rather than co-moulded. They make two basic sizes of the track version, small for 165-170 and large for 170-175

Of course, the whole thing is based on the fiction that crank length matters...

Ultimate Gaston™ saddle position.

Those seat tube angles demanded that position.

Those seatposts also allowed a lot of variability in fore n aft position.

Those bars are a joke right?

mavic tt bullhorn

Bars, stem, seat post, saddle...

bar - mavic tt bullhorn
stem - bontrager 40deg drop
seatpost - USE alien aero carbon seatpost
saddle - brooks b17 champion spacial

so much hate... wheres the love?? :)

wheres the love?

Reserved for people who take 2 minutes to understand the etiquette of this thread.

^^ Individually there's nothing wrong with any of those components, it's just together, on that bike, they kinda don't gel and seem a bit outta place (just my opinion).

Basically, it looks from the size of the frame and the height of the saddle, that you're not too tall, and if so, the reach and drop of the stem and bars is a bit extreme (unless you have gorilla arms!), either that or the reach is fine but you need to put your saddle up and still too much drop.
Looks very uncomfortable.
If the stem was -23 to -17deg or even -10deg and a another 20-30mm shorter and the bars at a better level, it would look a lot more ridable.
I'm 6'2" and I ride with a -10deg 100mm stem and some 20mm drop Syntace Stratos 200 pursuit bars that pull back towards the rider on the drop, and that felt a bit long for me at first, but the drop from saddle to the end of bars on yours looks to be about 200mm or more!
Personally, I've never liked Brooks saddles, they can look ok on a steel framed bike, but think they just look wrong on a modern oversized alu frames, you wants something more HHSB like a Fizik Arione or stripped beck SLR.

Like I said, this is all just my opinion only and I fully welcome you to ignore everything I say! ;P
Do what works for you.
Its mostly only about the riding position looking outta place and uncomfortable than the components, cause the rest is sweet! I was looking to buy a Fuji Track Pro not to long ago myself, but got offered a Omnium at an amazing price and I want your wheels!

Plus, a little hint, don't post your own bike in the porn thread, it's seen as a big no-no!

^^ Individually there's nothing wrong with any of those components, it's just together, on that bike, they kinda don't gel and seem a bit outta place (just my opinion).

Basically, it looks from the size of the frame and the height of the saddle, that you're not too tall, and if so, the reach and drop of the stem and bars is a bit extreme (unless you have gorilla arms!), either that or the reach is fine but you need to put your saddle up and still too much drop.
Looks very uncomfortable.
If the stem was -23 to -17deg or even -10deg and a another 20-30mm shorter and the bars at a better level, it would look a lot more ridable.
I'm 6'2" and I ride with a -10deg 100mm stem and some 20mm drop Syntace Stratos 200 pursuit bars that pull back towards the rider on the drop, and that felt a bit long for me at first, but the drop from saddle to the end of bars on yours looks to be about 200mm or more!
Personally, I've never liked Brooks saddles, they can look ok on a steel framed bike, but think they just look wrong on a modern oversized alu frames, you wants something more HHSB like a Fizik Arione or stripped beck SLR.

Like I said, this is all just my opinion only and I fully welcome you to ignore everything I say! ;P
Do what works for you.
Its mostly only about the riding position looking outta place and uncomfortable than the components, cause the rest is sweet! I was looking to buy a Fuji Track Pro not to long ago myself, but got offered a Omnium at an amazing price and I want your wheels!

Plus, a little hint, don't post your own bike in the porn thread, it's seen as a big no-no!

thanks for the input man! really helps! ill take a look at those saddles

If you want a basic starting point of the right set up to look for for your dimensions, check out this link - http://competitivecyclist.com/
and click near the top right of the page for the fit calculator.

I found it very useful as a place to start from and see what works for you from there, although of course you're gonna need to keep in mind that with track drops or pursuit bars the stem and saddle-bar distance should be maybe 10-20mm shorter than what they recommend, as it's designed for road bike setups.

Start from there and play around to see what works.

Of course, the whole thing is based on the fiction that crank length matters...

So no difference at all between a 120mm crank arm and a 175mm crank arm - got it.

Wow... does this apply to other things too?!

Because I'm pretty sure there's a few girls out there that'd say 55mm will make a hell of a difference! (not that it's ever been an issue for me mind...) :P

So no difference at all between a 120mm crank arm and a 175mm crank arm - got it.

As it turns out, there's many a true word spoken in jest. The actual science suggests no difference between 100mm and 200mm as long as gain ratio is held constant, except that people with short legs run up against range of movement problems with very long cranks.

http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2012/05/bikes-of-the-bunch-stoemper/

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m3aszfsnEp1qaythmo1_1280.jpg

^^chain looks a bit long, and should it have a black saddle? Nice though

^Yum

As it turns out, there's many a true word spoken in jest. The actual science suggests no difference between 100mm and 200mm as long as gain ratio is held constant, except that people with short legs run up against range of movement problems with very long cranks.

and long legged people may feel short cranks odd. The difference I refer to is how they feel to ride, which are more comfortable and which ultimately aid or inhibit performance because of that.

There is clearly a difference to the rider between using a 50mm crank compared to a 300mm crank, even with same gain ratios. There would also be a difference between 170 and 172.5 just a lot smaller. Each person will have their optimal length although god knows what that is and how much it actually matters (which I guess is why the couple of standard sizes have been mass adopted)

It's not fiction though, I'll tell you that much.

hey thats a nice colnago!