Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Again, IIRC the Jobst Brandt Retrogrouch™ wisdom is that spoke breakages are almost always fatigue failures due to too many stress cycles. Spoke tension doesn't affect how many stress cycles the spoke undergoes or how many it can withstand before failing (I think). His recommendation is to keep tensioning the spokes until stress-relieving them puts the rim out of true, then backing them off a touch, re-truing, and stress relieving them again. If they stay true that time then they're good to go, basically. I don't think he made different recommendations for different wheel uses.

It's a bit old school. When he wrote the book rims were a lot "softer" meaning you didn't need a lot of tension to get them out of shape... if you try a Wolber Profil or an Ambrosio Elite, you will see that as you go over 120 KgF, you end up with a saddle shaped rim.
Modern rims are a hell of a lot stiffer and you need some serious tension to get them out of shape. i don't think you can get a Velocity Deep V out of shape at all. But the local stress experienced by the holes is still the same, so chances are your over-tensioned rim will stay true but it will crack at the holes pretty quickly.
The answer is simple, get a tension gauge, even the cheap Park Tool one is very good and although the calibration is not 100% accurate, it's not far off.
I still use it for those spokes which are not featured in other calibration charts (essentially anything which is not DT or Sapim)