Which torque wrench?

Oh, and I've ended up with the Park TW5 and TW6 in the end :-)

Garant are a bit swish for a bicycle. It is possible to improvise a torque wrench with spring balance and a ruler. Quite accurate enough, for little outlay.

Nobody has mentioned a Norbar TT20. Its range is 1-20Nm, which is all you'll ever need for over 90% of bike applications (I can only think of the nut on the back of a rotor 3D which holds the spider to the crank, this is 40Nm). I have one and find it excellent.

I'll second that. Norbar make excellent products, bound to last a lifetime.

Are there any alternatives similar to the Ritchey Torque Key that can dish out different levels of torque? Basically, my BMC's seat post clamp bolts needs to be tightened at 5nm and also 8nm. Or is my best option to simply fork up for an actual torque wrench?

Similarly, what would my options be for tightening the bolt up on a ride if I needed to?Quite obviously, I wouldn't want take a torque wrench with me on a ride, just in case....

Get a proper torque wrench.

Topeak ComboTorq: bargain at Halfords.

That is cheap.

Got a torque wrench free with my canyon. Just buy one of those.

free with my canyon

bit excessive just for a torque wrench.

It was quite a grand journey

Ouch ;o))))

Indeed, but the pleasure from owning Park shop quality tools far outweighs the temporary burn in the wallet from spending 20% more than a cheaper alternative :-P
I use them all the time.

does anyone know a place that will cailbrate a torque wrench or is there a way to do it ?

If its a Norbar one I understand they will recalibrate. They may even do others? Why do you want to calibrate. I assume as long as I wind to lowest torque after use and do not through in anger/drop it should be OK. After all unlike workshop / car mechanics ones it is not used day in day out.

I'm after a torque wrench for my seat post and carbon bars, seen this on PX and looked ok. Does anyone have any experiences with them or other recommendations?

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWMTWS/jobsworth-pro-torque-wrench-set

Try here: http://www.lfgss.com/thread50435.html

I'm after a torque wrench for my seat post and carbon bars, seen this on PX and looked ok. Does anyone have any experiences with them or other recommendations?

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWMTWS/jobsworth-pro-torque-wrench-set

Topeak ComboTorq: bargain at Halfords.

10% discount if you flash your British Cycling membership card at the till.

Cheers guys, I'm going to try the one from Wiggle as PX are a nightmare if you want to return anything.

Never had a problem returning anything myself.

Does anyone have any experience of using beam type wrenches? Like the ParkTool TW-1 and TW-2.
I imagine it's not as convenient as the clicking type, being awkward to read during some operations, but the lower cost and range of 0-70 Nm with the longer is tempting, despite the low resolution.

I haven't but, as you point out, the problem with having one wrench to rule them all, is the lack of resolution.

The bulk of components are at the lower range, where a couple of NM either way are the difference between expensive dental work or expensive replacement components.

I've settled on the Topeak for stems and seatposts and will head to the LBS for the hefty stuff like BB, which I'll need to do far less often.

Unless you're LBS is friendly enough and will to do jobs while you wait. That approach could cost a lot more, in the long run, than buying a second torque wrench, and may leave you bikeless for a day or two.

Of course it depends on how much they charge, how often you would need the work done and how urgent the job is, as to whether that approach is economical or convenient.

Personally, it would take a couple of years for a big wrench to pay for itself and I have more than one bike.

If you do decide you need a wrench that can handle large jobs, then it is a better approach to have a low range and a high range wrench.

Agreed. But with the service costs at my LBS excluding parts would mean that after replacing two bottom brackets I could have purchased a pretty decent torque wrench.

The issue for the higher torque components particularly the BB is ensuring the torque wrench can do both right and left handed threads. I believe the Park style beam ones can. I have a Britool clicky style one that can, but I'm unsure of the model.

...The issue for the higher torque components particularly the BB is ensuring the torque wrench can do both right and left handed threads...
Good point and one I hadn't considered!

Norbar 11034 Torque wrench, 3/8" ratchet, adjustable, 1-20 N.m/10-180 lbf.in; Model SL0 Steel Knob

Norbar 13042 Torque Wrench Adjustable Industrial Ratchet (Push Through Square) Model 60, 3/8", 8 - 60N.m

I've ordered two Norbar wrenches; part number 11034 and 13042.
I considered the ParkTool options, but decided they are probably overpriced. The ones I have ordered are also expensive, but Norbar doesn't make all kinds of different things like Park (Park doesn't make everything that has its name on it, of course); they only make tools and machines that deal with torque and they seem to be the industry leaders.
Something cheaper would probably suffice, but I am happy to invest in high quality, especially with tools.
The smaller one clicks between 1 and 20 Nm and the larger between 8 and 60 Nm.
I considered getting 20-100 instead of 8-60 for a greater overall range, but decided that these two should be more appropriate for my mostly bicycle application.
Bear in mind that the beam type wrenches (assuming they are correct out of the box) never need re-calibrating. That would involve pretty crude bending anyway.
As mentioned earlier the clicking type are easier to use in awkward situations when you can not read the scale.
I have ordered both with 3/8 inch drives because I already have a 3/8 to 1/4 converter and the smaller one with a steel knob because it's nicer than plastic. Most torque wrenches are accurate to about 4%, this model 60 wrench has a stated accuracy of 3%.
I'm lucky enough to be in a position to be able to afford these, but if you can't afford a torque wrench you can rig up something with a ruler/tape measure and some weights that will give you more accuracy than not checking at all.
The Norbar wrenches come with a certificate of calibration and I expect they will last longer than me.

I will report back any issues / special benefits.