Current Projects chat and miscellany

black toe straps even

That pug is lovely.

Black tape would be better.

Would it be rude to say matching tyres as well?

Eventual matching tyres is a given ;) those are just how it arrived.

Mirrored pic

the pug or the cog?
You can see the thread on the axle goes the correct way so its not mirrored

Just trollin

Last version
grammo x bontrager / Arione / sks / Veloflex

Gorgeous bike and pics

I didn't notice that cog only had 4 bolts not 6. I'm sure someone has done some calcs.

It has 3 bolts because that's a way of getting the chain to clear the bolt heads on a 15T sprocket.

Worst case for a bolt on sprocket is likely to be a 2:1 drivetrain plus a heavy bloke on long cranks, applying 2000N at a radius of 180mm for 360Nm at the crank, reduced to 180Nm at the sprocket due to the gear ratio. Bad news on a 1.370"×24tpi thread, where the suggested tightening torque is about a quarter of that. The bolt circle radius is 22mm, so the shear load on all the bolts is ~16kN, and the material cross section is 12.5mm² per bolt. I think the suggested maximum shear load on grade 12.9 bolts is about 170N/mm² for cyclic loads, so 2100N per bolt, 6.3kN if all 3 share the load equally. This is ignoring any friction between the sprocket and mounting face, which is probably a reasonable assumption, and there are big safety factors in there to allow for a safe cycle time of 2 million cycles. So, a fat bloke doing a maximal standing start on a low gear won't snap the bolts immediately, and he can do 1 million revolutions at around 40% of starting torque before the bolts fail from fatigue. A million revs on a 52" gear at a nice low climbing cadence of 50rpm and 800Nm peak torque at the crank is 1900W peak power output, 8mph and 2600 miles travelled. We need somebody with a Watt bike to tell us the peak:mean torque ratio, but just looking at the polar graphs suggests to me that even absolute duffers manage about 4:1 and elites can get to 2:1, so average power output of 475W even for a clumsy fat mountain biker.

Superb mudguard fitting Normai. Did you use p clips?

Have you got a quick release or will you just carry a 6/8mm to release the mudguards in case of a puncture?

Yes I use p clips.
No quick release, but I'll put to the rear.
Because In case of a puncture : I'll be forced to disassemble the mudguard ... :(

Fell in love with the white Soma.

Superb mudguard fitting Normai. Did you use p clips?

Have you got a quick release or will you just carry a 6/8mm to release the mudguards in case of a puncture?

Yes I use p clips.
No quick release, but I'll put to the rear.
Because In case of a puncture : I'll be forced to disassemble the mudguard ... :(

I've been thinking about this situation- Normai your guards look great, but as Elvis points out the wheel removal situation sucks.

Had you considered the SKS Raceblade?

The guards use quick-release tabs, which means that the entire rear section could be removed without tools, very rapidly.

That was the direction that my thinking was taking, anyway.

You get those tabs for chromoplastics though so they just pop off innit.

I don't wanna the raceblade, I prefer this one :)

I'll put this to the rear:

Those tabs do take a bit of a yank, though - and you have to bend the mudguard, with the Raceblade you can detach the guard from the rear brake bridge and both stays, removing it completely in a couple of seconds.

But you may not like how it looks, of course.

Yes I use p clips.
No quick release, but I'll put to the rear.
Because In case of a puncture : I'll be forced to disassemble the mudguard ... :(

I don't wanna the raceblade, I prefer this one :)

I'll put this to the rear:

Those tabs do take a bit of a yank, though - and you have to bend the mudguard, with the Raceblade you can detach the guard from the rear brake bridge and both stays, removing it completely in a couple of seconds.

But you may not like how it looks, of course.

Another way round it to add a link to the chain so the wheel is closer to the end of the drop out. That way, the mudguard only needs to be slightly proud of the wheel and it still slides out. It has worked for me.

Raceblades aren't comparable to full mudguards unless you DIY something from brake bridge to chainstays:

That's a part of Roadracer and tail from Roadracer as brake bridge isn't drilled on Dosnoventa to fit Roadracers.
*I know I need proper winter bike, hopefully getting pompino from a friend.

http://static.lfgss.com/attachments/78454d1388932464-img_3104.jpg

My suggestion would be tabs such as these (apologies for the mucky bike and the shit photo). These attach onto your axle, so if you want to remove the rear wheel you can remove them from the axle and the mudguard comes free. They're also more secure than p clips, and as they have two loops, on the front you can run mudguards and a rack if you have no mounts. I don't know if they still have any but I bought them from Fitzrovia Cycles.

On another point, can anyone suggest a pair of road wheels, clinchers, 10spd Campag compatible, at around or under £100, with the aesthetics of something like a planet x model b wheelset (roughly 30mm deep, black, regular spoke patterns)?

Thanks

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Picked up this frame yesterday, I threw whatever parts I had on it.

In the near futures it's getting a silver wheel set, a new seatpost, DA cranks and wider bars.

Clearance with a tyre that came out just shy of 19mm

In the more distant future it'll get red Mack hubs laced to tb14s I think, a less steep stem and nitto rb010s.

Is it B0N0R's old one?

Sure is.

drop doesn't look as mental as your other bikes?

Is it Spotter's old one?

Ftfy.

That frame has been round the block more times than eds bob Jackson!