Vintage Peugeot conversion help and tips please

i just picked up a hard to find 24mm seat post from a certain auction site. it's solved my long running pug saddle height issues!

sellers name was 'starfish-n-coffee'. shipped from poland and arrived 2 days later. seems to have lots of stock. worth a look if you need a post for your pug

You know I didn't even look to se if these were friction or not. Let me take a closer look and I'll report back.

Had a dig around in the bits boxes and found another stem and a crappy old steel drop bar which I've flopped and chopped. Ride around the block seems comfortable. I'll try them on the hills on Monday. I wonder how much I'll miss the drops on those windy mornings.

Cool looking bike, like the chopped bars, looking to do the same on my Raleigh conversion

Hey guys. Can I fit track wheels on a peugeot 103 carbolite?

Generally yes, 103 carbolite is Peugeot's way of saying low quality steel without sounding shit.

So the 120mm wheels will fit without any modification?

No modification needed, thought it worth putting spacer on the axles if the frame turn out to have 126mm spacing.

Great. Thank you so much :)

No modification needed, thought it worth putting spacer on the axles if the frame turn out to have 126mm spacing.

Would echo this, otherwise it can be tricky to keep a decent chainline.

No modification needed, thought it worth putting spacer on the axles if the frame turn out to have 126mm spacing.

Noobish question. Comparing flip-flop hub converted to 130mm and regular 130mm freewheel hub with SS freewheel. Which gives better chainline (freewheel is closer to dropout)? Or maybe there's no difference?

Chainline would be fine as the hubs body itself remain consent, you merely either add spacer on the axles or change axles for a longer one.

As for a 130mm freewheel hubs (assuming you meant the threaded variety), you may have to double check BB length to ensure a decent chainline.

The position of the freewheel relative to the dropout doesn't determine whether or not you have a good chainline: the chainline is the position of the freewheel relative to the chainring.

A good chainline, is one where they are directly in line with each other.

Both the hubs you refer to will be "converted", if used in a 130mm spaced frame: hubs which take a screw-on freewheel were intended for 126mm frames.

As Ed says, all "converted" means in this context, is that spacers and longer axles are fitted.

Depending on your cranks and bottom bracket, you may need more spacers on one side of the hub than the other, in order to get a good chainline.

Once you have that, it may then be necessary to re-dish the rear wheel so that the rim is central in the frame.

Sorry if I've formulated the question in a wrong way. I know about BB spindle length, re-dishing etc. What I meant was distance from hub center to SS freewheel in both cases (flip-flop hub and regular screw-on hub). Will it be the same?
Also, if a wheel with flip-flop hub is re-dished this makes one side unusable due to bad chainline. Correct?

You don't need to dish a track hubs.

You don't need to dish a track hubs.

Just checking if we're talking about same situation. Wheel with a Flip-flop hub in a 130mm spaced frame (and 103/107mm BB) won't need re-dishing and this will give correct chainline? And both sides will be usable?

Depends what cranks you're using: manufacturers usually quote a recommended BB width and what chainline it will give you.

42mm is common, but not absolutely certain.

How much should I be paying for one with this spec?

Frame
58cm

Handlebars
Nitto riser bars with new Brick Lane Bike grips

Brakes
Diatech Goldfinger with Shimano calipers

Front Wheel
Campagnolo Mexico 68

Rear Wheel
Velocity Deep V with Flip flop hub

Saddle
Brick lane bikes

Pedals
MKS CT-LITE

Less than £200 definitely, need more info.

hmm thats all I have. Thanks for the help

Hi All

Complete novice here, really great thread, been reading it on and off for a week and it has taught me a great deal.

Picked up a cheap Peugot, looks like a Tourmalet 1986, but the code is wrong, PE10N 60

I've stripped the parts and given it a good clean.

Here are all the parts I've taken off, I'll most likely reuse the brake levers.

Brake Levers = Weinmann
Front Derailleur = Shimano FD-TY20
Rear Derailleur = SACHS HURET - 3187
Brakes = Weinmann Type 500

My mate has a new flip flop rear wheel from a Foffa Prima 2013 sitting around, he's going to bring it round tomorrow, hopefully it will fit and the chainline wont be too wonky.

I think my BB is a french type so I am going to have make do with a 52/16 ratio, first time riding single speed, will my knees die?

Also are the brakes safe to reuse?

Thanks, been really enjoying looking at all the bikes, some great inspiration.

Sorry for the double post, couldn't figure out how to edit my previous post.

Her she is all finished (for now)

Changes

Rear Wheel = Miche Primato Flip Flop - I'm running on the smaller crank for now and the chain line is spot on.

Front Wheel = Shimano RS10

Seat = Selle San Marco Ponza

It is bit of a frankenstein job, using parts I had laying around and could pinch from friends.

I have been really lucky she rides beautifully and I have only spent £130, really happy with the result.

Two advice if you don't mind.

May be worth moving the saddle a little more forward and levelling it (if it's sore, lower it slightly).

Also, get foot retention if you intend to ride fixed with a single front brake.

Hi Ed

Any advice is really appreciated.

I've got really long arms so I assumed I need to set it as far back as it would go, I must say it does get uncomfortable (aching balls) around the 25+ mile mark.

I'll readjust it as per your advice and take it for a spin tomorrow.

I'm riding free wheel at the moment while I build up my legs and confidence, the pedals are tiny though, had bit of scare last night when I slipped.

The pedals are definitely next on my list, any suggestions?

Also I'm scratching my head as to what to do with the old components?

If you're riding freewheel, then you really do need to put a back brake on.

Any toeclip will be fine, you can get them cheap (or free) from a LBS.

Nice, clean job, especially for £130: good work!

Bin the original brake levers: those extension are dangerously ineffective, hence the nickname "suicide levers".

The brake callipers are serviceable though. Not as powerful as modern, dual pivot callipers, but with new brake pads and cables they are fine: I'm using Clarks pads and Jagwire cables.

Sure you've got a French bottom bracket? Handy cribsheets here, check the one for BB.

Gear calculator here: something between 65 and 75 gear inches is more usual than 85.5gi (52x16).

A pair of Restraps will keep your feet on your pedals: should fit your existing pedals and you can wear "ordinary" shoes.

Pedals - MKS sylvan track and some straps and clips would be ideal.