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    No trickle vents and air bricks are covered.

    Once redecorated get dehudifiers, whose responsibility are they generally landlord or tenant, it's not stipulated and clearly the previous tenants didn't have them.

  • Bring it up with the landlord, hopefully they will be decent and spring £100 for a decent dehumidifier.

    If not, decide how much of a ball ache it will arguing with them. If it makes life easier, buy one yourself and take it with you when you go.

  • 100 notes? Doable

    We were not born in a barn so doors are religiously kept closed do they still work properly?

  • Thanks for the above cheps. Doesn't appear to be an I-beam as it's apparently the same depth beneath the plaster the whole way up. Fecking thing. Quite like the tap and bolt solution. wouldn't need to go in far.

    Maybe a catnic type lintel. I've fitted curtain rails and blinds to these by drilling with a HSS drill and using self tapping screws. Alternatively drill a 6mm hole and use regular plugs and screws. 6mm rawlplugs are around 30mm long. If the plaster is a bit crumbly you could 'build' the plugs in with a bit of filler or no nails.

    Also the lintel could be U channels on their side and not an I beam.

  • No trickle vents and air bricks are covered.

    Once redecorated get dehudifiers, whose responsibility are they generally landlord or tenant, it's not stipulated and clearly the previous tenants didnt have them.

    Heat and ventilation are your friends! Uncover the air bricks and leave all internal doors open whenever possible.

  • I've bought a magnetic knife holder but don't have any choice where to put it - it'll need to go under the cupboards on a tiled section of wall. If I try to drill through the tile will they smash? Do I need a special drill bit? Once I have the holes, can I just use normal rawlplugs (sp?)?

    What about mounting it underneath a cupboard, so that the knives are horizontal?

  • Assuming that the damp is because of a problem with the property (and not because you have 1,000 kettles on the boil at any given time), then it's the landlord that should deal with it.

  • For new page

    I have a dehumidifer, in Leyton, you can borrow/buy cheapcheap.

  • Maybe a catnic type lintel. I've fitted curtain rails and blinds to these by drilling with a HSS drill and using self tapping screws. Alternatively drill a 6mm hole and use regular plugs and screws. 6mm rawlplugs are around 30mm long. If the plaster is a bit crumbly you could 'build' the plugs in with a bit of filler or no nails.

    Also the lintel could be U channels on their side and not an I beam.

    Thanks man, from the pics i've just googled this would appear to fit the bill. HSS drill it is.

  • 100 notes? Doable

    We were not born in a barn so doors are religiously kept closed do they still work properly?

    They will work to a certain extent as doors (unless they are airlocks) are not completely sealed. Best to keep the kitchen and bathroom doors ajar anyway I reckon. For about £100, you can get one that is designed for use in a small-medium sized 2-3 bedroom house/flat.

    I have a two bed flat, dehumidifier is in the front/spare room. I can even dry my clothes in that room without the damp causing a problem.

  • Assuming that the damp is because of a problem with the property (and not because you have 1,000 kettles on the boil at any given time), then it's the landlord that should deal with it.

    True, but at my age I personally would rather spend the money on the thing and take it with me than spend a month going and back and forth. Could also be a useful bargaining chip should there be any deposit deduction shenanigans at the end of the tenancy.

  • Changing a bathroom sink and cabinet, how hard on a scale of 1-10? I fancy giving it a go... pull the old one off the wall, build new one, screw it on, job done... will prob get someone more skilled to connect the waste pipe but the rest should be easy right?

  • It's very easy.

    Always handy to know where the stopcock is, mind.

  • supply connections?

    • much in favour of flexible couplings, especially if the tap spacing is different.

    Waste pipe can usually be aligned by adjusting the waste trap and is probably the last thing to do.

  • got a blocked pipe (from the shower/bath). what's the stuff I pour in it? Soda? Acid?

    Can I get it from Wickes?

  • Get it from anywhere... caustic soda crystals....

  • Changing a bathroom sink and cabinet, how hard on a scale of 1-10? I fancy giving it a go... pull the old one off the wall, build new one, screw it on, job done... will prob get someone more skilled to connect the waste pipe but the rest should be easy right?

    10 whilst the tap and waste connections are standard their position and the shapes of sinks is not so whatever you are replacing it with will not fit, you will probably find the pipes to the taps are in totally the wrong place and have seezed with gunk

  • It's very easy.

    Always handy to know where the stopcock is, mind.

    Thats the encouragement I like! Not sure about stopcock... I'm in a flat and I htink the main ones in the pavement or something and my house ones seized up. There are those little olive things on the pipes and they turn the water off to the sink so should be all good? Going ot replace the waste pipe with a copper one so will get someone with the correct tools for that (Crimsonape).

  • got a blocked pipe (from the shower/bath). what's the stuff I pour in it? Soda? Acid?

    Can I get it from Wickes?

    Caustic soda will probably work but may also remove any decorative plating from the trap.
    I buy mine as crystals from a local (Shropshire) agricultural supplier, mainly for decoking 2-stroke exhausts...read and heed all the warnings.

  • got a blocked pipe (from the shower/bath). what's the stuff I pour in it? Soda? Acid?

    Can I get it from Wickes?

    You are better off getting under the bath and removing the waste and cleaning out by hand and water. If you are using a bath as a shower the traps tend to be bigger and get blocked with a soapy build up which is extremely difficult to remove with Caustic Soda. Also CS is nasty stuff which will tend to burn you hands and any exposed skin it touches

  • thanks all, i was hoping not to have to touch any matted wads of other peoples hair, but fear i may have to.

  • Yeah CS is not very effective against hair either

  • ^^ChrisBMX,

    I have the tools and will be in all weekend based in SE16

    Adam

  • Get some oneshot down it. Sulphuric Acid almost always does the trick!

  • Cheers Adam, I've already Asked Crimson ape about it so committed to have him do it, will defo give you a shout if he is unavailable... you think its an easy task to replace plastic waste pipe with copper? it runs from the sink along a 3 meter wall then curves round into the wall.

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Home DIY

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