First Timer 80s Raleigh Conversion

I've just checked on my road bike: That's got a 50t up front and I tend to stick in the 16t on the rear when riding on the flat stuff.

According to this helpful table http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches 50x16=82.3 gear inches.

My options are either a 52 or 40 on the front, then for the fixed hub on the rear (keeping as close to 82.3 as possible) my options are:

52x16=85.5 or 52x17=80.5

OR

40x12=87.6 or 40x13=81.0

Then go slightly bigger for the freewheel side? So if I go for 52x16 fixed and 18 freewheel?

I'm currently using 52x16 freewheel which suits me, it's a slow standing start but when you're up to speed you're not pedalling like a nutter! Can't comment on fixed haven't been brave enough to flip my wheel around yet! haha

Plus if you've got a nice 52t chainring it looks really smart....imho.

Good luck mate, can't wait to see the finished product.

I'm just about to order 16T fixed, 17T freewheel :)

This is my preferred FXD/SS gear calc.

I think you'll find around 80", much to beefy: better suited to the track than the road. Around the 70" mark seems to be most people's preferred road gearing; obviously this depends on terrain, fitness etc.

On a cautionary note, running too big a gear will trash your knees; 40x15 or 52x19 would be where I start.

Running bigger chainrings and sprockets is more mechanically efficient than running the equivalent gear using smaller rings and sprockets, which will also wear more quickly.

Most people who do run both a fixed and freewheel, do seem to have the freewheel a tooth bigger: obviously easier getting up steep hills, whilst allowing you to freewheel down them, rather than pedalling like a nutter.

I run 50-18 with a 19t fw on the other side, if anything I would drop slightly lower.

Thanks for the input everyone. I've ordered as I said above 16t fixed and 17t freewheel with my 52 front. I'd read that somewhere around 70" seems to be the preferred road setting, but I live by the seaside, where it's very VERY flat. I can do 30+ miles and not climb 100ft on certain routes - and definitely not where I'm planning on taking this bike.

Next thing I'm worried about is - will it look odd with only one brake. Also - where do i put my hands? I currently spent most of my time rafting on the top of the brake hoods when on my road bike .... Inspirational pics more than welcome.

My 2 SS bikes are running 49/17 and 48/17.
48/17 is best.
You should go for an 18 with a 52...

You'll need a second brake with that freewheel anyway, fit one

If you spend most of your time on drop hoods, try some bullhorn bars, its a similar hand position, you could get a bar end brake lever if you're used to using drop bars and they look rad!

I've ordered the 16 and 17 rear cogs - If I don't get on with them, or my knees explode - then I'll go bigger. I also ordered a wheelset in silver with flip flop hub and a chain and today found a set of new single chainring bolts.

Today I finished off cleaning up the caliper in the photos above and tried cleaning up the seat post. It's cleaner, but it still looks shagged so I think that's another new part I'll need to buy myself.

I was going to start attacking the paint as well, but a lad at work pointed out that if I went down the road of powder coating, then they would acid dip the entire frame first anyway - meaning I don't have to arse about with Nitromors.

Do people bother cutting off pieces of the frame that they wont be using on their conversions? ie the rear derailleur hanger or various gear cable guides etc.

Phil721 - I like the look of those bullhorn bars with the bar end brake levers. That's another thing to think about nearer the end of the project.

Cut them off or keep them?

• I wouldn't trust a seatpost that had been subject to aggressive removal: do yourself a favour and bin it.
  
• Stop fucking about with the paint: it's fine. This was, is and always will be a "beater". Stick the money in your piggy bank for the next build.
  
• Don't fuck about with the braze-ons: all you will do is make it less versatile and it will never be whatever it is you think it will be, minus braze-ons.
  
  

You know the scrotes who have spent more on shit accessories and tacky colour-coordinated tat than the actual car is worth? Who could have spent their money on a decent motor, rather than a world of naff trying to turn a Nova 1.0l into a Golf VR6?

Build this as cheaply as possible; ride it much as possible; then build a 2.0 with a nice frame, a nice paintjob and quality components using what you have learned from 1.0.

Do what you want on that frame...

A quick risk / benefit analysis on the chain stay bridge removal = keep it!

What size BB did you end up getting? 68 X103 or 107mm. I'm curious cause I'm doing the same project on my early 90's Raleigh and I'm also using the stock crank and 40 tooth chain ring. Wanting to get the best chain line possible.
Tony..

BTW if you are repainting I would cut and dress the frame lugs but leave the inner frame joint down by the crank shell intact.
Tony..

• I wouldn't trust a seatpost that had been subject to aggressive removal: do yourself a favour and bin it.
  
  

Build this as cheaply as possible; ride it much as possible; then build a 2.0 with a nice frame, a nice paintjob and quality components using what you have learned from 1.0.

It'll be cheap still - don't panic. And yeah definitely
Ordering a new seat post. Cleaning it up has revealed I need a 27.0 diameter post - so that's one benefit.

Do what you want on that frame...

A quick risk / benefit analysis on the chain stay bridge removal = keep it!

The chain stay bridge isn't actually a bridge - it's only attached to one side of the frame so can't be offering any structural support.

What size BB did you end up getting? 68 X103 or 107mm. I'm curious cause I'm doing the same project on my early 90's Raleigh and I'm also using the stock crank and 40 tooth chain ring. Wanting to get the best chain line possible.
Tony..

The one recommended to me by the bike shop measures 68x113mm

The chain stay bridge isn't actually a bridge - it's only attached to one side of the frame so can't be offering any structural support.

The main reason for leaving alone was that you might 'hole' one or both stays during removal.
At least that risk's been halved, then!

The main reason for leaving alone was that you might 'hole' one or both stays during removal.
At least that risk's been halved, then!

You've obviously seen me using a Dremel before. You make a valid case - it stays!

Leave all the brazeons. If you build a nicer fixed gear one day you might want to build this one up as a winter/shopper/rainyday/tourer/thing and wish you'd left all that stuff in tact.

OK so IF I leave them all as they are - is there any way to make them look less ugly?

Seen a post (possibly on this very forum) where someone used a pair of Campagnolo record cable stop adjusters on the two locating nubs where the gear shifters were on the down tube.

Forget about it. It'll look sillier and draw attention to it if you attempt to hide them. Your frame looks fine as it stands.
Save time/pennies for parts you need to get it rideable

Or something like this: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/problem-solvers-shifter-boss-covers-prod24616/

Forget about it. It'll look sillier and draw attention to it if you attempt to hide them. Your frame looks fine as it stands.
Save time/pennies for parts you need to get it rideable

I've spent all my pennies allocated for this month and filling in the time while I wait for the parts to turn up, by planning what I'll spunk next months cash on.

Or something like this: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/problem-solvers-shifter-boss-covers-prod24616/

20 quid on such beater frippery does not compute.
Get the dremmel out... or better leave them be.