-
• #82577
This really is fantastic. Great frame, awesome components and a really individual bike. Nice work.
Seriously though, when/if you get bored of this, please let me know. So rad, and I got the full mapei kit to go with it (;
I think it may be one of my favourite forum bikes ever (there I said it!)
All of this except the full mapei kit. Really done it nicely. Are they zipp course bars as well?.....
Frame really is tight man!
-
• #82578
Tommmmm, wouldn't it just be easier to get it reamed to 27.2?
-
• #82579
how do you find the weight on the forks? affects handling?
Not really, no. If I load it unevenly, it may provoke some shimmying. Other than that its still nice and fast. Nothing like how the handling of my old RIH turned massively slow after fitting a front rack.
-
• #82580
Tommmmm, wouldn't it just be easier to get it reamed to 27.2?
That's the plan, it's just finding the time to do it.
-
• #82581
Oh, fair enough, lbs with muchos donuts and a beg?
-
• #82582
It's getting to my LBS that I'm struggling to find time for
-
• #82583
That's the plan, it's just finding the time to do it.
you ain't got time fo' finding time to do it?
-
• #82584
ain't nobody got time fo' finding time to do dat
ftfy
-
• #82585
Years ago I had a seatpost like that, with a 2-3" oblong cutout on both sides. Never knew what it was for, but it must have been for this or something similar. Mind you, the bottom inch or so was intact, so you'd still have to loosen the cable in order to remove the seatpost. Then again, how often do you do that?
and that would serve to tighten the seatpost and not squeeze the tube, preventing the movement of the cable .... i guess
-
• #82586
Internal cable routing - But mine cable housing dosen't go there. Is the housing too thick or what? I have never been faced thinkind of problem with my other frames with internal cable routing. -
• #82587
is only the inner meant to go down there?
-
• #82588
?.
.E.T. phone home
-
• #82589
i think there are stepped ferrules like sometimes needed for the guides on the chainstay which will fit the hole in the tube on the one end and the brake cable on the other.. have a rummage through your lbs's spare parts drawer..
-
• #82590
^ Like this:
-
• #82591
^ Sceptical.
stepped ferrules mean the bare cable inner will scrape on the inside where the 2 tubes meet - which seems like a bad idea to me.
When I was a kid in the 80's brake cables were not quite so fat, more like about 4.5mm rather than the 5mm that's typical now
One thing you might want to try is a gear cable outer - I think they may be a bit thinner.
If you do decide to go down the "bare cable in the frame" route, you may well find that a V-brake noodle's a better idea than one of those stepped ferrules.Then again I may just be talking bollocks (it's not unknown)
-
• #82592
New kid on the block.
Superia Ishiwata 022, Dura Ace 10 mm pitch, Sakae Ringyo
59 cm c-t -
• #82593
phoooooaaaaarrrrrr harrie. great! are those too those sr superlight components like the milled stem and seatpost? really nice alternative build!
-
• #82594
Thanks, Ruud!
Stem = Super Light
Post = Extra Super Light
Bars = Road Custom (couldn't find a World Custom, Super Light or Royal in my size, for reasonable money, in time. May be changed in future).
Also pedals are "just" new MKS Sylvan Pista with MKS clips, but fully in line with what bike manufacturers used to do 35 years ago with their Dura Ace equipped bikes.http://progettopistavintage.blogspot.nl/2013/09/superia-track-ready.html
-
• #82595
swell :)
-
• #82596
I guess it goes without saying, but that's lovely. Is that original paint? There seem to be hardly any marks on the track ends.
-
• #82597
Don't know if it is original paint, but it's very well possible.
In close-up you can se that it's not new.
But I'm thinking about a respray in future with the same colours and repro decals. -
• #82598
Thanks for the stepped ferrule info. After all this happend...
...Then taking some paint off and next heating the cable routing off:
...Then the other side and pulling it off with pliers.
Cable routing taked off:
With heating I used this and it worked well:
And maybe in the weeked I will filed those and clean up. Then braze on the new 7mm brass pipe on.
-
• #82599
^ why did you do this?
-
• #82600
face
palm
epic
I don't think so, there's no ledge or anything implying that a shim should be fitting flush there. Plus the seat cluster and clamp 'ears' are exactly the same as my other Donohue bike which takes a 27.2mm post. I think it is just slightly deformed or rough on the inside. there is a hole on the inside of the seat tube where the top tube joins, and the post seems to be being caught on the upper edge of that.
The 27mm post you can rock back and forth/side to side when it's in the seat tube, but the other doesn't want to go in. I would try it with another seatpost in case that's where the problem is, but the only other one I have to hand is a nice Thomson one.