Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

maybe try brick lane bikes they were the importers for a while and may have back stock

Cheers, will do.

Good information on this thread, but having read some of the technical info I'm a bit scared to build my first wheels just yet. Going to buy a handbuilt set.

Can you wheel boffins help me with a quick question? I've been searching for half an hour!

Are there any differences between the DP18 Miche set offered by planet x:
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/WPWEIDP18/weinmann_dp18_on_fixed_free_miche_pr1mato_track_wheelset

And the ones offered by V-Sprint: http://www.v-sprintwheels.com/pages/track-wheels-custom.html

I assume the price difference even with forum discount is due to Planet-X having a better economy of scale? Or am I missing the point? Is Varno worth paying more for, better build spokes etc.

Hope this is the right place, not a complete noob just lost my old login. Have tried a search but then again can't even find my glasses on my face half the time.

varno's are handbuilt i'm pretty sure the planet-x ones will be machine built.

Varno gives you a lot more choice, he won't insist on you choosing from whatever's already in stock.

Ahh got it, thanks. I don't mind paying the extra for handbuilt.

Well, got myself into a bit of bother initially but I think I've managed to lace this up all correctly in the end. Does this look right?

Though I am one cunting hole out on the valve hole/hub logo alignment. FFS.

could be just perspective playing tricks on me, but have you laced the near side 3 cross and the far side 2 cross?

Think it's just the picture, both 3 cross in reality.

Hi chaps...great thread with some interesting banter...Yes all our wheels UK handbuilt from handpicked products..we give you plenty of flexibilty when it comes to bespoke requests..ie one wheel machined, radial or not etc etc...Be careful when spending your hard earned dosh with carbon rims, believe me we've "been there".. You wont get the tension on a cheaper rim given carbon quality and depth of recess also ensuring a compatible nipple which can be turned with damaging the rim, using washers etc.. All ours are here www.v-sprintwheels.com.

General questions for any wheelsmiths out there:

Are Sapim Laser really worth the extra dosh than Race? I'd love this set to be light ish, but I gather they may be hard to build without damage. I guess I could buy a couple spare of each length.

Also: I'm using non-eyeletted rims, mavic CXP10. Do I need washers?

Are Sapim Laser really worth the extra dosh than Race?

No. If you want to reduce your wheel stiffness by 30%, just use 30% fewer Race and enjoy the aero benefit of a lower spoke count.

Need a help in choosing the right spoke length pls. I know spokes have tolerance of +/- 1mm but in a case of shallow rims like I have (Mavic Pista) it's been recommended to round down.

However my calculated spoke length is 291.4mm. CRC only sells even size so I can go either 292mm or 290mm. And the spoke nipple is 12mm. Should I round up or down?

Down. Always down. Having spokes bottom out in the nipples is A Bad Thing.

but is 1.4mm down not too short for enough threading?

Might make it a pain in the arse to get the last few nipples threaded onto the spokes, but you should still have plenty of thread engaged when you finish.

Round to the nearest spoke size if it's less than a mm from your calculated length. I'd go 292.

but is 1.4mm down not too short for enough threading?

No, it's fine. You're dropping from 5 thread diameters engaged to just over 4. Anything over 2 is mostly for adjustment rather than final strength of the threaded connection. You might see a couple of turns of thread poking out of the bottom of the nipple when they are finished, but the other way round means your wheel build will never be finished.

Thanks guys. Will round down!

I think the wheelbuilding section on this could be very usefull to people, if it hasnt been posted already

http://home.fuse.net/pieper/sutherland's%20handbook%20for%20bicycle%20mechanics.pdf

Might be the right thread - I have no idea what I need to do to replace the wheels on my road bike - a 2007 Spesh Allez 9 speed - but replace them I must as they are both creaky and broken and heavy.

If I were to order some new wheels that specified 9-speed compatibiltiy, like these Ultegera ones they are flogging on Ribble for cheap at the moment, with a new 9-speed cassette to boot, would I need any special tools to fit them? Would they fit? Would there be a better choice for that price point?

I use the bike mainly for commuting on London's poxy roads and pootling around Kent/South London country-ish and suburban roads. So they need to be strong enough to take a pothole or ten.

6700 might be a bit too nice, I'd probably go WH-R501 for cheap, they will be a tad stronger thanks to the extra spokes and the rims are a bit more burly too.

£220 would be enough for hand built Mavic A319 on Shimano 105 hubs, which would be even better.

The only tool you'll need is a cassette lockring tool.

Okay, so if I want hand-built wheels, can anyone recommend anywhere near Herne Hill that will do that?

arup's wheel building service

http://www.yogarup.com/wheels/

provide him with wheels and rims and he'll do the rest