Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

You are Jeremy Beadle AICMFP

There is a trick to track dropounts,

Pull the wheel backwards out of the dropouts. You need the bike in the little ring/smaller cog, to do this. Then just pull the chain off the cassette and around the QR. Super simple and quick/easy.

Would put the price of the G3 hub at ~£580 in the UK I think.

£700 @ Cyclepowermeters now so see what Wiggle et al. do on discounts from that

Riken is now fitted:

http://www.zen118609.zen.co.uk/riken.jpg

Should get a chance to test it tomorrow - off to nip round the Furkapass and the Grimselpass by car today.

£700 @ Cyclepowermeters now so see what Wiggle et al. do on discounts from that

Already down to £600:

http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/powertap-pro-hub-812-p.asp

Thats the Pro not the G3. Wiggle has G3 for £616 if you got platinum or BC discount

Dammit -Wiggle has 25% off the track version too

Thats the Pro not the G3. Wiggle has G3 for £616 if you got platinum or BC discount

Dammit -Wiggle has 25% off the track version too

Got it. Much diff between the pro and the G3? Haven't looked at PTs for a whole so a bit out in the cold.

Lighter and smaller flanges with better spacing for wheelbuilding.

Thats the Pro not the G3. Wiggle has G3 for £616 if you got platinum or BC discount

Dammit -Wiggle has 25% off the track version too

£686.25 for the Powertap Pro Track.

£700 by the time you've built the wheel, bought a sprocket etc.

You must be using cheap rims, spokes and sprockets.

£630 at Evans, so you would have a chance of a complete wheel for £700

Already got the wheel- would be rebuilding rather than buying the rim.

Been quite happy with my powercal. I have the 3s average displayed. It could do with a little more, but the next option is 10s. But its realtime usuage isnt meant to be great. I also have to add around 25 - 30w to the reading. But I only paid £7 more than I would have paid for a standard HR belt, and I'm just a geeky MAMIL so it does a very decent job IMHO.

One thing I do like to have is TSS. Been using this a lot on the trainer. I kinda hoped with the average results with powercal being so good. I could log TSS from outdoor rides too. But it seems to give far too high a figure. I've put this down to the bigger fluctuations, which lead to bigger IFs.

Just how bonkers is a TSS of 316. For a 55 mile ride, including 6000ft of assent, and a fast 15 mile tempo effort home?

If the power readings look good then that suggests that your FTP is set wrong.

If that 55 miles took three hours (say) then a TSS of 316 would indicate that you were over your FTP for the whole period.

Are you taking TSS from your Bryton? If so have a look and see if there is somewhere to configure your FTP in there.

You must be using cheap rims, spokes and sprockets.

£630 at Evans, so you would have a chance of a complete wheel for £700

That link works now, good spot.

Sadly I have to insure the car this month.

However- these new lower prices are here to stay are they not?

Are you taking TSS from your Bryton? If so have a look and see if there is somewhere to configure your FTP in there.

I bought the 910xt.

The Brytons been sold.

Stood in the store with a 510 edge in my hand, thinking I could buy a separate running watch, as I wanted the big screen. Then the sales guy pointed out the 310xt was £100 cheaper on offer, and handed me one.

My gut said 910xt.

It was right. The sceen may be small. But its of a really good quality. Shows my 4 main fields really clearly, and the solid mount and scroll buttons, make checking other suff a breeze. Did a nice run with it on Sunday. Which confirmed my chioce. I like the altometer, and thats a high end feature in a running watch.

If the power readings look good then that suggests that your FTP is set wrong.

If that 55 miles took three hours (say) then a TSS of 316 would indicate that you were over your FTP for the whole period.

FTP is set to my pre-hols 266 watts. The power average is probably OK, if 25 - 30 watts low as usual. But it has massive spikes. Which I would have though make for a big IF. Did a slow assent to the top of trollstigen (the bit we drove). Then rode up it 1 and 1/2 times. So it wasnt an easy day.

Another thing. With it being HR based. I have a stomache issue, which is stopping me hydrate. I was even also very violently sick at one point. My HR was through the roof for what I would usually consider maintainable efforts. Not sure if this effects it. I guess it should.

Avg Power:193 W (so 215w corrected I guess)
Max Power:1,595 W (I wish)
Normalized Power (NP):219w (240w sounds fair)
Intensity Factor (IF):0.822 (nope. not for that length of time. I'd have cried)
Training Stress Score (TSS):316.3 (dodgey)

This all points to me getting a proper PM I realise. But I need a new right shifter first :(

Right, I finally got time to fit and have a (quick) test of my Riken power meter at the weekend. Nothing to report fitting it - it's a GXP crankset - and I used the bottom-bracket mounted magnet. It paired up with my Edge 800 perfectly, and calibration was also easy from the Garmin.

The data output seems sensible and in line with what I'd expect from my Powertap wheel. The last four minutes of Sunday's climb shows this:

http://www.zen118609.zen.co.uk/powerdata.jpg

Looks about right. The power drops off during the flat bit before the final ramp, as I start slacking, then heads up to where it previously was, and then ramps up as the end as I get on the pedals for the final ramp, before dawdling to a halt.

Can't say how waterproof/rain-resistant the Riken is. No doubt that will change in due course.

So PowerTap G3s.....?

I have a mate ordering the same rims as I recently built up. He needs hubs, spokes etc. So its possible we might do a swap of his new rims + money, for my complete wheels. I have a front hub sitting around. So I could then put the money towards a Powertap, and build myself a new set.

These PowerTap G3s. ANything I should consider?

I think the flange spacing and sizes on the G3 make them easier to build up than the older Powertap hubs, but that's not necessarily saying much. My SL+ hub was a total swine to build, given that the DS spokes are almost vertical, with the result that the NDS spokes are at less than half the spoke tension of the DS spokes. In hindsight I should've probably gone 2x on the NDS and 1x on the DS, although the 2x on both seems OK now it's settled in a bit. I don't know if that still applies to the G3 though, with their different geometry.

Hmmm, not much help at all that really...

If you can buy them for the US price they've convincingly won the value argument.

^ what danstuff said; the Pro is a bit of a nightmare even with a 32h CXP33 rim

The track conversion of the Pro- likely to be a bitch to lace to an 88mm rim?

the rim is a 56mm deep one. So might be better.

It's the dish that is the problem so track version should be nothing like it.

Flanges would be way more centred.

The G3-track is now on the Powertap site, $989, which if directly translated would be £630.

lol.

It's the dish that is the problem so track version should be nothing like it.

Flanges would be way more centred.
think they are still asymmetrical but obviously not as extreme as the road hub.