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I'm building the wheels for other people who have entrusted me with their shiny new purchase. Even if they say they don't mind a few greasy smears, they do mind. If they were my own wheels I wouldn't care so much and probably wouldn't buy shiny rims in the first place. I don't even clean my bike. Well, maybe once or twice a year.
Sure, I appreciate that. If I'd got someone else to build my wheels, I wouldn't want forensic evidence of their identity all over them. Just can't see why a quick wipe down with a solvent of your choice wouldn't solve the issue. Just in case I'm unintentionally coming across as an aggressive wally (again), my real reason for asking is to make sure I'm not doing something horribly wrong in my wheelbuilding with imminent wheel exploding consequences.
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Grease or oil will wipe off with solvent, finger prints on polished aluminium will oxidise the surface (as will air, but the acids in skin secretions accelerate it), so they would need to be polished off, and matching the sheen of the factory polishing will be a PITA.
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I have a pair of tubular rims, laced to old Campagnolo Record hubs (the ones with the oil hole).
I would like to switch these over to clincher rims, but I have no idea where to start, or what I'd need.
I've trued wheels before, but never built them from scratch.
I "think" I'll need:
- New clincher rims
- New spokes?
- Rim tape
Tools:
- spoke tensioner tool
- oil
- truing stand? (would it be possible to use my front brake for this? (I only have a front brake).
Or... would you recommend taking it to my LBS and getting it done? If so, how much should I expect it to cost?
Any forseeable issues with switching these hubs from tubs to clinchers? (Not sure if hubs need to be specific to a certain type of rim).
- New clincher rims
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I have a pair of tubular rims, laced to old Campagnolo Record hubs (the ones with the oil hole).
I would like to switch these over to clincher rims, but I have no idea where to start, or what I'd need.
Plenty of videos online to give you an idea of the effort involved. If you want it done soonish, probably better to pony up than DIY. Maybe talk to Arup?
If it's more of a project: decide what rims and lacing pattern you want, do the spoke calcs and buy the stuff. A stand, tension meter and a dishing tool will come in handy but you can do it on feel if you want. The results may not be so good the first time though...
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I've been having informal "open sessions" where you can come and do your build alongside me when I have a few sets to build. Could be a day or half a day. You can use the tools and ask for tips but I won't take you through the process as in a proper teaching session. Get in touch to arrange a time i.e. when I have lots of builds on and when you're free. No charge for this but donations of cake, biscuits, crisps etc are more than welcome.
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I've been having informal "open sessions" where you can come and do your build alongside me when I have a few sets to build. Could be a day or half a day. You can use the tools and ask for tips but I won't take you through the process as in a proper teaching session. Get in touch to arrange a time i.e. when I have lots of builds on and when you're free. No charge for this but donations of cake, biscuits, crisps etc are more than welcome.
That sounds awesome, you're very kind to offer these sessions.
I'm currently travelling, but will be back in London early August, so I'll try to get in touch about wheelbuilding then.
In the meantime, where is a good place to shop for rims in the UK/London area? (wide variety, decent prices). Edit: Just saw your website, and will be checking those sites out.
Cheers, and thanks to Howard for the recommendations & suggestions too.
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Does anyone here have experience with the Sapim spoke tensiometer? I've been using the Park TM-1 for years but want to get a bit more precise. I've also read that the calibration can drift a bit on the TM-1. I'm also considering the Wheel Fanatyk digital one. I've read that the DT one is very good but think it's a bit overpriced.
What I'm planning to do with higher spec wheels is to give the client a tension map. Then obviously add it to the massive data cloud.
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You probably want the "Road wheel recommendations" thread, then come back here if you decide to roll your own and need help
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try arup's website he keep a data base of spoke lengths for a variety of different combinations of hub / rims
also possibly the wheelbuilding thread has some previously attempted wheels builds and the measurements required.
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hub measurements
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and if none of that works there is always this
showing you the exact bits to measure so you can check your measurements
you can see my hands doing an excellent job in these video's -
try this one: http://leonard.io/edd/ best spoke calculator imo in terms of ease of use and 90% of the time it has the stuff you need, if not you can add in the dimensions, that can be found here:
http://www.halowheels.com/products/part/HUHATF2S
http://www.halowheels.com/products/part/HUHATD2S
it has open sport rims in its database and you can just enter measurements for the hub -
Halo/System X/Formula/Iro/Charge/Joytech/Ambrosio
I'm not going to split them out, but that list contains at least 3 different hubs
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I don't know who makes the hubs for Halo, but they are not the same design as either the common Novatec or Formula OEM models, which are in turn different from one another.
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Official Mavic dimension for "spoke support diameter" is 606mm, to which most people add 3mm to get ERD as understood by everybody else, so 609mm. Some people have also used values from 607 to 611, there's even a dedicated LFGSS thread!
I'd incline towards 608mm, which will get your spoke ends to the nipple head but not quite to the base of the driver slot (if you have one - I also incline towards hex nipples unless there's a good reason not to use them), which is plenty of thread engagement.
Brommers
gbj_tester
davidxapple
Howard
arup
eBasta
Hubs
dicki
noBlakes
dubtap
colm-
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Just broke a DT Swiss nipple on an Espesso deep section rim. Torque was getting very high. The only way I can see of removing the broken half is to loosen off all the others. Think I'll put some of that TF2 grease between nipple and rim or I won't get the tensions high enough. Can't remember the last time I worked on a wheel where the nipples were so hard to turn. Excluding seized or threadlocked ones.