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not sure if archetypes are tubeless ready.. know for sure though, that stan ironcross rims are. have a look, they're lighter and less forum-trendy too
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not sure if archetypes are tubeless ready.. know for sure though, that stan ironcross rims are. have a look, they're lighter and less forum-trendy too
Iron Cross look good but aren't rim brake friendly unfortunately.
American made A23 are tubeless ready too
I prefer the shape of the Archetype.
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this is true, sorry for some reason I thought it is going to be a sled.
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By going tubeless you'll be limiting your tyre options as road tubeless tyres aren't common yet .. and I'm sure I read somewhere you can't just 'ghetto' clincher road tyres like you can MTB tyres because of the extra air pressure needed lifting the bead.
I don't see how I'm limiting myself, really. Until there are more tubeless tyres on the market, I can run standard tyre/tube. When tubeless tyres are more prevalent, I can put them on. I was just wondering if anyone had had any success doing it yet.
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Yeah I read that a while back. Sounds like he wrote it to convince himself. The best bit was where he admits tubeless stuff adds weight, rolling resistance and complexity. Which is fine when you have an obvious upside. Doesn't look like there's an obvious upside to road tubeless yet, though.
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"One of the biggest advantages of tubeless setups over conventional clinchers is their resistance to both pinch flats and punctures" is his main upside. Stiffer/stronger rims is a bonus.
I think I'll stick with tubes for now but there are some advantages if you're less concerned with performance and more concerned with not stopping for repairs. Maybe an option for a low maintenance commuter setup?
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No tube at all means they still more resistant to p_nct_res.
A big failure with a tubeless can be sorted by carrying a spare tube, vs carrying a spare tubular that then has to be nursed around corners?
Installation: they're more fiddly than clinchers but less fiddly than tubs.
No idea what they cost - that might be a factor?
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I don't know if a tubular would be more or less resistant to a p_nctr than a tubeless tyre, I was thinking that the sealant would essentially equal that up.
They're both much more resistant to pinch flats than a clincher+tube.
In terms of nursing round corners and fiddle- installing a tub with tape is less bother than fitting a clincher can be.
Cost- that's going to be a factor as tubs are generally more than boggo tyres, although how much would you spend on the sealant, special valves, sealing rim tape and so on?
I may be doing P-R again next year, so this is more than an academic question for me- four p_nct_r_s last time, two from repair failure and two pinch flats.
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No. They don't rely on a thin piece of rubber or latex to hold air they must be more resistant than tubes and tubulars.
Probably.
No. Fitting a clincher is easier than fitting a new tub and unless you're blowing them up with lung power alone there's no risk of rolling them off like a tub.
P-R - ride on the road crown, not in the gutters and use more air than you did last time.
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Why were you running them at 120psi? I'm heavier than you and ran 80-90psi and had one puncture from a detour into the gutter where i picked up a thorn.
When did I leave Aus? 2005. I never used tape. I thought you glued your tubs so how do you fit the tape? Over the glue? Does that mean you carry the tape as well as the tub? I find it highly unlikely that you'd be faster than me swapping a clincher if you were on tubs.
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The tape is double sided, you wrap a length round the rim leaving the valve hole uncovered, then peal back the backing tape for ~3 inches either side of said hole.
Slide the tub on, give it a couple of strokes of the pump just so it's round, then pull the backing tape off whilst keeping the tyre centred.
It's similar too, but not the same as, sliding your thumbs round a clincher to seat it in the bead after changing a tube- but without the (sometimes) requirement to use a tyre lever+swearing to get the last bit of bead over, and takes around the same time.
You could certainly change a loose clincher faster, but a tight one would be slower.
I've never had to change one out on the road- the sealant has always sorted things out, so I can't give a view on that.
I used to carry a spare tub+cut to length tape, but now I just carry a tin of sealant for that bike.
When going into the countryside I still take a spare pre-glued tub (as that bike doesn't use tape).
I was running at 120 PSI to avoid pinch flats- that worked well!
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Archetypes tubeless?
Posted by
Yo, has anyone got Archetypes and set them up tubeless? I'm gonna get a set for my new wheel build and was thinking tubeless could be a good shout as it works so well on my MTB.